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I have a question about how and why my batteries are connected the way they are.
I had the battery covers off, and was gonna pull the batteries out to test fit a toolbox on the a-frame but alas, it won't fit between the propane tanks and the front of the trailer.
Anyway, there's the negative from the first 6 volt, then a jumper to the second 6 volt, then the positive, making 12 volts. Makes sense so far, right?
There was also a pair of 10 gauge wires with #10 studs jammed under the 3/8" lugs of the jumper cable. And it was red to the positive off the first battery and white to the negative of the second battery. I don't know what it's for, but as I see it, there's zero potential there. I'll post a pic of it for clarification.
The batteries are just two 6V gulf cart batteries wired in series to get 12V, the two other wires I'm guessing go to the brake away switch but it's not wired right. If you trace it back and that's what it is it needs 12V not 0 volts you have now.
I don't know what the 10s are for. Since the two sixes are fine in series, once you have everything hooked up, leave the 10s off and see what works or doesn't work. I see goofy stuff so often, my meter and my limited common sense are my best friends. Usually tens are for things like landing gear, tongue jacks, or slides possibly.
Right now there is no voltage are you noted. How about when there is a lead on the positive terminal that is now open?
I probably won't get back to it till next week, I was thinking possibly a prewire for a solar that isn't hooked up yet. I've left a message with the rv dealer, they haven't replied yet.
The positive I have off is just so I don't kill the battery.
Two is better than one. Parallel for the 12 volts.
?
Just to clarify, if you run these batteries parallel, you would only get 6 volts. You need to wire ( as shown) in "series", to get 12 volts.
Anything you need to wire at 12 volts, including your breakaway switch, needs to come off the final positive terminal on far right.
Your jumper (red) wire isn't grounded and should not show anything, except continuity as noted, when putting VOM terminals at each end.
I think the r-w wire are the 12 volt wires for the trailer. these are hooked up wrong as they have no value thus the o v. Put white on positive black for ground? Would try to get a continuity 1st however, to see which is ground which isn't. Forget colors on my ground hot so do the continuity test 1st.
It's a brand new trailer with 2 6 volt batteries in series that I spec'd myself.
I plan on installing a solar system about 150-200 watts, a charge controller, and an inverter. I wanted to pull the batteries and covers to test fit an aluminum toolbox on the a-frame, but the toolbox was too wide to fit between the propane tanks and the front of the trailer. The current battery boxes were screwed down but I didn't bring the tools to remove them. (On my last trailer the boxes were loose, but held down with the battery cover strap.)
So while I had the covers off, I see this weird wiring setup. It would be nice if the dealer would get back to me.
I would again suggest hooking up the batteries and/or tracing the wires. Making assumptions about anything having to do with wires on RVs can easily lead to mistakes. I see things all the time that, at first glance make no sense. So far you do not even know if anything is in error. All you know is it doesn't look right. Diagnosis is empirically established, often using a multimeter.
RVs prepped for solar nomrally do not have leads connected at the batteries and break-aways are not wired with 10 ga.
Just to clarify, if you run these batteries parallel, you would only get 6 volts. You need to wire ( as shown) in "series", to get 12 volts.
Anything you need to wire at 12 volts, including your breakaway switch, needs to come off the final positive terminal on far right.
Your jumper (red) wire isn't grounded and should not show anything, except continuity as noted, when putting VOM terminals at each end.
I had a brain cramp. Relooking..I goofed on that one.
Looking closer you need a + and a - hookup for the 12 v all you have now are 6v off the one battery. connect one of the 10ga wire to the other post for 12v. As noted before 1 wire to + on one batt 1 wire to neg of other batt. Just need to ensure which is which. Dont know where the 1 white wire is going that is connected to the left batt + post. No voltage between the 2 batteries is right as they are not connected to be able to show voltage. No voltage till the circuit is complete and that will be as I said in the beginning of this post.
Looking closer you need a + and a - hookup for the 12 v all you have now are 6v off the one battery. connect one of the 10ga wire to the other post for 12v. As noted before 1 wire to + on one batt 1 wire to neg of other batt. Just need to ensure which is which. Dont know where the 1 white wire is going that is connected to the left batt + post. No voltage between the 2 batteries is right as they are not connected to be able to show voltage. No voltage till the circuit is complete and that will be as I said in the beginning of this post.
Also was the intent of the question at the end of my first post. Lots of conjecture with the possibility nothing is the matter.
Since the leads are 10 ga, if I was troubleshooting this circuit, I would start with things that are connected with 10 ga. leads. If it was a fiver, my first guess would always be the landing gear motor as those leads always have s separate fuse. Since you would have a reversing switch in that circuit, polarity is irrelevant, ditto the slides, but slides are seldom fed directly from the battery terminals.
That extra wiring may be your dealers way of compensating for really crappy crimps on the cables. It looks like he made up the cables with a hand crimper - which just wont do the job on a piece if 1-2 or thereabouts, awg cable. For a battery interconnect ground wire, you could even use a bare stranded piece though not recommended. Can I suggest that you replace the poorly made up cables with ones commercially assembled and just trash the useless 10awg wiring.
This is what a small shop user needs to make up battery cables and what I used when I built my street rod a few years back:
That extra wiring may be your dealers way of compensating for really crappy crimps on the cables. It looks like he made up the cables with a hand crimper - which just wont do the job on a piece if 1-2 or thereabouts, awg cable. For a battery interconnect ground wire, you could even use a bare stranded piece though not recommended. Can I suggest that you replace the poorly made up cables with ones commercially assembled and just trash the useless 10awg wiring.
This is what a small shop user needs to make up battery cables and what I used when I built my street rod a few years back:
I also solder any that I can just to be sure.
I would again encourage no changes until you know what and why you are making the changes. Hand crimped eyelets #10s will outlast the RV in most cases. Perhaps less cosmetically appealing, but totally functional in my opinion.