When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Swapped the bodies on the truck last weekend. Truck would not start, had to rewire the ECM. Now, truck starts, but does not shut off with ignition switch. In order to shut the truck off you have to disconnect the neg wire from the battery. I know the alt is not wired yet.
New ignition switch, third one... Eliminated as problem.
New solonoid, third one... Eliminated as problem.
I feel this is definitely something done in the wiring.
Sounds like the ECM wire that should get power only in start/run is hard-wired to a constant power source. May be that you got it and one that's supposed to get constant power swapped.
Sounds like the ECM wire that should get power only in start/run is hard-wired to a constant power source. May be that you got it and one that's supposed to get constant power swapped.
There is only one way the truck stays running, the wire on the dist is still getting power. Does it start like normal? when it is off with the battery connected, is it draining power? Are you sure the wires are correct on the solenoid?
What brian1080 said, but also check the ECM wire too with a voltmeter!
FYI, the coil wire should be attached to the I terminal on the starter solenoid/relay. It's what supplies full voltage to the coil for easy starts. And when running, coil is fed voltage through a resistor wire (about 8 volts).
The 3 wire plug:
1 wire (32 Red Blue) has power during start, and is the same wire that energizes the starter solenoid/relay.
1 wire (732 White) has power with ignition key in run.
If any of these are messed up, then you might have the symptoms you describe. If these wires are right, then the engine will stop when the key is off.
Any other relevant details you haven't included yet?
If you pull the little wire off the S terminal on the starter solenoid, does it stop? If so, you've got a wiring problem feeding the solenoid or a bad ignition switch; if not, you've got a bad solenoid.
Any other relevant details you haven't included yet?
If you pull the little wire off the S terminal on the starter solenoid, does it stop? If so, you've got a wiring problem feeding the solenoid or a bad ignition switch; if not, you've got a bad solenoid.
Definitely wiring. Yeah, engine does when you pull the wire off the S terminal.
I will check all this tomorrow and get back to you guys.
I and S cannot be switched, the truck will not start unless they are correct.
It should: the wire that should go to the I terminal ties in to the coil power feed after the resistor wire. If it gets hooked to the S terminal, then the starter solenoid will see ~8-9V when the ignition switch is in the run position - which should be enough to actuate it - so it'll be continually cranking with ignition switch in run.
Then, if you put the terminal that should go to S on I, it would be getting backfeed of +12V when the starter solenoid is activated; I'm not sure exactly how your wiring is set up, but there would be a feed from the ignition switch start position to the ignition module (and/or ECU in a fuel-injected setup) so that the engine can fire while cranking in order to start. Hooking the wire that should go to the S position to the I terminal is what supplies this circuit.
Easy enough to test whether that's what actually happened: swap 'em and see.
It should: the wire that should go to the I terminal ties in to the coil power feed after the resistor wire. If it gets hooked to the S terminal, then the starter solenoid will see ~8-9V when the ignition switch is in the run position - which should be enough to actuate it - so it'll be continually cranking with ignition switch in run.
Then, if you put the terminal that should go to S on I, it would be getting backfeed of +12V when the starter solenoid is activated; I'm not sure exactly how your wiring is set up, but there would be a feed from the ignition switch start position to the ignition module (and/or ECU in a fuel-injected setup) so that the engine can fire while cranking in order to start. Hooking the wire that should go to the S position to the I terminal is what supplies this circuit.
Easy enough to test whether that's what actually happened: swap 'em and see.
I swapped em, the truck will not start with them swapped. I have more time today to fool with it, four day weekend!
As soon as you put it in the start position. Right now the alt is not hooked up, so the only way to shut it off is to pull the negative terminal off the battery or the S or I wire.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.