Front Parking light Assembly
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Junior User
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C5TZ-13207-H .. Left (drivers side) Park Lamp Body / Obsolete
Applications: 1965/66 F100/750.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.
KLIMESH MOTOR SALES in Calmar IA has 1 = 563-652-3241.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 1 = 606-787-5293.
PEROGIE ENTERPRISES in Highstown NJ has 1 = 609-448-5593.
OBSOLETE RELIABLE PARTS in Nashville GA has 1 = 229-686-5101.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 1 = 607-722-5371.
Applications: 1965/66 F100/750.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.
KLIMESH MOTOR SALES in Calmar IA has 1 = 563-652-3241.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 1 = 606-787-5293.
PEROGIE ENTERPRISES in Highstown NJ has 1 = 609-448-5593.
OBSOLETE RELIABLE PARTS in Nashville GA has 1 = 229-686-5101.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 1 = 607-722-5371.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,071
Likes: 1,628
From: Seattle
I've got some NOS pieces and some good used pieces. The NOS ones I have are a bit different numbers because they include the entire parking lamp assembly, but I'm not sure what Ford changed about them after serial number 788,001. Visually they look very similar to me.
The 13200 and 13201 are base numbers for the complete assembly that includes gaskets, lens and bulb, as well as the body assembly.
C5TZ-13200-J - Right Hand
C5TZ-13201-J - Left Hand
1965/66 F100/F250 before serial number 788,001
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These second ones are the ones I buy because my truck is after 788,001.
C6TZ-13200-C - Right Hand
C6TZ-13201-C - Left Hand
1966 F100/F250 (except F250 4WD) from serial number 788,001
That gives you a couple more part numbers to look for at least.
.
The 13200 and 13201 are base numbers for the complete assembly that includes gaskets, lens and bulb, as well as the body assembly.
C5TZ-13200-J - Right Hand
C5TZ-13201-J - Left Hand
1965/66 F100/F250 before serial number 788,001
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These second ones are the ones I buy because my truck is after 788,001.
C6TZ-13200-C - Right Hand
C6TZ-13201-C - Left Hand
1966 F100/F250 (except F250 4WD) from serial number 788,001
That gives you a couple more part numbers to look for at least.
.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 5,967
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From: Philly Suburbs, PA
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 233
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From: Lynnwood, WA
'Ive never found a light socket I couldn't replace - swaged or not. Can be a pain finding a good replacement, but always have. Finding good, used, is always a crap shoot. Good luck on NOS, but you should confirm it is that and nothing further back.
I would use a volt meter or test probe - they're very inexpensive if you don't have one of either yet - and start at the socket. You should be able to probe the terminals with the bulb out and see if with running light and turn signals on you have voltage (one steady, one fluctuating) there. If nothing there go back to the connector near the horn relay and check there. There is a harness connector there for that harness junction, which I might add I reversed on mine with the alternator wiring harness. Spent an hour before realizing I'd plugged in the connectors wrong.
I deserved this.
As you go backward you can trace the wire all the way to the firewall until you find out where the voltage starts. The failure will be after that. It is very unlikely you'll have both running and turn signal failure at one socket if it is a connector too far back. There are only two culpable - one at the socket and one at the horn relay area. From there the running lights are joined and only the turn signal wires are individual to the TS switch.
I would use a volt meter or test probe - they're very inexpensive if you don't have one of either yet - and start at the socket. You should be able to probe the terminals with the bulb out and see if with running light and turn signals on you have voltage (one steady, one fluctuating) there. If nothing there go back to the connector near the horn relay and check there. There is a harness connector there for that harness junction, which I might add I reversed on mine with the alternator wiring harness. Spent an hour before realizing I'd plugged in the connectors wrong.
I deserved this.
As you go backward you can trace the wire all the way to the firewall until you find out where the voltage starts. The failure will be after that. It is very unlikely you'll have both running and turn signal failure at one socket if it is a connector too far back. There are only two culpable - one at the socket and one at the horn relay area. From there the running lights are joined and only the turn signal wires are individual to the TS switch.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 233
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 82
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I've got some NOS pieces and some good used pieces. The NOS ones I have are a bit different numbers because they include the entire parking lamp assembly, but I'm not sure what Ford changed about them after serial number 788,001. Visually they look very similar to me.
The 13200 and 13201 are base numbers for the complete assembly that includes gaskets, lens and bulb, as well as the body assembly.
C5TZ-13200-J - Right Hand
C5TZ-13201-J - Left Hand
1965/66 F100/F250 before serial number 788,001
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These second ones are the ones I buy because my truck is after 788,001.
C6TZ-13200-C - Right Hand
C6TZ-13201-C - Left Hand
1966 F100/F250 (except F250 4WD) from serial number 788,001
That gives you a couple more part numbers to look for at least.
.
The 13200 and 13201 are base numbers for the complete assembly that includes gaskets, lens and bulb, as well as the body assembly.
