a/c refrigerant capacity
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#5
Join Date: Mar 2005
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#7
so i charged it to 35psi at idle. The thing is when i throttle up the engine it drops to 20psi and the clutch disengages.
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#9
So how many psi do i need to stop that at idle. 30 to 40 psi is the safe zone on the low side. Its holding at 35 at idle right now
#10
rla2005 is correct, it's volume, not pressure that will stop the idle dysfunction.
I charge by pressure, because once the pressure remains even at 35 it's typically full. Also, you need to check the outside temperature. 35 PSI is only accurate if it's roughly 85 degrees. The filler hose you get should give you pressures v. temps.
Sorry for the confusion.
I charge by pressure, because once the pressure remains even at 35 it's typically full. Also, you need to check the outside temperature. 35 PSI is only accurate if it's roughly 85 degrees. The filler hose you get should give you pressures v. temps.
Sorry for the confusion.
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#12
Just google any truck or car anytime the sticker is missing
Rule of thumb is the new systems use way less than the old ones
I can say without even looking that your 1998 truck takes just under 2 pounds
Whatever it takes, you add 4 ounces for the gauge set
I will look now on google for yours frodo2222
Found one 4 Seasons puts out charts as do others
Yours holds 44 ounces R134a and 9 ounces PAG-46 oil (without rear air) 64 and 13 with
Rule of thumb is the new systems use way less than the old ones
I can say without even looking that your 1998 truck takes just under 2 pounds
Whatever it takes, you add 4 ounces for the gauge set
I will look now on google for yours frodo2222
Found one 4 Seasons puts out charts as do others
Yours holds 44 ounces R134a and 9 ounces PAG-46 oil (without rear air) 64 and 13 with
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#13
thank you!!!..mine was working great BUT in the process of building out the rear of van punctured a line back there and although there was no AC working in back the line did hold pressure so I ended up taking out all the lines and assorted parts of back AC..a tiny amount of yellow oil came out of back line but all the front didnt get touched other than to put a cutoff block off kit I'm assuming since it had the pag oil in the compressor etc etc in front it should be ok but your thoughts?
#14
You might need to split the difference depending where the block off plugs are located
Meaning it might take more freon than a simple front only unit
With a difference of 20 oz. you might need 10 more if the evap only is blocked off
If the block offs are up front, you may only need a few more ounces
Meaning it might take more freon than a simple front only unit
With a difference of 20 oz. you might need 10 more if the evap only is blocked off
If the block offs are up front, you may only need a few more ounces
#15
Do you have a conversion van? The van has rear a/c that isn’t working or it only has front a/c but there are lines for rear air? There would be a difference in amount of charge. You are going to replace the lines with front a/c parts?