Truck running funny, HELP
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Truck running funny, HELP
There was a guy on here the other day having almost identical issues to what I am having but i couldnt find the post. Basically what is happening is when you get up to 60+ the truck kinda jumps up 2-300rpms, then you give it a little more throttle and it flattens back out to normal, let off and it jumps right back up.
Like the other guy I did just put all new LED lights in my truck, cab, tail, reverse, and fender lights which was causing his problems. However, I did use the built in resister can bus led's off of superbrightleds.com for my tails. My reverse and cab lights are just regular led. Should I also change those to the can bus style as well with the built in resistors?
Like the other guy I did just put all new LED lights in my truck, cab, tail, reverse, and fender lights which was causing his problems. However, I did use the built in resister can bus led's off of superbrightleds.com for my tails. My reverse and cab lights are just regular led. Should I also change those to the can bus style as well with the built in resistors?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
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From: Southern West Virginia
Oh, gotcha. I remembered you having one injector replaced. Thought it was the same issue. Have you checked you TPS?
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Idk what TPS is haha? Im not much of a mechanic
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Here is a portion of a Ford Tech Bulletin describing torque converter unlock at < 30% throttle issue when using LED brake lights. Make sure all three brake lights have the resistor ...
Recently there has been an increase in the popularity of replacing the stock incandescent brake lamp bulbs, with aftermarket LED lamp assemblies. Refer to Figures 67 and 68. The main advantages of switching to LED lamp assemblies is that there are no fragile filaments to burn out or break, which means that the LED lamp assemblies may possibly last for the entire life of the vehicle, and LED lamps consume much less energy than the stock incandescent bulbs. Due to the low power consumption, the PCM may view this reduced current draw as being a burned out bulb, resulting in a no Torque Converter Clutch apply at less than 30 percent throttle.
Recently there has been an increase in the popularity of replacing the stock incandescent brake lamp bulbs, with aftermarket LED lamp assemblies. Refer to Figures 67 and 68. The main advantages of switching to LED lamp assemblies is that there are no fragile filaments to burn out or break, which means that the LED lamp assemblies may possibly last for the entire life of the vehicle, and LED lamps consume much less energy than the stock incandescent bulbs. Due to the low power consumption, the PCM may view this reduced current draw as being a burned out bulb, resulting in a no Torque Converter Clutch apply at less than 30 percent throttle.
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Elder User
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Ok so i replaced the cab light, tails, and reverse with can bus bulbs, still didnt fix the problem. Now my buddy is putting a resistor on the tails, if this does not fix then i will try stock bulbs again. But my question is, if i cannot figure out the problem is it hurting anything to drive it? I have an 8 hour trip to make in the morning and am running out of time to figure it out
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We finally got it figured out, ended up having to put resistors in the blinker wires even tho i got can bus bulbs with built in resistors, also found a loose plug in the cab lights that may have been part of it as well. But its running good and normal now
