First time Turbo installer here. Bought an aftermarket turbo, and installed per the instructions received with the turbo.
1. pre-oiled the bearing by flipping the turbo over and pouring oil in the inlet and outlet ports, spun the turbo;
2. reinstalled with new o-rings on the saddle, and
3. idled for five minutes prior to driving; oil pressure normal.

the turbo seized within a mile of the house. Did I miss something, or should I suspect this is an out of the box failure? BuyAutoParts (purchased through Amazon) is sending me a new one under warranty...but I don't relish the thought of doing this again only to screw it up!

Turbo in questions is a Stigan 847-1013 FWIW. Also, I was replacing the old one because after driving 4k miles with an improperly installed air filter the wheel had worn the tips off the impellers. In retrospect, probably should have just changed out the wheel!

Thanks.

2001 Excursion
7.3 Powerstroke--all stock

Nathan

 

USFNathan I presume?

Sounds like a bunk turbo. There's not a lot in the aftermarket world that a lot of us would trust when it comes to precision machined instruments - especially no-name stuff from Amazon

There weren't any dust caps or anything in the oil passages, correct? I've seen caps on carb's get stuffed up inside then ports before and they get overlooked.

 

Dang Matt, How you remembered that I don't know. I thought I had registered for this forum before but I couldn't find my info to save my life this am.

Point taken on the origin of the turbo.

No, there was no dust caps etc. that could have fallen into the apetures, and it was apparent that oil could make it's way through the races as you could pour it in one end and out the other.

Going to ask for $$ back instead and buy a wheel for my stocker.

Any suggestions? Straight up Whicked wheel?

 

[PHP]http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-billet-compressor-wheel-94-03//PHP]
try this one from riffraff...pretty good price and a lot on here recommend it. I have one myself...just haven't gotten around to installing it yet

 

I looked up the turbo you listed to check it out, saw a review that was awfully similar to your post here and figured it was you, lol.

As El_C already suggested, you'll have a hard time beating what Clay has to offer over at RiffRaffDiesel. I ran his 6/6 billet wheel for a year and loved it, unfortunately it died when my turbo killed itself. Up until then, I loved it. Killed the surge I would get towing through hills and squeezed a couple more pounds of boost as well. The whistle was cool, it did get a little old on cross country drives IMO - but his new 4/4 version is quieter with the same performance gains. Being lighter, it's easier to spin so the turbo should light a bit faster as well. $195
Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

There's also the standard Borg Warner anti-surge wheel if you're on a budget, for $66
Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Whichever way you go, it would behoove you to grab the reinstall kit (Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38 - Riffraff Diesel Performance) and compressor housing O-ring (GTP38 Compressor Housing O-ring - Riffraff Diesel Performance) as well.

While you're in there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to throw a delete pedestal in there too. They're known to leak, and it's more of a "not if but when" deal with them. That's how I lost my turbo and billet wheel - pedestal rolled the o-ring on the actuating arm for the EBPV and would leak oil only after the valve cycled. Turbo ended up starving for oil and fried the journal bearings, which in turn led to a 1/4" of shaft play and the wheel eating into the compressor housing. Not an absolute necessity if yours is working fine now, however since you're going to be right there anyway... Just makes sense to replace it.
Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

Totally agree with Matt on all this. I suggest this however for turbo re-install if you have the cash. Anything you don't use can be put in the glove box for later.

 

I agree with this as well, much more financial sense in the end.
We'll be having a small tech day at Razzi's soon to work on Apoc's rig whenever he gets here. You should join us and we can throw that wheel in there in a matter of two hours (after cool down time, sonuvabitch gets HOT).

 

Sounds good....I got me a few more pieces to get....guess I'll order now so they get here sooner than later....lemme know when so I can make sure I'm off to come and work with yall

 

Haven't tried Clay's, but I love my WW2. Faster spool, more boost, really bitchen looking product (hey, it really is nice up close!)

 

I'm fairly certain it'll be this upcoming weekend, which may not work so well with your Mrs. and Mother's Day

 

Nice suggestions all--Juan that is an awesome kit--I have piecemeal replaced many of those o rings over the last several years.

Anyone have the 38r upgrade over the stock turbo? Worth it without a chip calling for more fuel?

 

Dang! Mother's day. Better write that down.

 

The MAF can compensate but only as far as the PCM coding extends beyond stock limitations. For an example, the LS ECU in Chevy's has tables to go all the way to 600hp programmed from the factory.

To maximize a 38R swap, you'll need tunes of some sort. Mark (mecdac) would be a good person to ask, he has a 38R and damn near stock tunes - some antiquated 10-yr old SCT thing.

 

38 R with a billet wheel, as to KM's 'antiquated' comment I will be changing injectors soon and will upgrade the tunes at that time. I am very happy with my current set-up not 122 MPH happy but wuteva. Since I have not been doing J-turns (like some I know) my transmission still works.

 

Curses, I wish I could make this. I thought this was last weekend. Still wouldn't have been able to come down though.