Are you running this through one of your ballast resistor? Which one?

RU4 resistor that measures 2 ohms and a RU11 that measures .5 ohms

Jim

 

no added resistors

 

At this point I would just check the coil positive voltage again after you get it running.

Jim

 

If you do the math on a .45 ohm coil it will scare most people.

Condition: KEY ON engine not running, DS2 ignition module, .45 ohm coil

12 volts divided by .45 ohms will give you 26.6 amps of current

Stock would be in the 4-5 amp range.


Jim

 

So no added resistor needed ? Do I still need the wire for starting ?
I found this on another forum,
The manufacturer specifies a primary resistance. That is the sum of the coil resistance plus the resistance of the much understood "pink" wire. The primary circuit resistance should not be less than the manufacturer's resistance. Guys go less and burn up coils for hot spark. Guys go more and end up with misfires.

 

What is your current source for powering the coil positive?
The stock truck wiring has a splice on the left inner fender ... S216 ... on the wiring diagram in post 9.
If you are downstream of that point you wont need to add a "start wire"

Jim

 

I used the wiring harness and just made contact with the + on the horseshoe connector and the + on the coil.

 

Are you using a DS2 IGN wiring harness from an older truck?

 

yes, from an 82 Bronco

 

Good answer, just plug it all together and start it up.
I would still check the coil positive voltage at idle, just to be sure.

Jim

 

Thanks for the help

 

While the 5.35 volts appears to be low, I think the difference is that you grounded the negative side of the coil - as I suggested. But the ignition system doesn't truly take it fully to ground. More like only to about 1.4 volts if I remember correctly. So, it would be about 7 volts, and the resistance wire appears to be working properly.

 

I was worried about it being low. I thought more battery voltage might help it because the battery was showing right at 12.
Thanks for all your help

 

Try it this way. It should work fine and you'll be happy. But if the spark isn't hot and blue then you can add a resistor and come off the battery with a relay.

 

Since a lot of people like me find the info they need by searching forums like this, I thought I'd add this for those who may run across it.....

If you don't have the harness for coil power, it's not an issue since the only other wires in this piece of harness are for the gauges and they will still function correctly with the original harness. Just swapped over my father's '85 302 this weekend and only had the distributor harness myself. As everyone has mentioned the resistor wire is there. It's the fat red with green stripe wire on the left fenderwell and it is changed to a smaller brown with pink stripe wire after the connector. Just cut the brown/pink wire, connect a splice to it, and run it to the DSII coil positive.

Conversely, you can also just cut and safety the resistor bypass wire which is white with blue spots. It's spliced into the brown/pink wire about halfway down the harness so you have to remove the tape to get to it. Also, at that point the brown/pink wire changes to white/blue and goes to the TFI coil. Then you can just use the white/blue wire straight from the TFI coil although it most likely won't reach the DSII coil without an extension if you put it on the right side of the engine (I had the full bracket so mounted it with a bolt on the vacant air pump bracket, old coil wire reached then...couldn't use the factory spot due to the EEC temperature sending unit in the heater hose fitting blocking the space). Also if you pull the computer harness out like I did you wouldn't want to bother doing this although you need to unwrap and rewrap that harness to clean it up to retain the gauge wires and new coil wire . I just posted it since I was curious as to where the bypass splice was and took the harness apart anyway.

If you have absolutely no harnesses the job is still very easy as it's only a few wires to splice anyway. You just have to cut the plug off the DSII distributor and splice in the three wires from the TFI harness that will now be hooked up to the DSII module and hook up the coil negative. The wiring is easy to figure out with something like this:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf

All in all the job was as easy as everyone says it is....I removed all the old vacuum hoses, plugged the EGR by bolting on an older one (original pintle style seemed to be leaking), and removed the computer harness but cut it off at the firewall to keep from having to plug the empty hole. If you do this, disconnect battery ground first since you need to pull the EEC power wire off the starter solenoid. Even got the old vacuum operated A/C idle kick-up solenoid working buy reusing one of the old vacuum solenoid switches on the valve cover and wiring it to the low pressure switch.....couldn't tell by the drawings if it was computer controlled or not before as the drawings only showed four vac solenoid switches and all of them were connected to the computer.