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So this is what I'm starting with where do I start?
Battery isn't charging. Pull the neg cable engine shuts down. Assume that means generator is no good. Got a electrical burning smell with just the battery installed and key not on. I'm pulling radio and taps into fuse box for that. Disconnected wiper switch because that quit on 1st drive. How hard is it to pull the instrument cluster and dash so I can see what's going on?
Thanks in advance.
71 views and only 1 response. Please include your truck specs somewhere on your post and you'll probably get more help. I'm guessing this is your 64 F100? The dash is really easy to remove. There are originally 12 screws holding the cluster onto the dash. 4 on the top, 4 on the bottom, and 4 around the speedo. The entire metal panel comes off. From there you can remove the rest of the gauges and lights if necessary.
Thanks. 62Ford F250. I'm still trying to figure out best way to ask the questions. I've been reading the old messages and I'm thinking an alternator conversion is the way to go. Also maybe a new fuse block on the fire wall to run new wiring to to get rid of the birds nest.
Red, You might come out ahead getting some local help. It sounds like you have a/some direct shortages.
1- Installing a fresh charged battery should not cause any current draws, or smells.
2- You should be able to start your truck, disconnect the - cable, completely remove the battery and it continue to run as it is a storage unit only.
Don't know if removing the dash cluster is any great help. I might look elsewhere 1st. Look to where the wires from the fuse panel go and pull them til you can figure it out. I have added a wire for a radio or something in my truck.
Your 1st issue is likely under the hood. Something is wired backwards or a hot wire is touching metal.
Posting at 6:30 on a Sunday night may not be prime time for getting fast results.
Thanks. 62Ford F250. I'm still trying to figure out best way to ask the questions. I've been reading the old messages and I'm thinking an alternator conversion is the way to go. Also maybe a new fuse block on the fire wall to run new wiring to to get rid of the birds nest.
Get on Painless wiring's web site, they have everything you could possibly need to get that thing back together the right way, eliminate all those but connectors and scotch locks, they are weak links in a system. You got your hands full, someone did you dirty with that mess under there, its easy now a day's to add a fuse panel for accessories, for constant power and key on power all fuses with either glass like the original or updated with ATO style push ins. Painless wiring has bailed me out on some real messy wiring jobs and they don't beat you up with there price either. At least It will give you a starting point to work with.
Stop in to the Vermont forum once in a while, ask Prince Jim to take you in as a member of the Vermont forum. That's of old timers and electricians there too.
Thanks. 62Ford F250. I'm still trying to figure out best way to ask the questions. I've been reading the old messages and I'm thinking an alternator conversion is the way to go. Also maybe a new fuse block on the fire wall to run new wiring to to get rid of the birds nest.
I just removed the harness from a 1965 parts truck for my 65 project. The panel is easy. Just remove the speedo cable tilt it out, label the wires and sockets, remove them and it's out. if you don't have a wiring diagram already you need one, they are cheap and a necessity. If you have hot wires with the key off something is grounded. Have you checked the voltage regulator? Sometimes you can remove the generator belt and if the regulator is stuck the generator will run like an electric motor. Just go slow, check one circuit at a time and you will sort it out. Good Luck!
I just removed the harness from a 1965 parts truck for my 65 project. The panel is easy. Just remove the speedo cable tilt it out, label the wires and sockets, remove them and it's out. if you don't have a wiring diagram already you need one, they are cheap and a necessity. If you have hot wires with the key off something is grounded. Have you checked the voltage regulator? Sometimes you can remove the generator belt and if the regulator is stuck the generator will run like an electric motor. Just go slow, check one circuit at a time and you will sort it out. Good Luck!
Thanks crop duster. I've never worked on generator/voltage regulator system before. I've got a multimeter but haven't done that much with it. I've got the diagram but not sure what regulator looks like. Silver part says Borg and Warner w terminals label I/A/F/S nothing attached to I terminal. How do I test regulator?
My Friend, from what I see in the last picture, you already have an alternator and a newer regulator. In that case most of the major parts houses can test those for you and worst case you can probably replace both for under $75.
The Ford battery terminals are in a different location than the battery terminals for AMC/ChryCo and GM vehicles.
Some people buy these batteries, then unknowingly install the cables ***-backwards.
Originally Posted by Crop Duster
My friend, from what I see in the last picture, you already have an alternator and a newer (solid state electronic) regulator.
OP has a 1964 F100, which came with a generator, so these parts have been swapped in.
In 1981 Ford replaced the points type alternator regulator with the electronic (solid state) alternator regulator. The alternator wiring harness plug is the same for both.
The Ford version of this regulator has MOTORCRAFT reverse embossed (on the diagonal) on its cover.
OP's solid state regulator has a Borg-Warner decal on the cover.
Thanks for the help. I've established that shouldn't assume anything since I don't know a generator from an alternator. So I'm going to assume nothing. At Numbersguy's suggestion I make sure pos and neg are attached correctly. Not attached in photos as I get that burning smell soon as I hook up. But thought I should check to see if battery cable are attached to the firewall solenoid? (I don't know what that is either I'm trying to get the wiring diagrams printed bigger so I can read them)
Thanks everyone for all the help today. Found a lot of bare wires other bad situations some wires had 2 splices in 12". Burning smell was coming from cassette player spliced into some circuit. Chopped that out and no longer smelled like burnt plastic. Tomorrow is regulator and alternator check.
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