Wrench light and random high idle?
Pocket, I wasn't pointing any fingers directly, just making a generalization based on recent observations. It probably came off a little more harshly than I meant it to though, instead of the facetious nature in which it was intended. Apologies to anyone that took it to heart.
Doc, which is sadder? My little rant, or the fact that in the months this thread has been around, you couldn't be bothered to respond with any sort of helpful advice....yet you'll go out of your way to formulate a multi paragraph stab, just to "give me the business" after your pee got bent out of shape? I can't help but think my problem could have been solved months ago had you simply focused that energy into more productive efforts, instead of using it to step up onto your soap box to call me out and prove yourself an even bigger douche cannon than you tried to make me out to be? I get it though, I've read some of the other posts you've made in the whopping 2-months you've been here. It's....well, its just your thing.
Seriously dude....thanks for your contribution. It's been immensely helpful.
Anyway, like I said. If anyone else finds this helpful, my experience is here for you to read. Might save someone else the headache I went through.
Doc, which is sadder? My little rant, or the fact that in the months this thread has been around, you couldn't be bothered to respond with any sort of helpful advice....yet you'll go out of your way to formulate a multi paragraph stab, just to "give me the business" after your pee got bent out of shape? I can't help but think my problem could have been solved months ago had you simply focused that energy into more productive efforts, instead of using it to step up onto your soap box to call me out and prove yourself an even bigger douche cannon than you tried to make me out to be? I get it though, I've read some of the other posts you've made in the whopping 2-months you've been here. It's....well, its just your thing.
Seriously dude....thanks for your contribution. It's been immensely helpful.

Anyway, like I said. If anyone else finds this helpful, my experience is here for you to read. Might save someone else the headache I went through.
I thought maybe you were just having a bad day and might exhibit some class and issue a sincere apology once your poor form had been pointed out to you.
Here's how grownups do it:
Sorry for lashing out. I guess I was having a bad day and your original post came across as rude. Looks like I was a bit too sensitive an overreacted. Glad the truck is running well. Next time it breaks hopefully I'll have some knowledge or experience that is helpful.
To this end - , without taking sides with anyone, I would like to add the following footnote that seems relevant and a possible learning moment - re: the above quote.
I can understand, and have experienced first hand, @Gearbanger 101 's frustration. Although not an silver bullet or instant cure for the frustrations, @Brokenleg 's suggestion about a scanner is 'spot on'. They are just a necessary tool for effective isolation and diagnosis of many problems with our trucks. But even with a "code reader" or "scanner", it is STILL a mistake to jump to conclusions based on a code without looking at _other_ (even multiple) information to confirm it. You have to work diligently to understand the system affected, and try to "challange" its components to narrow down the cause. Case in Point... Post #11 " Got a P061f and aP2106 code. Both of which seem to point towards the throttle body"
Throttle operation (like MANY other) systems on our trucks are what are called "closed loop" systems. The closed loop system we are most familiar with is the Fuel Injectors to O2 sensors for maintaining optimum fuel/air ratio. So we have generally all learned that a RICH or LEAN "code" does not necessarily MEAN a bad O2 sensor!
But what about other closed loop systems. ie: (cam position / VCT solenoids - Left & Right sides separately), (Fuel tank pressure / Evap Solenoid), (Wheel deceleration rate / Brake Caliper pressure - X four), (Wheel acceleration rate / throttle plate - 'traction control'), (Limp Mode / several inputs like CHT & over-rich O2's). _AND YES_ (Accelerator Pedal / Throtle plate). The one common element among them, in order to function as a "closed loop" or feedback operated system they must have at least one (and often many) inputs. With an appropriate scanner, those INPUTS can be checked / verfied / monitored and even challanged with some creativity. As simply as puttin' cardboard in front of the radiator to force an electric fan to kick on.
