9" rear end question












1957/83 F100 / 1975/86 F150 // 1965/67 E100 Super Van // 1966/86 Bronco // 1969/74 E200 // 1975/87 E100/150.
1957/80 misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars (1980: Granada/Monarch/Versailles only).
Mid-year 1969: FoMoCo changed the differential bearings from ball bearings to "Slim Line" tapered roller bearings.

1957/83 F100 / 1975/86 F150 // 1965/67 E100 Super Van // 1966/86 Bronco // 1969/74 E200 // 1975/87 E100/150.
1957/80 misc FoMoCo Passenger Cars (1980: Granada/Monarch/Versailles only).
Mid-year 1969: FoMoCo changed the differential bearings from ball bearings to "Slim Line" tapered roller bearings.
Thanks Bill. I was going to check with obsolete possibilities. You answered my unasked question!

Dealer installed kit: B9AZ-4880-A listed in Ford Passenger Car Parts Catalogs, not listed for F100's with 9" rear axles in Ford Truck Parts Catalogs.
The fact is, if a 1957/67 F100 9" with Limited Slip was found in a junkyard, the axle was swapped, because it was NOT available originally.
And the swapped rear axle would be from a 1968/72 F100, because...
Beginning in 1973, the 9" rear axle is wider, as FoMoCo increased the distance between the inner frame rails behind the cab from 33 1/2" used previously to 37 1/2."
1948/52 F1's and 1953/56 F100's came with Spicer/Dana rear axles. Because the rear frame rail width increased in 1973, people that swap 9's into these truck use them from 1957/72 F100's.
See my signature, I was a Ford parts guy for 35 years (1962/97), so I didn't start doing this jazz yesterday.
So here's how anyone can put a 9" traction-lok into a 1956 F-100:
Step 1 - Find a 9" axle housing, axles, and brakes from a 1967-72 F-100.
Step 2 - Put a 9" center section (aka - pumpkin, hogs head, pig, chunk, etc) from any 9" ever made from 1957 until 1982 and bolt it right in. Just make sure your spline count matches your axles.
Step 3 - If you don't like your gears or differential, go find one you do and bolt that in. You can find them in junkyards, swap meets, classified ads, craigslist, eBay, internet forums, racing parts distributors, specialists like Currie or Moser and even Ford motorsports (or racing parts...whatever they call themselves these days). You can have just about any ratio from 2.50:1 to 6.00:1. You can get traction-lok, Detroit locker, ARB, torsen, and myriad other limited slip and locking differentials. You can even get spools and mini spools. It all bolts in to ANY 9" housing ever made.
So it's not impossible to have a 9" traction-lok in a 1956 F-100 just because it wasn't available from the factory...
Incidentally, when I put a 9" in my 1951 F1 panel truck almost 30 years ago, I didn't like the gears that were in it and I wanted a limited slip. So, I put the pumpkin out of my mustang in it with 3.89 gears, an N-case and...a traction-lok!
Limited slip (Equa-Lok) introduced in 1959.
1959 thru today: If the AXLE code stamped on the Rating/Warranty Plate, printed on the Certification Label begins w/a letter: Limited Slip.
If the AXLE code begins w/a number: No Limited Slip.
Limited slip (Equa-Lok) introduced in 1959.
1959 thru today: If the AXLE code stamped on the Rating/Warranty Plate, printed on the Certification Label begins w/a letter: Limited Slip.
If the AXLE code begins w/a number: No Limited Slip.
I really don't know why you can't seem to get your head around this, but more importantly, why you have to be so grumpy about it... :/
So I've heard the trick where you can determine if it's limited slip or not by jacking up the rear where both tires are off the ground (in neutral, no parking brake) and turning one tire; if the other tire spins in the opposite direction, it's not a limited slip, and if they spin in the same direction, it is limited slip. I've got a 9" rear in my '56 with the metal ID tag long gone. I pulled the plug on the 3rd member side to check fluid and along with a ton of metal shavings (my hand looked like I slapped a stripper with the resulting "glitter"), I didn't see/feel any fluid so I figured I'd add some. Well, before I buy the kind with/without additive, I figured I'd confirm its not posi. When I tried the method above and turn one wheel forward, the other does nothing. Same result when I turn the opposite wheel...they both rotate the driveshaft, but not the other wheel. Is this common? Thanks!
So I've heard the trick where you can determine if it's limited slip or not by jacking up the rear where both tires are off the ground (in neutral, no parking brake) and turning one tire; if the other tire spins in the opposite direction, it's not a limited slip SNIP
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
This is Sir Watson. I understand clearly what you are throwing down as I, myself have swapped pumpkins out on my 69 f100 from CARS anywhere from the 60's to the 80's.
At the present, I even have a 3 spd with overdrive (4 cage) manuel trans from an 86 f150 installed behind my FE. It was a perfect bolt up to the tranny.
I did LOL when numbersdummy posted the emoji,
"Sherlock" Sir Watson" and the " :-beatinghead " Made me laugh so hard i almost peed....

Numbersdummy is a wealth of information
It's a completely different animal than the traction-lok, using belleville springs to apply an equal load to the side gears as opposed to a spring block. They're not common and almost impossible to get parts for. I had one a long time ago and it's the only reason I know about them...
As for the "right" lube, early traction-loks used grooved/serrated steels instead of clutches, so it doesn't matter if you use the friction modifier or not. And most folks who run any power through a traction-lok don't put the modifer in anyway because all it does is make it easier to slip, which wears them out quicker. They can be nearly as noisy and somewhat harsh as a detroit locker when freshly rebuilt and used without friction modifier...but that's when they work best!

For the OP: pull the pumpkin - it won't cost you anything but a couple hours. Find out where your "glitter" is coming from...could be a worn out T-lok...although I've never seen one so worn out the other tire did nothing when "tested" in the manner in which you did.
I believe that EquaLok required putting a little bottle of the old whale oil friction modifier in the lube like the old Jeep QuadraTrac transfer cases. When the ban on whale hunting came into effect in the early 80s you couldn't get the good stuff so they came up with a synthetic friction modifier that was never as good as the natural whale oil.

We all need to understand what these differentials do before going to all the trouble to install them then being disappointed with the results.













