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This is one of my front fenders. It has a square hole on the back end. My problem is, I don't know if the steel is simply rotten away or if there must be a hole (for the running boards or whatever). Has anyone a picture of a fender in good shape? The truck is a 1940 1.5 ton with the headlights on top of the fender.
That's rotted away. There should be 3 bolt holes to attach to the running boards. I have 2 fenders with good bottoms from a '39 1 1/2 ton. The upper parts are all smashed and welded on, but good bottoms. You might need these. I haven't looked at them for years and they are outside. I will look at them today at some point.
The bottoms where yours are bad are actually quite good on mine. Still some original blue paint. The rest of the fenders are junk. I could cut off last 6" and send if you need them.
Maybe I can hit them with a cup brush on my angle grinder this afternoon for a better look before we proceed. I know they are from a '39 one ton. From what I know, they are the same. Tonners always used the 1 1/2 ton size fenders, and I think '38-'41 are the same.
That's great that you can help him out Gary.
This is why this Forum is so great. Guys like you.
Thanks. Still working on my Seattle trip. Will let
ya know when I know. Hope its soon as I hate to
fly in the winter. Had a few close calls in Sitka.
That's great that you can help him out Gary.
This is why this Forum is so great. Guys like you.
Thanks. Still working on my Seattle trip. Will let
ya know when I know. Hope its soon as I hate to
fly in the winter. Had a few close calls in Sitka.
I don't blame you on the flying up there. There is a true flathead guru near here that has run a business for many years called Tatom's custom engines. He lived and flew in Alaska for many years. This story I heard from a friend of his and was later confirmed by Dave himself. So he's flying along the coast in a typical bush plane with wheels when he loses power and has to find a place to land. It was low tide so he chose a suitable mudlats and brought it in successfully. Well not content with letting the incoming tide ruin his plane he radios a friend with a powerful small plane. This pilot comes in and lands. They pull the doors off Dave;s plane and rig up a tow line using a seat belt for a quick release mechanism. Pilot takes off with Dave in tow and they both become airborne. At appropriate distance from airfied, Dave pulls the seatbelt buckle 'latch' and glides in for a nice unpowered landing. He had some photos of the event on his shop wall. Ok, now back to Herman's fenders. Still debating how much metal to save. The bigger the piece, the more the shipping. I was not able to make the post office yesterday with work schedule, but today I have scheduled to be near the post office to get a couple sizes of flat rate boxes. Herman, can I get a number in inches how high up the fender you need? It would be a shame to be 1/2" short just to fit into the smaller box. The last photo shows how bad the fronts of the fenders are. This is a perfect use for them.
I'm thinking the best way to measure might be to hook to the front edge of the fender and wrap the tape measure around the crown to where I cut it off. You don't have much to hook to at the bottom.
very difficult to measure. First I tried to measure the hole in the fender up to the point where enough metal is present for welding:
Right fender: 7.9 inch
Left fender: 10 inch
Then I measured the long way from the good front end along the arc of the fender (see pic):
Right fender: 83.8 inch
Left fender: 82.6 inch
I can't say what is more accurate. One inch is missing, when you compare both methods.
Might have to give you some extra. Is a plain old cardboard box a lot more expensive than a flat rate postal box? I have the two biggest boxes here but I'm not seeing two fender sections fitting into them....
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