6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Just wanna check make sure I'm on the right track on steering box issue

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  #1  
Old 05-28-2015, 10:11 AM
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Just wanna check make sure I'm on the right track on steering box issue

So at low speeds not so bad but wheel still likes to pull left and right. I got on the highway though and it was pulling left and right bad, looked like I was doing a pace lap in Nascar, had to fight it the whole tI'm at highway speed. Does this sound like sterring box issue? 2004 f350 4x4 thanks
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:10 AM
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Yep, same thing mine is starting to do.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:25 PM
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Same here. Check out the front end to make sure.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:10 PM
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Also look at ball joints, end links, on steering, track bar. All the components have to be investigated.
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:25 AM
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When my F350 was doing this it was the u-joints in the front steering knuckles, changed them out and the truck drives like new. May not be your problem but it cured mine. The steering gear is the last place I would look if my truck was pulling left and/or right, that's not to say it won't ultimately be the problem..... it's just unlikely if there isn't a lot of play in the steering wheel. My money is on some other front end parts and the u-joints is where I'd look first. jmho
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:15 PM
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It could very well be your steering gear, but you need to check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner/outer drag link. In a steering gear setup, we're basically just stacking tolerances on top of each other from the point where drag link connects at the pitman arm all the way to the wheels.

Once you're thru with this, check your alignment: .1 degree toe in, +/- .25 degrees. (I have my truck set up with .25 degree toe in. At a minimum, I would run no less than neutral on toe in. You can have toe out and still be within spec, but I would not advise this).

You will always have to counter steer to a small degree against the crown of the road surface on a steering gear setup. If you're drifting between the lines - bumping the steering to the left or right to compensate for drift, then it'll be your steering gear if all else checks out.

Another sign of the steering gear slop is when you go around a curve in the road, and upon exiting the curve and straightening the wheel, if you have to counter steer slightly back the other way because the truck is still slightly turning, then it's your gear.

As an FYI, I just replaced my 2 year old garbage Red Head steering gear with a NAPA unit 2 weeks ago. My Ford guy could not get a Motorcraft unit, so I tried the NAPA. It's too soon to tell how long it will last, but so far I'm happy with it. If I wanted to, I could turn the wheel lock to lock standing still with 1 finger. I kinda like the power of it.

Also someone enlighten me - I don't see any way the front axle u-joints would cause drift or alignment issues. As I see it, as it relates to alignment and drift issues, the front u-joints are passive and "just along for the ride"
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Carolina Rig
It could very well be your steering gear, but you need to check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner/outer drag link. In a steering gear setup, we're basically just stacking tolerances on top of each other from the point where drag link connects at the pitman arm all the way to the wheels.

Once you're thru with this, check your alignment: .1 degree toe in, +/- .25 degrees. (I have my truck set up with .25 degree toe in. At a minimum, I would run no less than neutral on toe in. You can have toe out and still be within spec, but I would not advise this).

You will always have to counter steer to a small degree against the crown of the road surface on a steering gear setup. If you're drifting between the lines - bumping the steering to the left or right to compensate for drift, then it'll be your steering gear if all else checks out.

Another sign of the steering gear slop is when you go around a curve in the road, and upon exiting the curve and straightening the wheel, if you have to counter steer slightly back the other way because the truck is still slightly turning, then it's your gear.

As an FYI, I just replaced my 2 year old garbage Red Head steering gear with a NAPA unit 2 weeks ago. My Ford guy could not get a Motorcraft unit, so I tried the NAPA. It's too soon to tell how long it will last, but so far I'm happy with it. If I wanted to, I could turn the wheel lock to lock standing still with 1 finger. I kinda like the power of it.

Also someone enlighten me - I don't see any way the front axle u-joints would cause drift or alignment issues. As I see it, as it relates to alignment and drift issues, the front u-joints are passive and "just along for the ride"
These u-joints move when ever you steer the wheel and when the cross gets dry enough of grease it will bind, hence when you steer it one way and it binds you have a tendency to over steer it to correct the drift and then it goes beyond center and drifts to the opposite side so you counter steer it and it starts all over....if you get my drift. I suppose it could have been a coincidence that replacing mine fixed the problem.....but I'm not buying it.
 
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Old 05-29-2015, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcrafty1
These u-joints move when ever you steer the wheel and when the cross gets dry enough of grease it will bind, hence when you steer it one way and it binds you have a tendency to over steer it to correct the drift and then it goes beyond center and drifts to the opposite side so you counter steer it and it starts all over....if you get my drift. I suppose it could have been a coincidence that replacing mine fixed the problem.....but I'm not buying it.

I do catch your drift (no pun intended!)

I hit the zerks in mine every couple of months so they stay in good shape.
 
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:57 AM
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To the OP, definitely look at your ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, etc for wear. I'm thinking if the steering gear is worn out, those parts may be too. I had to replace my steering gear, but because it was leaking, not because it was acting funny. After putting in the new gearbox, I noticed my steering seemed a lot better, but my tie rod ends and ball joints are getting pretty worn and it has definitely loosened up again.

