What is your engine in your 1.5 ton?
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Junior User
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From: Germany
What is your engine in your 1.5 ton?
My truck is a 1940 01-U or 01-T (134" wheelbase, hood says 85HP V8). Because my engine is missing, I like to know what Flatheads are in your 1.5 ton trucks?
If Vanpelt is right, the original engine should be a 24 stud 221cui V8. Engine ID 41T? My transmission seems to be the original: Floorshift, parking brake at the transmission, non removable bellhousing and PTO.
If Vanpelt is right, the original engine should be a 24 stud 221cui V8. Engine ID 41T? My transmission seems to be the original: Floorshift, parking brake at the transmission, non removable bellhousing and PTO.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orcas Island Wa.
A lot depends on how original you want to keep it. Personally I would update to a '42-/47 24 stud 239 cu in '59 ab'. In my '47 2 ton I installed a '51 '8ba'. Any of the newer flatheads are a bolt in, but more modifications needed with the 8ba as far as cooling. Hose and radiator, belts, water pumps, pulleys. I once bought a '40 1.5 ton with a 401 cu in buick nailhead and an automatic. It was a cobbled up mess and I soon pulled it and installed a 302 and 4 speed from a local farmer's rusted out 1/2 ton. That was a really nice combo if you aren't going for original.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: SoCal - Redlands
The '40 1 1/2 ton I had that was original had a 99t engine with the 4 speed granny gear trans. The hood ornament had the 85 logo center button. I had another with an 8ba with the same trans set up. Personally I liked the 8ba set up best but that's just my opinion.
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Junior User
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From: Germany
Don't need to be original, but it should be a Flathead V8. The original engine has the great advantage that it fits without any modifications, but if I get you right, the 59AB will fit, too.
The 99T is a 100HP?
The 99T is a 100HP?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Houston
Any 24 stud flathead will bolt in with the correct combination of parts. The easiest will be a 1948 or earlier (59 series or pre-war back through 1939). In particular you will want the crankshaft mounted fan. The crankshaft mounted fan will work with any 1939 or later engine, you just need to use the matching crank pulley.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Webster, NY
I have a 1940 1-1/2 ton panel, dual wheels, 134" WB. My hood emblem reads 95 HP. The S/N prefix is 99T. The heads have 9T cast in them. It has a divers helmet distributor. 4-speed crashbox with PTO driving the fire pump.
According to VanPelt the truck has an 81A style block with 3.1875 Bore x 3.750 Stroke, 239 cu.in., 95 HP “Mercury” engine. 81T heads were OEM on trucks. 99T heads were sold for 100 HP 1939-1941 trucks.
Another benefit to the 8ba is better internal oiling. Truck and car oil pans are different some years.
According to VanPelt the truck has an 81A style block with 3.1875 Bore x 3.750 Stroke, 239 cu.in., 95 HP “Mercury” engine. 81T heads were OEM on trucks. 99T heads were sold for 100 HP 1939-1941 trucks.
Another benefit to the 8ba is better internal oiling. Truck and car oil pans are different some years.
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Cargo Master
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From: Houston
Technically 81A is correct only for 221 cubic inch engines. 99 is the designation for pre-war 239 motors. For anyone really wanting to learn flathead engine blocks, please read this thread from the Ford Barn: Engine block I.D. pictures - The Ford Barn
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 310
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From: Webster, NY
Fred, any idea why my heads have just "9T" raised characters? I looked again today and cannot find any other marking. I saw some head pictures lately that had whole part numbers and more as raised characters.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Houston
Your heads likely do have the part numbers cast in, just not where it is easy to see. 9T is the correct marking for 239 Truck heads. Ford stopped marking the entire part number on the visible face of the head somewhere around the 1938-1939 model change. Your head part number is probably cast into the back of the head, facing the intake manifold, above the block.
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Junior User
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From: Germany
I had much time the last weeks, so I looked around for a matching flathead. It's sad, but the flathead sales where very scarce over the last week. Only found a G29T and a 59AB but the price was to high.
Now I could have a Mercury 8CM. If I'm right, these engines are 255cui with up to 125HP. Is this the same engine as an 8BA just with bigger bore/stroke or is the block different?
Now I could have a Mercury 8CM. If I'm right, these engines are 255cui with up to 125HP. Is this the same engine as an 8BA just with bigger bore/stroke or is the block different?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orcas Island Wa.
Technically the block could be different, but any later flathead can make the change. You need a 4" stroke mercury crankshaft and the pistons with the wrist pin located properly for the longer strove. Bore stays the same, but most people running the merc crank want to bore the engine oversized as well. I did one for a tonner pickup in the 90s and even with stock bore it made a huge difference in pulling power. Way more torque. Not an easy crank to find.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: SoCal - Redlands
I had much time the last weeks, so I looked around for a matching flathead. It's sad, but the flathead sales where very scarce over the last week. Only found a G29T and a 59AB but the price was to high.
Now I could have a Mercury 8CM. If I'm right, these engines are 255cui with up to 125HP. Is this the same engine as an 8BA just with bigger bore/stroke or is the block different?
Now I could have a Mercury 8CM. If I'm right, these engines are 255cui with up to 125HP. Is this the same engine as an 8BA just with bigger bore/stroke or is the block different?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 138
From: Orcas Island Wa.
Just because the motor has 8CM on the heads doesn't mean it has a 4 inch stroke crank (don't ask how I know). If it is a Merc it will bolt in your 1 1/2 ton by using the 1/2 bell to allow you to bolt the original trans to the 8BA/8CM motor. There are 2 different 1/2 bells. The stamped steel is a Merc and it won't allow you to use an 11 inch clutch. The cast iron ones are from trucks and an 11 inch clutch will fit. You will need 8rt truck pumps to allow the motor to bolt to the front mounts. Merc pumps look like 8rt pumps but require a u shaped spacer between the pump mounting flange and the front mount. All 8rt pumps are wide belts. Early Mercs were wide belts but later went to narrow belts. Or you can fab a metal bracket that bolts to a set of car pumps and then use the stock front mounts. Let me know if you need a photo of such a set up. I took them off my '39 p/u and went with Merc narrow belt pumps and the u shaped spacers.
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