I finally got the tools/parts that I've been waiting for. So I got the ring gear mounted to the Trac Loc no problem. Then I moved on to finish the pinion set up. After tightening the rotational torque to 21 in lbs without the slinger, oil seal, and with the oiled old nut. I then broke it down installed the oil slinger, permatexed outer edge of oil seal with grease on the rubber and installed it, finally I permatexed the pinion splines on the yoke and nut, then torque to 175ft lbs. My concern or ? is the rotational torque whent from 21 in lbs to 62 in lbs (pics are off from act. results) when complete. I was under the impression that the oil slinger, and oil seal would only add an extra 5 in lbs??? Am I ok or if not how do I proceed? Thank you all trying to assist me with this. PS I do have 1 extra new crush sleeve, along with 1 new solid spacer & shims, plus 1 other new pinion nut, so taking it apart if necessary is not a problem.

 

Jim,
Part of the reason for the high number may be due to the grease being applied to the yoke instead of inside between the lips of the seal. By applying it to the pinion yoke when you slide the yoke into the seal the seal is going to do its job and wipe the grease away. The seal is designed that way, hence two lips, one to keep fluid in and one to keep crap out. Yes you probably get a little lube inside but not very much. Other than not having grease between the seal lips (it looks dry in the picture)to prevent an early failure of the seal I think you are ok. Granted this is all based on your pictures, I could (and according to my wife) am probably full of ****.

I have taken things apart years later and still found grease between the seal lips that I placed there when assembling and have never had a seal failure when I lubed them this way.

 

That makes sense, I went out to the garage because my wonderful wife was well in a bad mood, so I wasn't as prepared as I would have liked to be (was upset). Bottom line is I forgot to pre lube the seal.

 

I was wondering what that is that you applied to the splines for the pinion shaft? Looks like brush-in-a-cap, Permatex?

I think Dave is probably right, although it's hard to imagine none of the grease got into the face of the seal.

You are doing a very thorough job!

 

Hi Ross yes its just high tack Permatex. I should have never run out to the garage in the middle of the night but, "My Bad" I have half a mind to order or pick up a new seal and see if the results are different. I would hate to get everything together and on the road only to find that it failed because of a $3 part and rookie mistake.

 

I have a question, if the current thought is correct and the extra torque is being caused by the dry inner seal lip. Will the presence of operating oil lubricate the seal once in use?

 

Yes, but until it gets in there, the seal may get worn out. Just peel the seal lip back very carefully and squirt some oil in there.

 

Thank you Ross, that's the difference between you, Dave and all the other pros on here, simple solution to simple problem. I would have ended up redoing the whole thing. Ill give it a shot. "FTE ROCKS ON, and so does my project." (PS, This morning, my wonderful wife is as wonderful as ever again.)

 

OH WELL, I pulled the pinion nut, cleaned everything up, thoroughly lubricated the seal(both lips) used regular red Permatex on splines and nut, torqued new nut to 175 foot Lbs.and rechecked rotational torque. It was now at 75 in Lbs, not the hoped for 25 inch Lbs. I have made the decision to pull it apart completely except for the bearings and races, and start over using the solid spacer this time. I just can't ignore the obvious that something is not rite. Ill post again when I have it assembled correctly. As always, Id like to thank you guys for always being patient and helping me wherever you can. If it weren't for you guys I would never attempt any of the things I attempt.

 

You will like the solid spacer, nothing can change with that thing in there and you can pull the pinion any time you like because at torque all parts are limited without the crush sleeve.

 

Jim,
I salute yoru efforts on rebuilding your 9". I should have done the same. The only pieces of the build of Willard was the 9" and the 700R4 AOD that I did not do myslf. The AOD is fine however the 9" rebuild by a recommended guy went poorly-a big mistake on my part for not doing what you are doing. I have about 400 miles on the truck and have been in the shakedown phase. The rear had been gradually getting louder with a whine developing when on the throttle. I pulled the center last week and took it to a highly recommended guy (I want it QUIET). Not only was the r&p trashed but the carrier bearings were discolored, obviously set up too tight. It is not my norm to have anyone else work on my truck.

 

Every time you re torque nut you are crushing the sleeve more, crush sleeve is a one time deal. I use a solid pinion spacer the you can change seal without changing preload on pinion bearing and torque nut to spec each time.

 

The support, encouragement, and instruction around here just never ceases to touch my heart, thank you all. "PS" In for a penny in for a pound, I just ordered a new yoke, seal, and nut. Heck why not at this point ayhh? As always I am having a good time doing this, and learning from my mistakes in the process.