Brakes
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 91
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From: Fort Wayne
Brakes
I have an '03 e350 super duty stripped chassis (kuv utility body).
I've been doing my own brakes for almost 30 yrs for a little background, using the correct tools, no vise grips or c-clamps on calipers here.
I put a new caliper on pass side front back in Jan, due to collapsed hose and snapping bleeder screw off. Decided to replace all front brakes - rotors, bearings/seals, pads. Ended up replacing driver side caliper because pistons pushed back really hard, properly bled. Now it seems the calipers are dragging the pads slightly, rotors/pads are smelling hot and starting to blue my new rotors. What the heck else in the system could be causing the calipers to not release/pads to drag?? I am drawing a total blank here.
Other side note - checked rear brakes, they are going to be due for a full change here real soon too. From what I have been able to find, the strip chassis vans use the DRW rear disc setup. It has a Dana 70 axle, and it looks to me like I am going to need to pull the axles and remove the hub in order to remove the rear discs, can someone confirm/deny?
Thanks
I've been doing my own brakes for almost 30 yrs for a little background, using the correct tools, no vise grips or c-clamps on calipers here.
I put a new caliper on pass side front back in Jan, due to collapsed hose and snapping bleeder screw off. Decided to replace all front brakes - rotors, bearings/seals, pads. Ended up replacing driver side caliper because pistons pushed back really hard, properly bled. Now it seems the calipers are dragging the pads slightly, rotors/pads are smelling hot and starting to blue my new rotors. What the heck else in the system could be causing the calipers to not release/pads to drag?? I am drawing a total blank here.
Other side note - checked rear brakes, they are going to be due for a full change here real soon too. From what I have been able to find, the strip chassis vans use the DRW rear disc setup. It has a Dana 70 axle, and it looks to me like I am going to need to pull the axles and remove the hub in order to remove the rear discs, can someone confirm/deny?
Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
just did same brake job on my E350 clubwagon , did your new pads come with shims/noise control "thingys"? sometimes they come along with ceramic pads ..........................but you actually don't have room in there for them. when you jack the wheels off the ground is there any noticeable drag?
BTW ceramic pads on these vans usually wear out your rotors before the pads wear out. and will "scream' pretty quickly.
I can't help you on the rear brakes, mine has a 60 semifloat.
BTW ceramic pads on these vans usually wear out your rotors before the pads wear out. and will "scream' pretty quickly.
I can't help you on the rear brakes, mine has a 60 semifloat.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
IMHO and 30 years experience when one side brake parts need replaced its best to do both sides. Unless we're talking a new/reman'd part failing within a few months of being replaced its just good practice.
Since one flexible line failed its very likely the opposite side is/was just as old and subject to the same collapse. If you're 100% positive its not the plumbing from the master cylinder to the affected side time to check the ABS module. Frankly though this sounds like the flex line is the problem.
If the caliper slide bolts weren't replaced with new or at least cleaned with emery cloth to remove all corrosion etc then properly lubricated that too could be part of the issues you're having.
Sometimes even us old dogs skip a step or two.
Since one flexible line failed its very likely the opposite side is/was just as old and subject to the same collapse. If you're 100% positive its not the plumbing from the master cylinder to the affected side time to check the ABS module. Frankly though this sounds like the flex line is the problem.
If the caliper slide bolts weren't replaced with new or at least cleaned with emery cloth to remove all corrosion etc then properly lubricated that too could be part of the issues you're having.
Sometimes even us old dogs skip a step or two.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 91
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From: Fort Wayne
when one side brake parts need replaced its best to do both sides
Both reman'd calipers came with new bolts, and I did double check the slides on both calipers (another old fart habit). I'll get it up in the air and take the tire off again tonight.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
Remove the shims on the back of the pads....
[QUOTE=68Mercury250Ranger;15389916]just did same brake job on my E350 clubwagon , did your new pads come with shims/noise control "thingys"? sometimes they come along with ceramic pads ..........................but you actually don't have room in there for them. when you jack the wheels off the ground is there any noticeable drag?
Many Thanks, this was a big help to me as my new pads/rotor would not fit. After removing the shims all is good.
Many Thanks, this was a big help to me as my new pads/rotor would not fit. After removing the shims all is good.
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