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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

T5/TKO swap into a bullnose!

 
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:10 PM
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T5/TKO swap into a bullnose!

Alright so there's been a few people ask me how to swap in a T5 or a TKO into a bullnose. Here's how I did mine in my '85 Flareside 2wd. Keep in mind this is for a street truck - not a work truck.
This truck was an original 5.0 fuelie with an AOD, I used factory pedals and column from an '84 and they're a straight bolt in plug and play. If the truck is a 1982 or older it will have manual clutch linkage. For this swap it's easier to get pedals from an '83-'86 pickup and drill three holes in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder.

I used the 7/8" bore factory master cylinder for an '85 F150






T5 swaps are common in Rangers, so while I was crusing through the Ranger Station I found that Russell fittings makes a clutch master cylinder adapter to convert the moulded nylon hose to a braided stainless line. The fitting for Ranger and F150 masters is the exact same. This makes life way easier.

For the bellhousing I was using a factory T5 bell, but for the TKO I'm using a Lakewood scattershield. Both will work just fine. As I found out, the starter for an '85 F150 AOD is the same one used for late model fox bodies with a T5. Same goes for the Lakewood scattershield.









The clutch I am using is made by RAM and designed for a TKO500-600 into a fox body Mustang. Street/strip with 26 spline input shaft, it should grab nicely.














Clutch install is the same as any other half ton clutch. The scattershield uses it's own block plate. Shorter bellhousing bolts are also needed.
 
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:22 PM
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The biggest challenge with this swap was figuring out clutch hydraulics. Oddly enough, the most popular slave cylinder to use in the Ranger crowd is from a 1993 Nissan 240sx. With a 3/4" bore it's matched with the master cylinder perfect, has two mounting ears for 3/8" bolts and a bleeder screw. The best part - it's dirt cheap at any parts store (usually $20 or less) Be warned though, the Dorman slave cylinders have the ears cast at angles so when mounting to a flat bracket it will crack the casing. I've been using a Wagner slave, they mount flat.




The pushrod is a 3/8" grade 8 bolt with the head cut off and rounded to fit the slave cylinder piston. With two jam nuts for adjustment I cut the head off of a carriage bolt (3/8" I think) and drilled a 3/8" hole through the center of it to seat the T5 clutch fork nicely. The TKO trans uses a T5 clutch fork as well. This might look and sound kinda backwoods at this point but once it's all together it looks like a bolt in kit.




Next is the slave cylinder bracket. I used a 2x2 piece of angle iron and cut it to fit around the trans. I made a template out of cardboard for the front of the trans, lined the slave and pushrod up to the fork and traced where it needed to be cut.













Mark and drill two holes in the scattershield. Use lock washers and loctite - you don't want them coming loose or the trans will be coming out to tighten them again





 
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:30 PM
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The hole for the shifter comes quite far back in comparison to a truck trans and it's pretty close to the seat. This isn't an issue for me as I always have the seat all the way back. If you're running buckets though, this isn't a problem. With a TKO however, you can buy rear, mid or front mount shifters to change the location. I opted to use the rear mount as I already had it and it's the same location as a T5.

I marked the hole in the floor by removing the shifter and installing the trans, then marking the center of the shifter location on the bottom of the floor. I then drilled a hole in the center and marked the square from that. There are other methods of doing this, but this worked well for me.




The shifter in the 2nd, 4th and reverse position comes close to the seat but does not hit it.



The driveshaft from the AOD was the same for the T5, just bolt in and go. They both have the smaller 28 spline output shafts. For the TKO however you need the larger 31 spline slip yoke as the output shafts are larger. A yoke from a C6 will fit. Swap this out and the length stays the same - no need for a custom shaft.


