Water in your fuel

It does look like water and oil mix.

Look at your dipstick, see if it looks the same?

 

I say that warrants pulling the stick and having a very good look in there. Make sure you have a fresh O-ring set on-hand.

 

I'm going to do the o-rings on all 8.


1) Do I need some kind of short pry bar to get the injectors out?


2) No need to pull the oil rail plugs right - just be sure to clear the cylinders?

3) Vacuum cyll through GP hole.

4) VCs on, turn over motor by hand (clockwise on the crank pully?)

5) all 8 GPs out - crank with 42 pin out to blow out anything missed by hand crank

6) Install GPs


7) Will be hard to start - give it a few tries. Be sure to give the starter a rest

8) give it 100 miles or so to get all air out of the system

 

To get the injector out:

1) Remove 8mm bolt
2) Remove oil spout
3) Push the collar towards the valley so that it clears the bolt on the valley side
4) Holding the collar so its pushed towards the valley, pry up on the collar at the point closest to the valley.

Are the steps above correct?

Should the injector be really hard to pop out?

 

Here is a write up I did on pulling the injectors and replacing the cups. Its not quite finished but will help you through it. I need to add it here, but you have to drain the oil out of the heads so not to hydro lock the motor. Take out the 2 allen head bolts from inside the valve cover near the top.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...with-pics.html

 

My comments above in RED.

 

I got the rear injector out already. I should be good as long as a pull the glow plug and turn it over by hand right?

I also drained the fuel bowl in hopes of less fuel contaminating the oil.

 

Clean those up as best as you can. It also makes it easier to coat the new O-rings in oil to get them on but not necessary. Dunk the injector into oil before putting it back into the bore. Don't loose the copper washer on the end.

Did you remove these bolts?

 

Dunk - not coat - so oil can also soak into the inside of the injector?


no



Could this impact boost and egts?

 

Dunk or coat as long as it has a good covering of oil.

You can either remove the oil valley head plugs which requires more work and is messy or you could remove those allen bolts ( there are 2 of them per head). This will allow the oil to drain down to the pan and not into the cylinder heads. If oil got into the cylinder heads and you go to put it back together and fire the engine, you will hydro lock the motor. If the cylinders are full of oil you can either suck it out or turn the motor over by hand several times to clear it out.

 

This is what we did.

Nice pics and carnage Keep them coming.

See the dark brown and black burnt areas? That can mean combustion gasses coming past your copper washer/seat.

Possibilities: Loose injector, worn orings and copper washers, bad cups (I think, my cups were okay)

Don't worry about the fuel bowl, you'll want to change your oil anyways

Scott's giving good advice, so I'm filling in the stuff I'm most comfortable with saying

 

Those O-rings are shot. I don't think that will impact boost and gets (that is usually a leaky up-pipe or loose boots) Those O-rings will impact the way the motor runs/sounds/vibrations.

 

Please add all you can. Your help is huge.

 

Your in this far - have you considered replacing the injector cups?

 

I'm not loosing coolant and I don't have white smoke all the time. Don't those get replaced only if an issue is detected?