ok so i have a 94 f150 5.0 rwd auto xl. i have replaced most of everything within my wallets reach. has a new tps, iac, vac lines, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, ignition switch and im sure im forgetting something. still no fix. while im driving but not at wot the truck is bucking like a massive misfire. im not sure if its egr or distributor or a fuel issue. i dont have the tools to do any proper tests and noone on the island has an obd1 reader. the bucking is getting worse and i need this truck for work. no issue at idle on takeoff or at wot just when it kicks down to crusing speed. and i can hear it from engine not tranny. also just serviced the tranny and cleaned everything like fuel sys and tb. help please i dont want to just keep throwing money at it

 

Step 1, stop throwing money at the truck and hoping it gets fixed.
Step 2, go on youtube and search how to pull codes from the Ford OBD1 system for free, or buy a reader for $20 USD.
Step 3, come back with the codes so we can help you.

 

i wish i could just jump it to get the codes...forgot to mention that the genius who had it before me destroyed the wires to the dash so no dash lights

 

I agree, quit throwing cash at it and see what codes you have, I believe there is a digital reader by Equus that is special for our obd1 ford vehicles. Around $25 last I checked.

Are you able to check your fuel psi?

 

There is a work around for that...Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

cut from half way down the page:

If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don�t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.
1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you�ll want to use the continuity setting.
b) If you are using an analog voltmeter you�ll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you�ll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

 

You're going to have to buy a reader then. No way around it. I use this one...

 

ok so i broke down and got a reader 35$ for the only one on the island. but the codes are
157
327
332
542
so mostly egr...was sorta afraid of that. thing is nearly impossible to get off of there. but if its saying it is closed would that be vacuum issues or just dirty?

 

Looks like are stored codes (Continuous Memory)? The code definitions frequently change depending on when they were displayed.

Code 157: MAF sensor went below 0.4 volts during the last 80 warm-up cycles.

Code 327: EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.

Code 332: EGR valve opening not detected.

Code 542: Fuel pump circuit failure

Code 542 leads one to believe the fuel pump is not activating. Was this a Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or CM code? If it's KOEO, is the fuel pump energized by the Fuel Pump relay or a switch? If CM, perhaps there is an intermittent open that is dropping out the fuel pump.

EGR Code 327 can be caused by a collapsed EGR diaphragm or the EVP sensor is bad...or an open wire.

Code 332...EGR valve not opening. Leads us back to the question about Code 327 and wiring.

Code 157....

Cut from my manual

Possible causes:

-- Poor continuity in MAF sensor harness or connectors.

-- Intermittent open or short in MAF sensor or harness.

-- Damaged MAF sensor.

-- Idle Air Control (IAC) system failure (at closed throttle position).

 

ok thanks for the help, got the egr off with a large hammer and about a can of pb spray...it was stuck closed so i cleaned it for about an hour and engine runs smooth now. but...always a but with this truck, after checking everything else i now need to replace the harmonic balancer...hoping it dosent damage anything else cuz this is a daily driver and i dont have a place to work on it for something large like that. think some c4 will fix all the issues in one swift boom