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I would get the coolant drained out. The best way to keep the coolant from running down the up pipe (while koeo) and filling the pass ex manifold and finding its way into an open exhaust valve,,, is to not have coolant in it. When they come in with this failure,, and I can't get to it ASAP,, I will drain the coolant,, and run the truck for a min or 2 with no coolant. That ensures you will be able to start it without pulling glow plugs after repair. I say this because when I pull 04-07 glow plugs,, I plan on buying new glow plugs and harnesses. Sometimes they are stubborn on removal.
Of course,, it might be too late for the coolant drain to keep from hydro locking since this original post was days ago.
I've had multiple hydro locked trucks in and haven't had one yet that needed the engine torn down due to a bent rod. Now if we are talking about a 6.4,,, that's a different ball game. Lol
Your very welcome. Not sure how close he is to you but that is where I told
him to take it if he wants a shop to do the work.
On other notes. I am bummed with the turn of events and won't be able to
make it this year. I even had the $$ for the fuel stashed away. The MRI this Friday
does not help timing at all. I will try again next year. Who knows I may just hit the
road latter this summer and drop in.
Minor update, no coolant in the cylinders.
Also before all this happened I use to get some puking when I pulled trailer, I thought I neede head gaskets and studs, but is it possible that it was my egr and oil cooler causing this?
If I decide to do both coolers and head gaskets and studs do I have to still do the oil cooler after I run it like I was told before? I really want this fixed right the first time!
I'll repeat the best plan.
If you need a flush it better to leave the old oil cooler in for a while
to act as a filter and grab all the crap that will come loose after.
You don't want that stuff in the new oil cooler.
The one exception to this is if you have a ruptured oil cooler. Then it's
a BIG mess but repairable.
It's tore down and the EGR cooler is leaking. So I have decided to do the delete, is there anything wrong with XDP kit with the Ford oil cooler? Also this had green antifreeze in it when I bought it, what should I put in it when I put this back together?
Last edited by Dutter65; Jun 19, 2015 at 09:25 PM.
Reason: Added
The green should be water only flushed till you
get it out then Ford Gold or one of the ELC types
that meet the correct standard.
The last time I did a change it was from gold to the Rotella ELC
The stuff is red.
One way to deal with the cooler is to stealth delete them. Have someone
weld up both ends and then put the cooler back in. No one will know by
looking that it's sealed up. The only down side is your going to need a tune
to keep the CEL light from lighting up with the 2006 year.
My 05 is just deleted but stealth delete and tuner cost a little more but it is well worth it, grab your self some nice economy, tow and maybe power tunes and you will think your in heaven!
Yes you could weld up both ends of your old cooler and hope it doesn't leak but I personally would rather eliminate the cooler and the hose that can leak and I'd go with the kit above that eliminates all that.
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