 
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:38 PM
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For the wiring, I used the pigtail from a Mustang harness for the reverse lights and spliced it into the factory wiring.
The neutral safety switch for the T5 was the same way. For the TKO however it's a different plug again. For the sake of tidiness and ease of removal, it's worth spending the $8 at a parts store and getting a couple of universal two wire sealed plugs. Makes the whole thing look factory




The speedometer went right into both transmissions, same as the AOD. They also use the same trans mount, this keeps the angles all the same. This whole swap is surprisingly bolt in and go. For the crossmember, I just flipped it around backwards. The bolts lined right up

Fun fact for others doing trans swaps. Ford appears to have used the same crossmember for a C6, AOD, T18 and NP435 according to the stamps. Turn it the other way and it's stamped SROD as well. I can't say for sure if this applies for 4wd trucks though. - EDIT: The crossmembers are the same for 4x4's as well. Thanks goes to Gary Lewis for the info




 
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:45 PM
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For a shifter stick I got a Hurst made for a '55-'57 Chevy car with a bench seat. Looks cool and fits awesome.







 
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:45 PM
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Slave cylinder and pushrod installed and adjusted. I like to have the piston almost bottomed out and the pushrod just holding tension on the clutch fork. This ensures that the piston doesn't get pushed out of the slave. In T5 and TKO transmissions, the release bearing has constant contact with the pressure plate fingers, this adjustment also makes sure that there is a small ammount of pressure on the release bearing to keep it spinning.



The shifter installed with the new boot. Will have the seat installed in the next couple of days, need to vaccuum it too

 
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Old 06-08-2015, 01:20 PM
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The truck is back on the road and working great. The TKO shifts great with the pro5.0 shifter. It's exactly how everybody says - they shift a lot more "notchy" than a T5. I didn't know really what they meant until i drove it. I really like it! The RAM clutch grabs really hard and still has manners from stop light to stop light. Also got the new rubber on the back.


 
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Old 06-14-2015, 08:39 AM
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Great write up! Thanks!
 
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:37 AM
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Glad I could help
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:57 AM
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I plan on doing a t5 in my 86f150, but I plan on using the stock bellhousing. Does this matter when going with a Nissan 240sx slave cylinder and making a bracket, or can I use my brackets from my manual trans I'm using now?
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:52 AM
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Being over a year old thread don't know if the OP will see this.

Going back over his thread on the slave and me doing a T5 swap into an AMC car using Jeep bell housing & parts the only issue I can see is how to mount the slave.



I don't think the stock Ford bell housing will have that flat area like the SFI bell he used has. I would say before you bolt the bell & trany in the truck to bolt the bell to trany and see about mocking up the slave mounting on the bench.

BTW my car used most of the linkage from the car. Jeep parts were Bell housing, clutch assy., fork and adjustment rod.
Dave ----
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 86f250-rs View Post
I plan on doing a t5 in my 86f150, but I plan on using the stock bellhousing. Does this matter when going with a Nissan 240sx slave cylinder and making a bracket, or can I use my brackets from my manual trans I'm using now?
When I had the T5 in it I used a factory fox body bellhousing. There was more room on it to mount the slave than my Lakewood bellhousing had. I just used a piece of 2x2" angle iron. Let me know if you need anything!
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 86f250-rs View Post
I plan on doing a t5 in my 86f150, but I plan on using the stock bellhousing. Does this matter when going with a Nissan 240sx slave cylinder and making a bracket, or can I use my brackets from my manual trans I'm using now?




Here's a pic I found online. I<br/>Mounted mine the same. Hope this helps
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:56 PM
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I'm just looking into doing the swap during winter/ spring. I'm waiting on a world class t5 to pop up for sale near me first. I would love a tremec t5, but not in my price range right now
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 86f250-rs View Post
I'm just looking into doing the swap during winter/ spring. I'm waiting on a world class t5 to pop up for sale near me first. I would love a tremec t5, but not in my price range right now
You have to watch on the used ones they have not been beat to death.


I was given a WC T5 that "blew up" and was started to be taken apart. I did not find any broken or chipped gears but the input shaft was toast, all syncros warn down and some of the needles for the needle bearings were in the bottom of the case.


I rebuilt it replacing ANY THING I did not like the looks of. I also added some hop up parts to help it live longer. It was $1000 just in parts.
I think I would have been better off getting one thru Summit Racing with a warranty.

Dave ----
 

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