Electrical Snafu Part2
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Electrical Snafu Part2
Is this for a 2 wire set up or a 1 wire?
I've got a 262Y engine which I think has been converted to an alternator. Part number on alternator is 40A E1ZF DA. The current wiring has alternator and voltage regulator VR. Alternator has 2 posts 1 labeled GRD ground and 1 labeled BAT battery. Currently GRD has wire going to A terminal on VR. BAT terminal has 2 wires attached one going to I terminal on VR on going to + side of solenoid. Is that the proper connections?
Thanks in advance for the help
Last edited by Redworks; Jun 12, 2015 at 06:28 AM. Reason: clarity
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From: Colville, Washington
No that is not correct. That is a standard 3 wire Ford alternator. It has a BAT, STA, FLD, and they don't count the GRD terminal for some reason. In your picture the terminal with the red insulator is the battery +, the insulated terminal below that is the field, the upper left insulated is the stator, the uninsulated in the lower right is the ground. The regulator needs a switched 12v source connected to the I terminal, the alternator BAT and regulator A need to both connect to the starter solenoid positive cable side(this is the charge wire from the alternator, make sure it is at least 10 gauge), the alt FLD is connected to the regulator's F terminal, the STA terminal is connected to the regulator's S connector.
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Thanks Putt your a great help. That makes it a lot clearer. I read on some post that you can do an accessory ground from the ground on the alternator to the mounting bolt of the regulator to make sure there is a good ground in the charging system. Is that a good idea? I saw another wiring diagram saying ground should go back to - battery post. Is it the BAT to solenoid or A to solenoid that need to be 10g?
Last edited by Redworks; Jun 12, 2015 at 09:48 AM. Reason: more info
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Yes, that is fine, but a lot of the original hookups did not have an extra ground hooked up, they were grounded through the mounting brackets. You do need to make sure there is a ground from the battery to the engine block, I always ground the block with the battery cable, then run another 8 or 10 gauge wire to the frame.
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Is this for a 2 wire set up or a 1 wire?
I've got a 262Y
engine which I think has been converted to an alternator.
262 is an inline I-6, it's not a Y block V8. 1961/64 FoMoCo vehicles (except 1963/64 Thunderbirds) came w/a generator as standard equipment.
1963/64 Thunderbirds and 1965 and later FoMoCo vehicles came with alternators as standard equipment.
ID engineering number prefix-suffix and amperage on alternator is 40A E1ZF DA
I've got a 262Y
engine which I think has been converted to an alternator. 262 is an inline I-6, it's not a Y block V8. 1961/64 FoMoCo vehicles (except 1963/64 Thunderbirds) came w/a generator as standard equipment.
1963/64 Thunderbirds and 1965 and later FoMoCo vehicles came with alternators as standard equipment.
ID engineering number prefix-suffix and amperage on alternator is 40A E1ZF DA
The following is not a one wire alternator.
E1ZZ-10346-A (replaced D9ZZ-10346-A) .. 40 Amp Alternator / Marked: D9ZF-10300-AA or E1ZF-10300-AA or BA or CA or DA (Motorcraft GL-204-A).
1979/81 Mustang/Capri/Fairmont/Zephyr & 1981 Escort/Lynx / Ditto 1982/83 without A/C.
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Numbers Dummy you are so right. Not a straight 6 I got that info from previous owner and door number plate (both wrong) and I didn't know what a 262 meant.
Putt got met straight that it is a 3 wire set up. When I pulled it to have it bench tested I saw that its a motorcraft. Parts guy tested if using reman # 7078A with a 60 amp output which it passed. I don't know does that make it a 60 amp alt. My final step is new wires to F & S terminals. Only question is what wire gauge those wire to voltage regulator should be from alt to VR.
Thanks for assistance.
Putt got met straight that it is a 3 wire set up. When I pulled it to have it bench tested I saw that its a motorcraft. Parts guy tested if using reman # 7078A with a 60 amp output which it passed. I don't know does that make it a 60 amp alt. My final step is new wires to F & S terminals. Only question is what wire gauge those wire to voltage regulator should be from alt to VR.
Thanks for assistance.
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From: Colville, Washington
The wires for the S and F terminals only need to be 16 gauge, very little current in them, actually I think the OE wires are only 18 ga. You can buy a new factory type connector for the voltage regulator at most parts stores.
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im going through this now, alternator tested good at 14.78, new VR, i took the tape off the VR wires to the ALT, they are all good and go to the correct terminals on the ALT. BAT wire and A wire on the VR go to the pos side of the solenoid, ground wire from VR goes to the ground post on the ALT then to the block along with the NEG battery cable. VR I terminal has power with the key on, im still only getting 12.6 volts at the battery?
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