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This is the second time. Had it towed to repair shop. They replace Ignition control module, a coil(pack?, not the old school coil) And put in a manufactured distributor. I drove it home, replaced battery, it was bad. All seemed well till I got 1 block from home and it quit again, had it towed home this time. Volt meter reads 12.0 vlts on battery, but no hint of turning over, red light on dash lights up as usual, any ideas, thank you. John
Also, after the time of the first stalling, the heater and radio don't work, checked fuses, all seem good. also while waiting for help, I noticed that the fusible link from the battery side terminal of relay had blown. This was the wire type, went to a factory 3 to 1 connection. I wire nutted it together to see if I could get it running. So after the repair shop, I attached a smaller gauge fusible link to each wire separately (hoping to isolate any problem). They remain intact
With a working test light, tested starter relay. when key is turned to start, the terminal to the starter side does not light up, the small guage red wire to a small ternimal( i assume this is the activating wire) lights up, notable dimmer than when put on the battery terminals. From this I'm assuming that the relay needs replacing and will do so, but does that have any effect on the sudden quitting out while driving?
12.0 volts is flat battery, should read 12.6-12.7 if fully charged. Have you checked the voltage at battery while the engine is running? Should read 13.8-14.3 volts is all is okay.
Yes the battery was down a bit, fixed that. I used a jumper wire from pos. terminal to "s" terminal on solenoid , I had been calling it a relay, and the motor turned fine, but with key on , no start. I used the test light on the ignition switch and found no hot leads. I just recalled, that a minute before the engine quit first time, the smell of electrical . My current theory is that main power lead to the ignition switch is compromised. Need to located wiring diagram and try that route, anybody experience anything like that?
What did you figure out on yours? I have an '88 E-250 doing the same. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light. No lights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
I used the multi meter to determine that there was a 4+ amp parasitic draw. Right after this all started, I separated a group of wires that attached to the relay/silinode with individual loop hooks and fusible links, to help find the draw. It turned out that the main wire to the alternator, which had been rubbed to bare wire, this had caused the circuit board in the alt to fry. When testing I had put power to it by itself, and it ended lighting up a bunch circuits. I am about to replace the alt and see how things test out
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