Posted in the OH Chapter, but I'm posting here since it gets more traffic.
Anyone have any recommendations for a reputable shop specializing in the 6.0L in the NW area? I'm in Bowling Green specifically so closer is better. Truck specifics are 2005 F350 6.0 SRW fx4

Long story short, I took my truck into the Ford dealership in town and they told me I need the turbo taken down and cleaned, EBP sensor replaced, new ball joints and u-joints on the front axles, plus a few other small things I can't think of at the moment. They quoted just under $2800.
I bought a warranty from the dealership where I bought the truck for just this kind of occasion. So Ford contacted the warranty company and filed a claim. It turns out that the dealership, when buying the warranty, put in the incorrect mileage onto the warranty contract. They put the term of the warranty (30,000mi) instead of the miles on the truck when purchased. When this was corrected this morning, the warranty company cancelled my contract because my truck was over the maximum mileage allowed for this contract when purchased (115,000mi). So, because the dealership didn't realize my truck was ineligible when purchasing the warranty, and a typo on the paperwork, I was allowed to pay almost $3000 more for a warranty that I never should have been able to get. So I've been jumping through hoops to contact everyone I need to contact to get my money back. I'm hoping the dealership will make this a smooth process and I won't need to get a lawyer involved.
Sorry, that wasn't very short haha.

Anyway, once my $3000 is returned, I figured if I'm unable to open another warranty contract, this time through my credit union (which offered more coverage for less) and immediately make a claim, then I will get quotes from some local places that specialize in the 6.0L. I'm hoping that if the price difference is great enough, I can either put the difference toward my loan, or pay for some bulletproofing work.
Thanks!

 

Segur's automotive does excellent work. He knows his 6.0s inside and out. I have had mh truck in there twice and was happy each time. Honest and upfront guys through the whole thing

 

Dump the warrenty money in the truck

Aftermarket warrenty suck I lost a bunch money on one those too


What's wrong with truck what made you take to dealer
I DONT subscribe to the fact all those parts are bad

Gauges???

 

I don't have a copy of the diagnosis, but I know for a fact that the ball joints are bad. Had some up and down play in the tires last time I had it off the ground. I had posted a thread a while ago about occasional white smoke on acceleration when the oil temp is consistently ~160 deg. The truck would lose power before smoking.
Oil/coolant deltas are 5-8deg. VGT seemed alright. Moved freely throughout the entire range and didn't appear to be sticking. EGR is good, I pulled the valve and cleaned it. FICM is always 48V or higher. I think everything else looked good on the gauges.
Throwing codes: C1145, C1234, P0299, P0677
Mods: Coolant filter, blue spring upgrade, Riff Raff CAC boots, and PO put a K&N intake on, which I'd like to switch out to OEM sooner rather than later.

 

Segur's Auto and Performance - Auto Repair Shop | Ottawa Lake, MI

Out of Ottawa Lake, MI?

 

a little bit away from you. A former coworkers son. I had my truck towed 100 miles to/from him. He did me right and was a Ford Master Tech before opening up his own place.

Specializes in the 6.0l
https://www.facebook.com/pages/J-J-P...15957268439081

 

yeha thats it. its actually right on the state line north of sylvania. Well worth the tow or slow drive there if needed.

 

That's actually only a short drive away from my hometown, Kettering! So that would be easy to make work as well.

 

Justin is a good guy. Be warned that he is usually booked pretty solid. He charges very fair and will not do you wrong.

 

So you have gauges
Could just be an easy sensor to clean or replace

Post map-baro-ebp

With everyone's help here you could diagnose it and possibly fix it yourself

Then just pay someone to change ball joints and or unit bearing those can be pretty stubborn if it's never been changed before

 

Baro was pretty much ~14.5psi, map was the same at idle, EBP was 17 at idle. At light acceleration, baro remained the same, map got up to about 20, and EBP was about 27-28. I couldn't test any hard accels at WOT, because my truck wouldn't let me. Ever since I picked it up from the dealer, it has been misfiring, absolutely no power, and just DUMPING fuel out the tailpipe, unburnt. I'll post a video as soon as it finishes uploading. I won't drive it anymore unless absolutely necessary.

When my truck was at the dealership, all they did, to my knowledge was update the pcm, tcm, and ficm to the latest stock programming. No new codes were found, and my low boost code went away. Ficm is 48.5-49V for the main and 13.5-14 for logic and vehicle. Deltas were good for oil/coolant. VGT was 85 at idle, 45 ish on light accel. No oil or coolant loss.

Kind of in a tight position now. I'll likely have it towed to the shop in Michigan posted above and have my dad use his credit card to cover for now. And of course the warranty deal makes things more difficult. By law, they have to refund the money to my loan, which means I'll need to refinance my loan to pay my dad back. And my bank, which I have a great deal of trust in, has their own warranty offers available which I will research extensively and hopefully purchase for any future problems. But I shouldn't have to take a massive hit financially due to the dealer's mistake.

 

Tri-Motors Ford in Oak Harbor, OH. Tech is very good and rates are reasonable as I've been buying trucks from them for almost 30 years.

 

http://youtu.be/mRuHAqb3pmY

Here is what's going on after having the computers updated from the dealership.