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Old May 10, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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brightideaselectric's Avatar
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floor jack

What are you do it yourself guys using for floor Jacks to lift these beasts. I have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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If the jack bleeds down that fast, your release valve is not sealing properly. I would replace the jack for sure for it would be dangerous with any vehicle.

I use a 3 ton all steel jack from sears with a large saddle from an older jack that was bad. I have thought about an aluminum jack but can't justify the cost at this time. Nor would i would the aluminum jack in the yard/grass/dirt like i to the steel jack.
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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A two post assymetrical lift that I installed in my workshop. I prefer walking under the vehicle vrs. crawling under it. Age has its advantages, lol.
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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4T bottle Jack from Lowes. Slow but effective and will lift the front end. Block with 2x10s under jack for stable base & more height
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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I agree with the other forum user about the bleed valve not working properly. See if you can adjust it or replace the component.

As for the recommendation, I use a 4 ton Harbor Freight model for my 250. My 3 ton didn't have the height and range to lift the truck. When I stuck 2 2x10s under the jack, I could barely get the truck up. The 4ton model got the truck with no problem. I hope this helps and good luck with your quest.
 
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Old May 10, 2015 | 10:06 PM
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I have a 6T bottle jack from china freight that replaced the standard bottle jack behind the rear seat, and I use 3T floor jack in my garage.
 
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Old May 14, 2015 | 10:26 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by FordmanNJ
I agree with the other forum user about the bleed valve not working properly. See if you can adjust it or replace the component.

As for the recommendation, I use a 4 ton Harbor Freight model for my 250. My 3 ton didn't have the height and range to lift the truck. When I stuck 2 2x10s under the jack, I could barely get the truck up. The 4ton model got the truck with no problem. I hope this helps and good luck with your quest.
Did you use the 3 ton Harbor Freight jack? I am also in the market for a new jack and was deciding between the 3 and 4 ton Harbor Freight ones.
 
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Old May 14, 2015 | 10:48 AM
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Jack Stands

Once the truck is UP please use jack stands. I use a 4 ton floor jack and then 3 ton jack stands. I have lost a friend to lack of a jack stand.

If I don't do that I leave the tires on and crawl.
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lwk362393
Did you use the 3 ton Harbor Freight jack? I am also in the market for a new jack and was deciding between the 3 and 4 ton Harbor Freight ones.

No I did not use a HFT 3 ton model. It was a GM performance labeled/ branded jack that my parents got me for Christmas one year as a joke since the whole family is a Ford family. It worked pretty well for everything else I had besides the 250. I could get my wife old car up in the air for service. The Explorer and F150 no problem. However, I did notice the F250 was a struggle for the truck and the range maxed out for whatever reason.

The HFT 4 ton model was a planned purchase. I received a couple of HFT gift cards for Christmas. My dad and I took a ride to a local store. The jack was on sale at the time. After doing some research, the jack looked like a perfect fit for performance and price. When I finally got the jack, it was used on the Explorer first and got the vehicle very nicely. Then came the F250, it was a no problem moment. Once up, I got a set of 6 ton stands underneath and went to work changing the oil and rotating tires. 20 years ago, I would have been able to shimmy under the truck without stands but getting a bit older and heavier, not so much anymore.


Originally Posted by donovan
Once the truck is UP please use jack stands. I use a 4 ton floor jack and then 3 ton jack stands. I have lost a friend to lack of a jack stand.

If I don't do that I leave the tires on and crawl.

Great advice. Unfortunately a tragedy was required to dispense this advice. I have always used stands on all work. I learned not to be too stationary while working on tires. If there was something to go wrong, you can move easier while squatting than sitting cross legged. Dad taught me that at a really young age while helping him on the family vehicles. For these trucks, I just error on the side of safety. Usually a set of 6 ton stands are about 10 bucks more for a taller, wider, and heavier stand. I thought the 3 tons were marginal at best even on my 150. So I bought a set of 6 ton stands for the 150 a few years ago and a second set when I got the 250. I will use 3 ton stands on light vehicles no problem.

One last note, I do not work for, employed by, or even sponsored by Harbor Freight. I just relate my experiences to the masses. You can spend your money however you want. However, in recent times, my purchases came from HFT. Since my dad bought stuff from them in the 70s and still are functionally working, I felt it worthwhile to give a shot as well. So far everything seems well built and functional saving me some coin on the way.
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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If you have an air compressor then I would go with a 10T unit that runs off the AC. I have one I have been using for years, works great...
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 03:23 PM
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If you have a northern tool or harbor freight by you and you don't get happy with the jack options you can do what I do.

Various 2x4, 2,8, 4x4 blocks, a pallet jack, and of course jack stands. Pallet jacks are awesome....
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 05:41 AM
  #12  
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I think I am going to give the Harbor Freight jack a try. Thanks for the replies. Doesn't take long to recoup your money. I took the truck to the dealer yesterday for the latest programming update and figured I would have them rotate tires, change oil, change fuel filters and coolant. I supplied all of the material since I usually do this myself and the stuff was sitting in the barn. They were reasonable on most of the charges but tried to charge $76 to change fuel filters. Little pricey for a 15 minute job, if that!
 
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Old May 16, 2015 | 07:21 AM
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I have one of those Craftsman floor jacks that have the one pump feature that gets it up to the frame/axle quickly. Then it only takes a few pumps to get the tire off the ground.

Luckily I can use a poor mans creeper (cardboard) on this truck to get to most everything that doesnt require removing the tires.
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 07:52 AM
  #14  
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I use a 25 year old floor jack I bought when I was still working at a new car dealer for the front. Most of the time when lifting the back I use an air over hydraulic 20ton bottle jack.

If the wheels don't have to come off the ground and I only need height, I have ramps I made out of 2x10's, 3 boards high.
Lets me do oil changes using a creeper, or allows creeper use under the running boards.

If the wheels are off the ground, then heavy duty jack stands go under - and they are 25+ years old as well.
Never trust a jack alone.
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 08:43 AM
  #15  
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Lots of great advice here.....

One thing to add that a lot of guys don't know::
Many of our trucks are so heavy that we can bend the differential axle tubes and/or crack the cast iron housing by putting the jack in the center of the differential and lifting the whole end of the truck.
Put the jack under the spring mounts or as close as possible.
Lift the vehicle up and place jack stands under the frame one side at a time.
If more height is needed, alternate sides and raise the jack stand to the next increment.
---
One more reminder -- always block the tires when jacking the vehicle.
---
Another little extra thing I do is to bring a small bottle jack and lever with me under the vehicle - just in case...
 
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