When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thats a negative on the cracked flywheel plate, im too scared to run it anymore for further inspection in not wanting to throw a rod through the block or ruin it any other way, I will need a good core to exchange for the reman engine.
Dropped the EX off with the ford dealer yesterday and hopefully hear some news tomorrow on the diagnosis of the knocking sound. I have been driving and just taking it easy and have had no real issues so far. The knocking has not gotten worse or gone away. Depending what the mech says at the dealership will be when i make a choice on having them do the work or doing it myself. All really depends on price and what kind of work needs to be done. Wish me luck.
So far the mech is saying the knock is isolated to the #9 piston which is the one I did the blown spark plug repair on. I explained to him everything that happened and what I did up to this point and he's doing more troubleshooting today and will hopefully have it more narrowed down for me. It looks like my options are bent lifter, cracked/broken spring or loose or broken rocker arm. He also thinks it could be a bent exhaust valve.
So from my understanding Im pretty sure this head will have to come off regardless what repair will need to be done ?
If it is a valve spring or rocker arm it can be done without removing the head. It is a huge pain but it can be done. I recently had a valve spring break on that number 9 cylinder and replaced the spring with the head still on.
With a broken valve spring mine idled terribly (misfire) and set codes for misfires on 9 & 10 though. It sounded like it had a terrible exhaust leak, but no knocking sound. I wouldn't give up on that engine yet. Mine has plenty of miles on it and as far as I know the valve spring is the only thing that has been replaced internally. If it is just a top end problem I would probably R&R it.
Looking on the bright side, With the heads off the spark plug threads will be easier to fix
Bummer on starting out on a sour note, hopefully once this is behind you things will go smoother and you can get down to doing some of the fun mods.
being that it has been an alaskan truck since built i was expecting problems. If this is my biggest issues im satified with it. Regardless the work i do to it i will be happy with it. Iv always wanted one of these trucks and now that i have one im not going to part with. May end up getting another one (7.3 ) in the future.
Originally Posted by BigBair
If it is a valve spring or rocker arm it can be done without removing the head. It is a huge pain but it can be done. I recently had a valve spring break on that number 9 cylinder and replaced the spring with the head still on.
With a broken valve spring mine idled terribly (misfire) and set codes for misfires on 9 & 10 though. It sounded like it had a terrible exhaust leak, but no knocking sound. I wouldn't give up on that engine yet. Mine has plenty of miles on it and as far as I know the valve spring is the only thing that has been replaced internally. If it is just a top end problem I would probably R&R it.
that was a good right up, iv used one of the valve compressors before so im hoping that is my issue as well. The mech at the dealership didnt say if he did any compression tests, all he said was he did a power ballance and ran codes with good results. At point he wanted to do more but wanted to wait till he got with me before he went further and cost me more. I picked it up today and all he told me was that it is isolated at that #9 to what he can tell. Im going off that and will be pulling the valve cover off again to check further. And if i cant find anything im going to go ahead and gets parts together for removing the head. While im doing that ill most likely do exhaust manifold studs on both sides and timing chain guide and tensioner since the front plate will be off. As well as all the little maintenance that needs to be done (belt, vacume hoses, spark plugs, etc.). Ill keep updating as i go.
So I read about this today and went ahead and tore it apart after winterizing my TT today looks like I'm going to get some of my co workers to re do it for me
Pulled the driver side valve cover off and looked like evertying was in place where it needed to be and no obvious signs of busted valve springs. I did find that the (ballance bar/ shaft?) its above the cam shaft with the smaller gear, does move and make some noise. Im sure that there is supposed to be some play in this but i was able to mimic the kind of sound that i hear when the engine is running. I made a video of it and you can hear the sound pretty good i wil up load it soon hopefully tonight if i remember.
I also pulled all the spark plugs our and checked them. They have been replaced already but found a few discrepencies. First off i found that 6 of them were loose and came out with no real resistance. Idk how they had no blown out yet. Also my repair i did with the TimeCert kit came out with the spark plug. The red locktite did not hold. Idt i put enough but that is kinda of an easy fix but had to wait till next time. I also found that one of the other plugs had blown out previously in this truck and they had replaced it with a spacer and a spark plug that looks like it goes in one of the 2008+ models engine with the extended length. I will up load those pics as well. Idt that repair was done right but its w/e. I have the TimeCert kit so i will have to do that one as well next time. I also found that 4 of the plugs on the passenger side were pretty rusted up. Im guessing due to the "leak" that these trucks have in the weather stripping between the hood and engine bay near the windsheild. I think i saved that thread on how to fix that problem in my account so i will be doing that sooner than later.
Im going to replace all the spark plugs within the next week or so and i think im going to continue with the idea of replacing the engine and start over new. I have been doing some run around and im looking at 3k-3500$ for a reman engine from Autozone shipped. Im hoping to have this done within the next 6months if everything falls together with my schedule.
Here's a vid of the diver side. This is close to the noise I hear. I know that there is supposed to be some play in the valvetrane but is this too much? Any suggestions?
After a long and drawn out process I'm going to sell this dog, I will for sure be looking for a 6.0 EX when I get back to Texas though. Sure will miss this truck though. I was really looking forward to finishing it and getting it to where I wanted but I have no time left to even take care of the small things that needs to be done to it. Gotta cut my loses and hope for the best at this point. O well, small tear.