C5TZ-13200-J - Right Hand
C5TZ-13201-J - Left Hand
1965/66 F100/F250 before serial number 788,001
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These second ones are the ones I buy because my truck is after 788,001.
C6TZ-13200-C - Right Hand
C6TZ-13201-C - Left Hand
1966 F100/F250 (except F250 4WD) from serial number 788,001
That gives you a couple more part numbers to look for at least.
.
Wow..Thanks
Is that a 4WD in your Avatar picture..
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,071
Likes: 1,628
From: Seattle
Yes, I have two 1966 F250 4WD trucks (and one 1966 F250 2WD). My album is at this link.
TA455HO's Albums - Ford-Trucks
Pictures are of when I bought each truck mostly. You'll see a picture of the previous owners next to each truck. I like to capture those. In my signature I also have links to threads on them.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 82
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Yes, I have two 1966 F250 4WD trucks (and one 1966 F250 2WD). My album is at this link.
TA455HO's Albums - Ford-Trucks
Pictures are of when I bought each truck mostly. You'll see a picture of the previous owners next to each truck. I like to capture those. In my signature I also have links to threads on them.
.
TA455HO's Albums - Ford-Trucks
Pictures are of when I bought each truck mostly. You'll see a picture of the previous owners next to each truck. I like to capture those. In my signature I also have links to threads on them.
.
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Junior User
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That looks like a nice socket to have a couple of. They don't show the socket dimension though. The only reviewer said he had to epoxy it into the housing, which would have required (I assume) some grounding to get added. The housing is to be grounded and epoxy would have been a poor ground. I would have tried to solder the socket to the housing, then try to epoxy it. I would also apply some sillycone to the plastic shield to make it water tight.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,071
Likes: 1,628
From: Seattle
I might have a spare NOS one. I'll have to see what side it was for LH/RH. My used ones may be no better than yours. They are pretty simple, though. What I would do is use a multi-meter on the continuity setting and probe from the connection plug (with it unplugged) to the solder blobs in the bulb holder end and see if a wire is broken or if they seem good. Sometimes the solder blobs, which the light bulb contact points do touch, can be worn down to nubs from miles of driving. Rough roads will cause it to happen even quicker. I've had luck just re-soldering the blobs to build them back up so they make good contact with the bulb again and that fixed a few I've worked on. Something to try and might salvage your housing and be back in business.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 82
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I might have a spare NOS one. I'll have to see what side it was for LH/RH. My used ones may be no better than yours. They are pretty simple, though. What I would do is use a multi-meter on the continuity setting and probe from the connection plug (with it unplugged) to the solder blobs in the bulb holder end and see if a wire is broken or if they seem good. Sometimes the solder blobs, which the light bulb contact points do touch, can be worn down to nubs from miles of driving. Rough roads will cause it to happen even quicker. I've had luck just re-soldering the blobs to build them back up so they make good contact with the bulb again and that fixed a few I've worked on. Something to try and might salvage your housing and be back in business.
.
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Ok..yea I have a parking light but no turn signal...it's got to be something simple...
You wouldn't happen to know which side of the socket is the signal side..I know there is a high and low slot in the socket..
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,071
Likes: 1,628
From: Seattle
I'm not sure without tracing wires.
If you have parking light but no turn signal I wouldn't think the housing as my first suspect, although possible. I think all it does is flash the parking light for the turn signal, so it seems like it would be something else in the system. I'm sort of thinking turn signal switch, but that might not be it.
You have good turn signal in the back on the drivers side, just not the drivers front, correct? Both rears work and passenger front works?
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2013
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I'm not sure without tracing wires.
If you have parking light but no turn signal I wouldn't think the housing as my first suspect, although possible. I think all it does is flash the parking light for the turn signal, so it seems like it would be something else in the system. I'm sort of thinking turn signal switch, but that might not be it.
You have good turn signal in the back on the drivers side, just not the drivers front, correct? Both rears work and passenger front works?
.
If you have parking light but no turn signal I wouldn't think the housing as my first suspect, although possible. I think all it does is flash the parking light for the turn signal, so it seems like it would be something else in the system. I'm sort of thinking turn signal switch, but that might not be it.
You have good turn signal in the back on the drivers side, just not the drivers front, correct? Both rears work and passenger front works?
.
Yep.... got signal everyplace but the Driver side front..
I put some of the electric grease in the socket..was told that might help..but nothing
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,071
Likes: 1,628
From: Seattle
Steve ran into a similar issue with his right rear. Seems similar enough to at least mention as good reading. His sounds like it turned out to be two wires from the turn signal switch were crossed and no wonder if the color codes of those two were switched. Might not help, but maybe....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dicator-2.html
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dicator-2.html
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
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Steve ran into a similar issue with his right rear. Seems similar enough to at least mention as good reading. His sounds like it turned out to be two wires from the turn signal switch were crossed and no wonder if the color codes of those two were switched. Might not help, but maybe....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dicator-2.html
.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dicator-2.html
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