You will not catch it from me Nick! I've had the same happen with the tin but and it never missed a beat!

 

Just please check the fuel pressure.
20 cranking and 55 or more running.

If you can route the gauge out so you can drive with it.I bet under wot the pressure falls on its face.

 

Just curious... will this cause bucking? I only ask as when my pump completely failed a while back with 0 psi, I could try to hammer it and it wouldn't buck...just act a little sluggish. I was just curious.

I can def see it falling on its face and bucking if it was going 55 to 0 instantaneously.

 

Hey boys, so I got the truck turned around in the driveway and got the battery tender on it to prep for some testing. Getting ready to get out there and pull some valve covers to investigate. Interestingly enough, nossliw, I installed a stancor a few years back. Haven't had a problem with it yet. However, I don't drive the truck all the time and my alarm will drain the batts down to about 12.1-12.2v if I don't drive it for like a month. With old glow plugs in there and a beefy stancor relay, it's definitely not beyond reason that the VCG and/or UVCHs are fried with the low volt and high resistance of old plugs situation (makes for too much amp draw). So I will go ahead and check those electrical components and test the glow plugs for resistance to start.

I'm fixin to install my new AE on my work computer here in a few minutes, so I'll be able to do a buzz test cold and then again warm and also a cct for both cold and warm. Although it's about 90* here, so it won't really be a cold test, but we get the idea. Hopefully it will just be VCG and UVCHs. Then I can replace all of those for piece of mind and only a couple hundred bucks, and go ahead and replace glow plugs too. And then get some goodies from Riffraff while I'm at it . Then hold off until 200k and think about injectors and a new HPOP and some sensors. Thanks for the help thus far gents, great suggestions. I'll get back on here and let yall know what I find and what I go with.

 

There is no cold CCT. EOT must be at least 160F to run a CCT. So when you get an error message trying a CCT on a cold engine, it's not really an "error", it's doing exactly what it's supposed to.

 

Now that you mention it madpogue, I realize I completely spaced that fact. It's been about five years since I've had access to anything more than a simple code reader. I'm going to have fun trying to learn how to run AE here in a few. Thanks for the note.

 

A periodically sticking check valve in the pump could. Its a long shot bit the low power sure lends bit to be something I would check.you know how these darn stock pumps pulsate.just a small malfunction I would think could really magnify the natural tendency.
I just hate the stock system.I don't trust it and IMO it should be converted very early in any mods and if a guy wants to never have a dependable non leaking rig its a must.

 

You listed a big batch of pricey parts up there a few posts back! I apologize if it was mentioned prior, but make sure and get your seal(s) changed on the case breather there on the drivers side VC, that's where any oil that ever shows up on the drivers side rail usually comes from on mine, Jay

 

Well guys, it looks like I've fixed the problem (might be premature). Replaced glow plugs, UVHCs, VCGs, and one valve cover pigtail that was burnt. Fired right up and drove like a champ for an entire heat cycle (up to 195* engine oil temp). Freeway, back roads, stop and go, idling, all good so far.

Two questions come to mind now. The valve cover connections on the outside of the gasket are loose, like I can wiggle the connectors around more than 1/8". I bought motorcraft valve cover gaskets from Riffraff, so I know it's not like a Dorman issue. Is this normal? I don't remember the old connections being that loose. Also, the passenger side valve cover is leaking right behind the dipstick so I'll have to pull and reseat it tomorrow and see if I can't get it to stop. Is this a normal thing? I know it was a PITA to get the valve cover and the gasket to line up while I was putting the bolts in...

Other than that, thanks for the help and ideas of what to check guys, helpful as always. Oh, and quick tip for anybody doing valve cover connector pigtails... I tinned the wires with solder, and then stuffed them into non-insulated crimp connectors, crimped them as round as I could, and then soldered the connectors and wires together and put heat shrink on them. It's way easier to do that than to try screwing around with soldering two wires together and hoping the solder connection is good... Not to mention it's kind of a PITA to get a soldering iron, your hands and eyeballs, both wires, and solder into the same workspace when you're working on that harness. Sheesh.

 

No, the loose connections and leaking are not normal issues. Are the seals on the connectors good? If the connections are loose, moisture and debris could enter the connectors, and that would be bad.

 

x2, you need to figure out what's going on there.