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I have a 2003 f250 w/ the 7.3l while towing my toyhauler (15600 gvrw) and approx 10500 unloaded on long steep pulls I seem to reach 45-50 mph and thats all I seem to get. I'm not pushing trying to race up the hill but I know that I can get a little more. Hoping some of you fellas can help me shed some light on what I need to look for.
Heres the truck:
35" Discoverer STTS
add a leaf kit on the back to match a f350
gooseneck hitch
stock injectors
stock turbo w/ Riffraffs billet wheel
Riffraff FRx kit
intake "airaid" air cleaner
Bully Dog programmer but obviously not running anything but the tow setting
Elevation I'm towing at was 5500' up to nearly 12000' and then back down.
seemed a little laggy and was only building boost up to 15 maybe 20 psi.
throwing no codes
puking a little black smoke when pulling away from stoplights going uphill. grades were 6% or a little more. ( Colorado Hwy 9 over Hoosier Pass and Colorado Hwy 24 over Ute Pass in Colorado Springs)
I just changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter.
From what I have been told here. That speed ain't bad. And egts are very important to monitor. I go the same speed as you with my toy hauler up grades. No need to be the fastest up them.
EGTs went from 700 to 1100. I stayed in 2nd (its an auto trans). I could get to 65-70 on the interstate but with Colorado's fine roads that gets a tad sketchy.
EGTs went from 700 to 1100. I stayed in 2nd (its an auto trans). I could get to 65-70 on the interstate but with Colorado's fine roads that gets a tad sketchy.
At that speed tranny temps, not EGTs is what's going to ruin your vehicle.
Need to make sure your TC remains locked while in second.
Tranny temps averaged 165-175. I did hit 205 going up the steep side of Hoosier. For those of you not familiar, you can't do much more than 35 in a car on that side. 3 miles of nasty climbs and 180° hairpins.
I wasn't doing 65-70 in 2nd. That was normal in Drive with the tow button engaged.
Tranny temps averaged 165-175. I did hit 205 going up the steep side of Hoosier. For those of you not familiar, you can't do much more than 35 in a car on that side. 3 miles of nasty climbs and 180° hairpins. I wasn't doing 65-70 in 2nd. That was normal in Drive with the tow button engaged.
Low boost, black smoke, low power... First thought is boost leak, anywhere from uppipe gaskets to intake plenums. EGTs ok? Have time to mess with it before next grade?
Axle code C1 is 3.73 limited slip. And IIRC mine with same axle same place 9k load was about the same. If no boost leaks I'd call it normal. The Colorado scenery has it's price.
Low boost, black smoke, low power... First thought is boost leak, anywhere from uppipe gaskets to intake plenums. EGTs ok? Have time to mess with it before next grade?
EGTs were fine. I suppose I could have a small leak. The rubber is just as old as the truck.
How much improvement can I gain with smaller tires and what would it involve to swap gearing. I want it to tow not beat up ricers. I have the 300c for that. Haha
Your tire size with the stock gears is your biggest issue. For towing that weight with 35's you should be running 4.10 gears which would get you close to the same final ratio as stock tires with 3.73's. However, you may want to step up to 4.30's if your towing a bunch.
Changing tires would be much easier and generally less expensive than changing gears. If your 4x4, then you must change both the front and rear axle gears. It's not an easy DIY job and requires special expensive tools to install the gears so they mesh properly. Generally your looking at $800-1200 per axle for a shop to do it with most of that going toward labor. Another option is swapping the axle. It may be easier to find a 4.30 geared axle in a junk yard for $500-800 ea and bolt them in before selling your old ones. You just need to make sure the new ones are in good shape otherwise you will be spending a bunch of money on rebuilding it.
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