New plugs - now runs rough; '06 4-cyl
#1
New plugs - now runs rough; '06 4-cyl
Hi Fellas,
Although my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
So what do you guys think - will it clear up after a few more engine start/stops & a few miles - OR - do I have a problem that will not heal?
BarnieTrk
Although my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
So what do you guys think - will it clear up after a few more engine start/stops & a few miles - OR - do I have a problem that will not heal?
BarnieTrk
#4
Hi all,
ALL IS WELL UNDER THE HOOD ONCE AGAIN!
I was advised that I had my set my sparkplug gap too tight (@ 0.042"), so I went about removing the plugs again and re-gapped them to 0.053". In the process, I discovered what was likely the problem... I had forgotten to re-attach the evaporative emission hose at the Idle Air Control valve assembly. DUH!!
The hose crosses just above the #2 / #3 plug access area on the right side of the intake and I had disconnected it and set it aside to gain better access for the plug removal and simply forgot to re-attach it. So....the open hose ends were sucking air BIGTIME and I'm sure was the reason for my 2.3L to run so rough. I could kick myself more, but 'poop occurs' and I'm just glad I discovered it & not someone else pointing it out, "Ahhh,, what is this supposed to be plugged into??"
The benefit to the unattached hose was that it prompted me to go back and set the plug gaps correctly, which I'm sure was the right thing to do....
Thanks to everyone that responded to my help request.
Trying to keep my tools clean; Have a GREAT DAY everyone!
BarnieTrk
ALL IS WELL UNDER THE HOOD ONCE AGAIN!
I was advised that I had my set my sparkplug gap too tight (@ 0.042"), so I went about removing the plugs again and re-gapped them to 0.053". In the process, I discovered what was likely the problem... I had forgotten to re-attach the evaporative emission hose at the Idle Air Control valve assembly. DUH!!
The hose crosses just above the #2 / #3 plug access area on the right side of the intake and I had disconnected it and set it aside to gain better access for the plug removal and simply forgot to re-attach it. So....the open hose ends were sucking air BIGTIME and I'm sure was the reason for my 2.3L to run so rough. I could kick myself more, but 'poop occurs' and I'm just glad I discovered it & not someone else pointing it out, "Ahhh,, what is this supposed to be plugged into??"
The benefit to the unattached hose was that it prompted me to go back and set the plug gaps correctly, which I'm sure was the right thing to do....
Thanks to everyone that responded to my help request.
Trying to keep my tools clean; Have a GREAT DAY everyone!
BarnieTrk
#5
I agree the plug gap needed to be corrected. Good find on the loose vacuum hose & to hear its running fine now. That loose vacuum line has likely affected your fuel trim, so you might want to disconnect the battery B- cable to wipe the corrupt fuel trim tables, so the computer can begin to build new ones with a tight system & the new plugs gapped correctly, in place.
#6
Good Call, Pawpaw!
Yep, after re-gapping the plugs and re-attaching the EEC hose, the truck ran fine. I drove it 80 miles without a hitch. BUT - I did notice I was left with a 'Check Engine Light' (CEL) light on the dash.
So as you suggested, I removed the battery cables to reset the CEL. I popped the battery cell caps and added a bit of distilled water to most of them then I cleaned up the two posts and wire cable connectors, which took a couple of minutes, which I figured if it needed a couple of minutes to 'rest' it was getting it. I re-attached the battery cables and restarted the 2.3L and the CEL was no longer lighted.
All is happy again in the 'hood!
BarnieTrk
Yep, after re-gapping the plugs and re-attaching the EEC hose, the truck ran fine. I drove it 80 miles without a hitch. BUT - I did notice I was left with a 'Check Engine Light' (CEL) light on the dash.
So as you suggested, I removed the battery cables to reset the CEL. I popped the battery cell caps and added a bit of distilled water to most of them then I cleaned up the two posts and wire cable connectors, which took a couple of minutes, which I figured if it needed a couple of minutes to 'rest' it was getting it. I re-attached the battery cables and restarted the 2.3L and the CEL was no longer lighted.
All is happy again in the 'hood!
BarnieTrk
#7
One more comment --
After installing new - properly gapped - sparkplugs and then changing the 5-speed manual transmission gear lube (with fresh MERCON III ATF) I took it for a 390 trip to see Dad on Dad's Day.
In the back of my Ranger (2006 XLT, 5-speed manual, 2.3L 4-cylinder, A/C, regular cab) I had loaded a push mower, weed trimmer, chainsaw, a can of 2-cycle fuel and a can of straight gasoline, two coolers, two bag chairs, you know......all the stuff for a day on the river bank.
On the way back home, it started to rain so the wife & I had to roll up the windows and turn on the A/C for the last 60+ miles or so. Last night, I refilled the fuel tank and decided to run the numbers on the fuel useage, to see if the new plugs improved the fuel mileage..... and it had!
Given the majority of the miles were highway miles, it figured out to 28.4 mpg!
Yep, I run mid-grade fuel and I add LUCAS ethanol stabilizer which adds to my cost over regular fuel without any additives, but I'm not complaining!
BarnieTrk
After installing new - properly gapped - sparkplugs and then changing the 5-speed manual transmission gear lube (with fresh MERCON III ATF) I took it for a 390 trip to see Dad on Dad's Day.
In the back of my Ranger (2006 XLT, 5-speed manual, 2.3L 4-cylinder, A/C, regular cab) I had loaded a push mower, weed trimmer, chainsaw, a can of 2-cycle fuel and a can of straight gasoline, two coolers, two bag chairs, you know......all the stuff for a day on the river bank.
On the way back home, it started to rain so the wife & I had to roll up the windows and turn on the A/C for the last 60+ miles or so. Last night, I refilled the fuel tank and decided to run the numbers on the fuel useage, to see if the new plugs improved the fuel mileage..... and it had!
Given the majority of the miles were highway miles, it figured out to 28.4 mpg!
Yep, I run mid-grade fuel and I add LUCAS ethanol stabilizer which adds to my cost over regular fuel without any additives, but I'm not complaining!
BarnieTrk
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#8
#9
I haven't had that problem yet, PawPaw! LOL
Yep, I know this rate may not be surprising to you, but soon after I brought him home, I checked his mileage & it was a disappointing 22 mpg. So by getting it up to within the factory specified MPG of 24/29 mpg I think is great. Considering he has logged 116+K miles and is 9 years old, I'm tickled pink about him running on the high end of the advertised 'when new' mpg rate.
I should also mention that in past trips the fuel gauge indicated that if I run him up over 70 mph his 'thirst' increases noticeably. This past Sunday's trip I kept him between the 65 - 70 mph marks. He's much happier at that pace.....and I don't have to be as concerned about tying stuff in the box down with a net, tarp or such!
Next on my 'To Do' list is to look into when & what fluid to use in changing the rear diff gear lube.....
BarnieTrk
Yep, I know this rate may not be surprising to you, but soon after I brought him home, I checked his mileage & it was a disappointing 22 mpg. So by getting it up to within the factory specified MPG of 24/29 mpg I think is great. Considering he has logged 116+K miles and is 9 years old, I'm tickled pink about him running on the high end of the advertised 'when new' mpg rate.
I should also mention that in past trips the fuel gauge indicated that if I run him up over 70 mph his 'thirst' increases noticeably. This past Sunday's trip I kept him between the 65 - 70 mph marks. He's much happier at that pace.....and I don't have to be as concerned about tying stuff in the box down with a net, tarp or such!
Next on my 'To Do' list is to look into when & what fluid to use in changing the rear diff gear lube.....
BarnieTrk
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