I'm not picking on anybody here, but it was stated in Post #11:
A quick review of both codes reveals: "Internal Control Module Throttle Actuator Controller Performance" and "Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power" respectively. the possible causes of the latter reads as follows:
- Throttle actuator control motor is stuck open or closed
- Faulty Throttle actuator control
- Throttle actuator control motor harness is open or shorted
- Throttle actuator control circuit poor electrical connection
Now I am not a sales person or advocate of any specific code reader or scanner. And not trying to plug any brand. I do happen to use the Torque Pro App - simply because it is very inexpensive ($4.95 + a good bluetooth dongle can be had for < $20), and with the Ford Extended PID's added is quiet satisfactory for most problems. It's customization flexibality is stunning with added effort, and it can rival Fords IDS system by adding custom PIDs. But enough about that, any reader /scanner that you can input specific PIDs to read is the key. Many, (though not all) Ford PIDs are available from the Motorcraft site. In this thread - once prompted by the two DTC codes, by monitoring the following PIDs, should have narrowed the issue down to the rheostat in the accelerator pedal. (Probably EXACTLY what the Dealership did with its IDS system.)
Acrynom ___ PID# _ description ___________________ units
AccPedal __ 09D4 _ Accelerator Pedal Position ____ % of total movement.
RTP _______ 0045 _ Relative Throttle Position ____ %
TPD _______ 091a _ Throttle Position Desired _____ º (Degrees angle)
CTA _______ 004C _ Commanded Throttle Actuator ___ %
In Torque I can create a custom gauge 0% to 100%, and with ignition on, engine off, watch the gauge track the accelerator position. I would think - if the rheostat (AccPedal) was scratchy - it would bounce around good. With the engine running, I notice under load conditions, the PCM commands the throttle plate open wider than my foot is asking for. I would think - this would show "Forced Limited Power" as indicated in your P2106 DTC.
Once you have a good reader or scanner, the live readings can still leave you feeling helpless without some reference standards. To that end, I attach the following document from the Ford Factory Service Manual.
Glad you got your problem solved, - sorry I didn't 'happen onto' the thread earlier - but nevertheless hope this helps the next member.
Thank You!
Ok....I gotta say, the tech in this forum has taken a real dump. Over 900-views and only 5 responses??? It seems if it doesn't have to do with plus sizing your tires, bolting on an obnoxious exhaust system, or adding lights to your grill, people just scroll on by.
Threads over 5-months old now and almost no helpful replies. Guess nobody really gives a damn about these trucks anymore since the twelfth and now thirteenth generation P/U's have hit the street.
*RANT OVER*
So, for those who still care and have been following along, it turns out that the accelerator pedal was the culprit. I guess the potentiometer situated in the pedal mechanism took a dump and started sending the ECU wonky readings. Would explain the high idle, random dead pedal and continuous tripping of the "limp mode". Never did find out if the adjustable and non adjustable pedals were interchangeable, but based on the pic above, I'm gonna say they are. I was able to get an adjustable pedal for all of $45 at a pick n pull, so I grabbed it.
Truck runs as good as ever now. Wrench light is gone and hasn't come back, idle is perfect, power is back and no dead spots. I'd like to thank everyone for their help, but other than a handful of people who responded, I pretty much fixed this one by myself.
Yay me.
Threads over 5-months old now and almost no helpful replies. Guess nobody really gives a damn about these trucks anymore since the twelfth and now thirteenth generation P/U's have hit the street.
*RANT OVER*
So, for those who still care and have been following along, it turns out that the accelerator pedal was the culprit. I guess the potentiometer situated in the pedal mechanism took a dump and started sending the ECU wonky readings. Would explain the high idle, random dead pedal and continuous tripping of the "limp mode". Never did find out if the adjustable and non adjustable pedals were interchangeable, but based on the pic above, I'm gonna say they are. I was able to get an adjustable pedal for all of $45 at a pick n pull, so I grabbed it.
Truck runs as good as ever now. Wrench light is gone and hasn't come back, idle is perfect, power is back and no dead spots. I'd like to thank everyone for their help, but other than a handful of people who responded, I pretty much fixed this one by myself.
Yay me.
PS - Do you have specifics on that pedal?
Hahaha
I want to thank you for all this. I have been fighting the same issues and don’t have the first clue how to begin to fix it. I completely understood the frustration, and any mechanics I know just scratch their heads and say the don’t know. I am hoping to get this taken care of and be more safe on the road soon!
PS - Do you have specifics on that pedal?
PS - Do you have specifics on that pedal?
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