It has been a long time since I was last on here but you all always got me fixed right up. I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walk through of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish please, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm an sometimes dies

 

I'll see if I can get things started. There is a cam sensor multi-page thread under Engine, in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum's index page, dealing with how to install the distributor & cam sensor.
From your description of idle speed woes, it sounds like an acting out IAC belongs on your suspect list, as its responsible for maintaining engine idle speed. Maybe try disconnecting its electrical connector so the computer goes back to its pre-programmed control mode & see how it goes. If things are better, maybe remove & try cleaning the IAC with a non residual, plastic safe spray cleaner, like CRC, or Valvolene MAF sensor spray cleaner. Keep the electrical connector end elevated so solvents & removed crud don't run into the windings & corrupt the solenoid wire insulation. Cleaning may not last, it didn't for me on my idle speed woes, but was a good trouble shooting step.
If the CEL is lit, scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code clue Numbers.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Truck keeps running hot. I had my work checked and I tested for gases in cooling system and it checked out good. Thermostat is opening properly, bypasses heater core, fan clutch is good, water pump is new and working properly. Radiator seems to be my only other problem, I'm getting tons of pressure in the system and will spray everywhere when cap is opened but won't leak a drop if I pull the drain plug, is the radiator stopped up?

 

Did you get the timing problem worked out ok???? That can make em run hot.
Lots of things can cause your woes, so at this point I have more questions than suggestions. Sounds like the cooling system was neglected if the radiator drain is plugged, so putting the radiator on your suspect list isn't unreasonable, But lets think about this some more.
Was it doing this Before the water pump install???? Is the temp gauge indicating an over heat condition & if so is, or has the CEL been lit??? If so, do the upper or lower radiator hoses collapse when the engine is running since installing the new water pump????
Since the water pump has been replaced it means the cooling system has been drained & opened up, so how did the old coolant & things look inside???? Were the pump vanes ok, any rust or sludge in the pump area, or visible in the block???? Clues on the internal condition of those things can help decide what the condition the radiator & block cooling passages may be in & where the excessive pressure may be coming from.
You say the cooling system has been checked ok for gasses, so I assume you mean exhaust gases from a leaking or blown head gasket???
A faulty radiator cap that doesn't hold pressure can cause the coolant to boil when the engine is at operating temp, so has the radiator cap been tested, or replaced & if replaced, was the new cap tested to make sure its good????
Releasing the radiator cap lowers system pressure & can cause the coolant to boil when the engine is at operating temp, so we need some radiator cap input.
When you replaced the water pump, did you also replace the thermostat with OEM, or a like one with the air bleed valve design????
When refilling the cooling system, if you didn't use, or don't have an air bleed valve design thermostat, did you elevate the front end & run the engine with the front end elevated until the thermostat opened, so any trapped air could make its way past the thermostat & back to the radiator to be burped out by a properly functioning radiator cap????
After completely cooling, a coolant overflow tank level drop will tell if the system burped & topped itself off.
SO, we need some more details before suggesting condemning the radiator at this point.

 

What's is cel? New oem stat but I pulled it out and I by passed the heater core water pump is fine and fan clutch is good. I have not had the cap tested. I know the system build a hell of a lot of pressure an will let very little out in the tank and when it stops letting the 3-4 ounces out into the tank, there is still enough pressure that the upper hose is bulging and looks like it is about to pop. I have no check the lower house to see if it is collapsing, but if the radiator doesn't drain does that mean it won't circulate?

 

CEL = Check Engine Light.
Ok, good feedback & good idea to have used the OEM thermostat with the air bleed valve, as that'll help properly burp the cooling system after a refill.
Was it doing this over pressure thing Before the cooling system work????
If so, what condition was the old coolant in & how did the old water pump vanes look & how did the coolant passages in the block around the water pump look????
If the radiator is plugged, the lower radiator hose may be collapsing, so check that out.
If the radiator drain is plugged, it suggests the radiator at least has some sludge in it, but the condition of the old coolant, water pump vanes & what you did, or didn't find in the engine block after removing the old water pump, will give us important clues about the radiators possible condition.
Right now, with the info you've posted, its not clear to me where the over pressure is coming from.
Could be a leaking head gasket, rusted/sludged up block that's not properly conducting heat to the coolant, questionable radiator cap, plugged radiator, or some combination there-of, so we need answers to All of my questions to begin getting a better picture & yield some more clues about what may be going on with your cooling system.

 

I don't have a cel on, I'm not sure if it was getting that much pressure before because I bought it and drove it 2 miles and took it apart. I didn't put the new pump on, the man that had it before me did. When I had the heads off, there was a fair amount of rust colored sludge about the texture of the yolk in a boiled egg haha. That sludge was in the neck of the radiator and the cooling jackets. I'm having a really hard time explaining it but when it heats up is when I drive it, if I park and let it idle then the temp will very slowly come down.

 

OK, having had the heads off & seeing the cooling system sludge is good feedback. SO, you may have more than one problem. A clogged up radiator & a slugged up block cooling passages.
Have you tried flushing the cooling system to get as much crud out of it as possible???
With the temp coming down some at idle, it sounds like you have some coolant circulation, but not enough flow & the block passages are likely clogged up & have poor heat conduction from surface crud too.
Have you looked at the lower radiator hose to see if its collapsed when the engine is at fast idle???

 

I will check the lower hose when I get home from work tonight, what is the best but least expensive way to flush the system? I have only used purple power degreaser so far, I can't afford to buy a bunch of blue devil or stuff like that, I literally have no money and can't make money until the truck is fixed because I use my truck for work

 

Prestone has some good products that are safe to use & affordable. Even more affordable if we use online discount codes at places like Advance Auto, ect.
They market a "T" adapter kit that allows us to use a garden hose to back flush the heater, engine block & radiator, so I'd suggest trying that, to get as much loose muck out until the water coming out runs clear, then add their heavy duty de-scaler & run it as directed & back flush the system again until it runs clear & see how it goes. If that doesn't seem to improve flow enough to get things close to normal & you still suspect the radiator is clogged up, consider having it boiled out at a trusted cooling system/radiator shop, before replacing it. If you have to replace the radiator, consider online discount codes at Advance, I got a really nice replacement radiator for my 94 Taurus about 5 years ago @ 40% off, using codes here. http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
Be sure to get the radiator cap tested & make sure its the specified pressure range.

 

I got that flushing t kit last night an will try it today, also the cap is a 13 lb cap idk if that's the right one or not, also how do I test the cap?

 

Most autoparts stores can/will test the radiator cap at no cost. It looks like the 13 psi cap is the right range, it has a max range of 16 psi.
Keep us posted on how the cooling system flush goes.
Remember most home water systems have about 60 psi, so don't position the garden hose valve wide open & pop something in the cooling system.

 

Ok so I have found that there is a silicone like material in the bottom of the radiator, I'm assuming it is head gasket repair. How can I get it out? It seems to be in there pretty tight