Originally Posted by Carolina Rig
It could very well be your steering gear, but you need to check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and inner/outer drag link. In a steering gear setup, we're basically just stacking tolerances on top of each other from the point where drag link connects at the pitman arm all the way to the wheels.

Once you're thru with this, check your alignment: .1 degree toe in, +/- .25 degrees. (I have my truck set up with .25 degree toe in. At a minimum, I would run no less than neutral on toe in. You can have toe out and still be within spec, but I would not advise this).

You will always have to counter steer to a small degree against the crown of the road surface on a steering gear setup. If you're drifting between the lines - bumping the steering to the left or right to compensate for drift, then it'll be your steering gear if all else checks out.

Another sign of the steering gear slop is when you go around a curve in the road, and upon exiting the curve and straightening the wheel, if you have to counter steer slightly back the other way because the truck is still slightly turning, then it's your gear.

As an FYI, I just replaced my 2 year old garbage Red Head steering gear with a NAPA unit 2 weeks ago. My Ford guy could not get a Motorcraft unit, so I tried the NAPA. It's too soon to tell how long it will last, but so far I'm happy with it. If I wanted to, I could turn the wheel lock to lock standing still with 1 finger. I kinda like the power of it.

Also someone enlighten me - I don't see any way the front axle u-joints would cause drift or alignment issues. As I see it, as it relates to alignment and drift issues, the front u-joints are passive and "just along for the ride"
I've had a redhead box for a few years with no issues, just curious what makes you think so lowly of them. This is the first time I've heard anything negative regarding their products. Also makes me wonder what makes the Napa version so much better, just as a comparison. Do they rebuild ford units too, or is it something completely different?
 
  #10  
Old 05-30-2015, 09:54 AM
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There have been a couple of posts over the years in different forums about issues with RedHead boxes. I'm guessing but I believe it coincides when they do a group buy and get into over production, or maybe they have to use marginal products for rebuild rather then being more picky. Again, JMO.
 
  #11  
Old 06-01-2015, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by billbot
To the OP, definitely look at your ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link, etc for wear. I'm thinking if the steering gear is worn out, those parts may be too. I had to replace my steering gear, but because it was leaking, not because it was acting funny. After putting in the new gearbox, I noticed my steering seemed a lot better, but my tie rod ends and ball joints are getting pretty worn and it has definitely loosened up again.



I've had a redhead box for a few years with no issues, just curious what makes you think so lowly of them. This is the first time I've heard anything negative regarding their products. Also makes me wonder what makes the Napa version so much better, just as a comparison. Do they rebuild ford units too, or is it something completely different?

Just one of those transactions that, honestly, was annoying from the start, and yes, I am a bit dissatisfied with the product. The annoying part was primarily the then 16-year old sounding, disinterested kid they had answering the phone. The first unit was a leaker, so I had to deal with the kid again... charged me full price/core on the new unit until I had returned the leaker. That was 2.5 years ago, or 25K miles. The gear gave up about 8 months ago and I've been driving it with the drift. At that time, I did ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link too. Axle u-joints were fine.

I don't know that the NAPA version is any better than the Motorcraft. I tried to get the Motorcraft gear, but my local Ford guy said they are in a parts shortage and couldn't give me a lead time on availability. So I just bought the NAPA gear. The Napa unit's housing looks a bit different than the Motorcraft gear. If I end up getting a motorcraft down the road, I'll just use the red head as my core.

Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
There have been a couple of posts over the years in different forums about issues with RedHead boxes. I'm guessing but I believe it coincides when they do a group buy and get into over production, or maybe they have to use marginal products for rebuild rather then being more picky. Again, JMO.
Sounds reasonable to me.
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 03:07 PM
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Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with them. Hopefully the Napa version works out better for you.
 
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:23 AM
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Wanted to give an update on my readhead box.

Today I had my truck in the shop to have the front end looked at for loose steering . Seems like it's been getting sloppier lately. Ball joints and tie rod ends checked ok. I was happy to hear they didn't need replacing yet (saving that for this winter)

The only excessive play that could be found was in the steering gear....The shop adjusted the box, and went for a test drive but it's still no good. I called redhead and they looked me up. It had been 2yrs and 1 month since I installed their box. I don't drive my truck everyday anymore, so I'm guessing maybe 20k miles. They offered to discount another one, which was nice.

Tomorrow I'm having a cardone installed. We'll see how that one holds up. Heard good and bad about theirs too.
 
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:52 PM
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Iv had my eye on a Redhead box for awhile. Now Im starting to think its not worth the $400 price tag. Thanks for the update!
 
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:18 AM
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I was thinking I had a bad steering box also until I found a hub bearing that needed replaced. Long story short i found a upper ball joint that was binding along with a U joint that was also binding. I ended up rebuilding both sides and I no longer have the wondering and dead spot in the steering.
 


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