Yeah, that's the last remaining concern I have, and will become evident once I get inside the boot in the coming days.


I appreciate your input!


Mitch

 

You could end up getting very lucky and find that only 1 or 2 wires need to be repaired. Also, an easy way to find which wire or wires are broken is to grab the wire in 2 places and try to pull it apart with moderate effort. If the copper is intact it won't pull, but if the copper is broken then the insulation will stretch at the break.

 

I found one broken wire over the weekend, repaired now, and the windows are good aside from repairing the glass-to-Regulator channel bond on the drivers side doors from many years outside in the sun. I need to find the best glue to do that and should be in good shape after that. ( the best adhesive I found from researching, is a 3M panel bonding product, but that is no longer available in Ca.).


Now, I switched over to the locking system (a problem I mentioned in one of my early posts to this thread), which had given me trouble and I ended up un-plugging the switch a while ago. So here is a request for some additional help/ info. I have only a Haynes manual, and I found the wiring colors differ from manual to the actual ones, I also see the gauge is different from switch leads, and the heavier leads in the door harness, which I concluded is due to relays in the GEM (?) The locking system wiring diagrams also differ for a vehicle with Remote Anti-theft Personality Module (relayed?) and one without. In both instances they show power to front door master lock switches is Blk/ Wht, and I have neither...
Can anybody school me a bit regarding the RAP module, as related to the locking system, or help me track and troubleshoot the wiring to make sure there is no broken wires in the door harness so I can re-assemble the drivers door now that the windows are back in operation?


Thanks in Advance!
Mitch

 

Good old silicone does the job nicely. Clean the surfaces good, apply the silicone, assemble, close the window for a minimum of 24 hours with 72 hours being optimal.

 

Great, I've seen the reference to it's use for this before. I'll need to borrow the long red nozzle from a can of something else to get a nice coating inside the upper channel (something other than a can of spray adhesive - right, LOL)


Thanks again!

 

Sorry, but I misinterpreted your silicone suggestion for advice to keep the windows from grabbing the inside of the upper window tracks, and not the mechanical connection for the bottom of the window itself, I've looked a fair amount on many forums and sites, and read suggestions for Silicone, Gorilla Glue, and professional grade 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive (the one that sounded the best to me until I tried to find it locally, and told it NLA in Ca. now).
Have you used the Silicone personally, and had good results?


Mitch

 

Several times, as long as you give it time to dry and do not open the window prematurely. A nice hot summer day and 24 hours is usually good, cooler days require closer to the 72 hour mark. I have found that doing it on a Friday afternoon is best because many people don't need to drive to work on the weekends, so it is easier for them to just let it sit.

Also, right after applying it and before the door panel goes back on, I've used either a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm up the silicone joint. This seems to kick start the curing process and reduce curing times.

 

Yesterday afternoon I dove in and removed the two window channel/ glass adapter pieces, thoroughly cleaned the previous OEM adhesive from both those pieces and the glass using a razor blade narrow screwdriver blade and acetone, probably a solid 2 hours work, I then gave a final wipe down with alcohol and re-glued using a GE silicone product they refer to as Silicone Glue. The original product looks like a silicone based product as well. I look forward to trouble free operation once more, at least this window! The rear door suffers from the same issue and I will likely continue on to it in the coming days. Any differences in the door panel removal process, or will it be more or less the same in the removal process, save for fastener locations?


Thank you,


Mitch

 

More or less the same, just less space to work in, along with the addition of the child lock linkage.

 

I was able to silicone the drivers side rear door glass yesterday, and still have the front door curing as well in the sun, now going on 72 hours. I put the harness back into the drivers door, but stopped short of buttoning it up completely since I wanted to silicone the glass and test both the wiring repair and glass gluing work before doing a complete reassembly.


I then went to the rear door but am still seeing an intermittent operation of the rear window motor and am having an issue interpreting the Haynes manual window wiring diagram, I cannot tell if the direct power to the rear door switch is supplied thru the main drivers door switch or directly thru the chassis harness, meaning there is likely another broken conductor in the front door boot and I may need to remove it again and do another repair.


Anyone with insight on this?


Mitch

 

Try using the real wiring diagram. See the attached PDF.

 

It's a known issue when the switch contacts get dirty. It is possible to disassemble the switches and clean the contacts.

 

Now that is a much better diagram than I had, thanks!


I did take the master window switch apart a few years ago, when trouble with the windows first began, perhaps I'll do that once again. I have no operation with the rear door switch at all, as there is no power to it currently
(tho I did a continuity check between the center conductor and remaining terminals and they seem ok)


Mitch

 

Well, I am on the final reassembly of the door panels after Gluing the rear window the other day and also disassembled /cleaned the contacts of the Master and rear door switches as well with effective results, I'm Very pleased!


Thank you so much for the assistance throughout the process.

 

So the rear window works now?