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Does anyone know if the some of the engine parts on the 390,406.427,will work on a 1966 352 2BBL automatic F100.
Some say it is basically the same block just different bore.
Mainly i am looking for the other parts of the engine, pulleys,brackets(alt,power steering)water pump, headers,intake, etc.
Does anyone know if the some of the engine parts on the 390/406/427, will work on a 1966 F100 352 2V
Mainly i am looking for the other parts of the engine: pulleys, brackets (alt, power steering), water pump, headers, intake, etc.
Harmonic balancer, single/double/triple sheave accessory outer pulleys that bolt to it: 1960/67 Ford Passenger Car 352/390 & 1966/67 410/428 / 1965/67 F100/350 352.
1960/67 harmonic balancer has 3 mounting holes to bolt the pulleys on.
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1968/76 FE harmonic balancer/pulleys are different as are 406 (1962/63) & 427 (1963/68).
1968/76 harmonic balancer has 4 mounting holes to bolt the pulleys on.
FE waterpump with alternator same: 1963/64 Thunderbird, 1965/76 all.
Alt, P/S brackets selective, some are the same 1965/72 FE car/truck, others are 1965/67 F100/350 352 only.
Thanks guys for all the help.
I have found most of the parts i need from the 360 & 390 engine.
Its a one owner truck with 106,000 original miles on it.
It runs good ,just now replacing the rear main oil seal in it, it started to leak a few months back.
It runs good ,just now replacing the rear main oil seal in it, it started to leak a few months back.
BRBuchanan: I hope this note reaches you before you start on the rear main oil seal.
The FE engines - including the 352, 360 and 390 - have a nasty habit of leaking at the back of the intake, but make it look like it is the oil seal instead of the rear of the intake gasket.
As for being a leak, it is easy to identify and much easier to fix than the rear main.
To check and identify, the backside of the engine MUST be dry from oil, and water, too, if you can get it that dry. I did, just to make sure. Use your sense of touch frequently.
I spray almost an entire can of engine cleaner to make sure as well, and then use one of the car-wash wands to get the worst off.
Before leaving the car wash, I make sure it is as dry as possible, then take it for a 5 minute ride.
Feel out side the back of the heads, intake and block.
If there is any wetness, you have a leak there, not down below.
I know it seems improbable, but this is a common problem.
John, thank you very much for the info. I will try that before i go any further on it. It looks
like its coming from both places but hopefully just the intake.
That would save some $ for sure.
I am replacing the 80lb stock intake with a Edelbrock 2105. I am thinking about replacing the whole distributor while i have it out. Any suggestion on if i should, and if so what would be the best kind to replace it with, just a good replacement for the stock one?
Bobby
Ford F100 352 2BBL Automatic
Personally, I like to do one project at a time, but other than that, now is a good time to upgrade to electronic ignition.
(I would just finish out the intake - which is a great idea, by the way! - and make sure the engine runs right before changing distributors or ignition systems.)
You have a couple of choices here.
One type of electronic ignition uses the original points distributor, but replaces the internal points parts with electronic ones. There are several brands, but they are aftermarket. Other posters will need to add their thoughts on the different brands, as I am not familiar with them.
The other type uses the Ford factory electronic ignition system harvested from later engines.
For Ford FE engines, that would be up to '76.
(Some people use GM electronic ignition distributors - but that area of knowledge is out of my ken.)
If you harvest the entire wiring system and "brain box" you get the factory look and reliability of electronic ignition. DuraSpark II is Ford's name for it.
Easy enough to wire into your current wiring harness without cutting original wires, and easy to maintain. I also prefer the factory DSII because I can walk into any parts store and tell them I need XYZ part for a 1975 Ford 390, and they will have the brain box, the pickup parts inside the distributor and the entire distributor as well, if I need it.
That is much easier and quicker than using an aftermarket system, which might make it a bit difficult to get replacement parts for the ones that got fried on a Saturday.
Just my opinions.
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