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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 09:29 AM
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What size manifold studs?

Just swapping out the exhaust for EFI and still deciding on an intake manifold, and it was recommended to me I replace the bolts with some studs instead. What size and thread type do I need for this. This is on an '85 F-150 300 ci Inline six. Also where would one normally purchase these?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RedOct85I6
Just swapping out the exhaust for EFI and still deciding on an intake manifold, and it was recommended to me I replace the bolts with some studs instead. What size and thread type do I need for this. This is on an '85 F-150 300 ci Inline six. Also where would one normally purchase these?
Hillco dot com, 2" overall, 3/8 16 going into the head, 3/8 24 thread for the manifold. Use the thick oem washers, or get new ones from hillco, and crimp nuts, all grade 8. Use Mr. Gasket #260. Apply copper anti seize compound into the head.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 06:22 PM
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Thank you sir. That's exactly what I needed to know. I placed the order with HilcoFasteners today for the studs and the nuts. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Apr 29, 2015 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RedOct85I6
Thank you sir. That's exactly what I needed to know. I placed the order with HilcoFasteners today for the studs and the nuts. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated!
That will cost you $5.00. Ha ha. Just messing with you. Good luck. Glad to help.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 03:22 AM
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like AV09686 for the stud and 838024GC for the nuts ?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 10:40 AM
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Used hilco as well. Did the same stuff except I purchased the flange nuts as well. Ended up using the self locking nuts with the lock washers and the factory washers. The thick washers from hilco are not all that wide and barely catch on the flanges for the manifolds.
Followed another forum member's advise on torquing per sequence and not doing all 30 pounds at once.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 09:51 PM
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I was able to buy my studs right off Amazon.

Here's the link Here's the link

The measurements on the studs are:

3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 2


The coarse end goes in the block.

As for the nuts,

18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Flange Nut

I reused the OEM washers. You can buy them, but I don't know the spec - someone posted it in a forum here somewhere
 
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 05:35 AM
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I'm a big fan of only running studs in the minimum number of places required to hand the manifolds in place and then running bolts everywhere else. That way if you ever need to open it up again you only have to get rusted nuts off a handful of studs.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by arse_sidewards
I'm a big fan of only running studs in the minimum number of places required to hand the manifolds in place and then running bolts everywhere else. That way if you ever need to open it up again you only have to get rusted nuts off a handful of studs.
Are bolts easier to remove than studs? I was reading that studs have are more accurate to torque... but what do I know? I 've only done this once.

Here's what mine looked like before I threw on the combination manifold yesterday:



Here's what it looked like after

 
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 10:03 AM
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Bolts and studs both come out just fine but the nuts on the studs frequently bring the stud with them. Using bolts saves the time spent getting the nuts off the studs and reinstalling the studs if you ever have to service it again.

Is fine thread easier to torque more accurately and reliably? Sure. Is it enough to matter in this application? I don't think so.

You can do any service you want on the head (short of porting) without removing the manifolds. If you install the manifolds right you should never have to touch them again.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by arse_sidewards
Bolts and studs both come out just fine but the nuts on the studs frequently bring the stud with them. Using bolts saves the time spent getting the nuts off the studs and reinstalling the studs if you ever have to service it again.

Is fine thread easier to torque more accurately and reliably? Sure. Is it enough to matter in this application? I don't think so.

You can do any service you want on the head (short of porting) without removing the manifolds. If you install the manifolds right you should never have to touch them again.

I'm not sure if this would help, but you can double nut the studs to preload them. I saw a video that suggested you preload them to 24 ft /lbs. I didn't do that because I was afraid of doing damage. I also don't think that applies to studs where it's butting up against the end of the thread.

IDK, I'll be honest, I used studs because I thought it would be easier to hang the manifold. I don't actually think that ended up being true.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 12:46 PM
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"Anti-Seize" is your friend.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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The link you posted to Amazon, it does NOT say those studs are grade 8. That could lead to trouble.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
The link you posted to Amazon, it does NOT say those studs are grade 8. That could lead to trouble.
Oh god you might be right. It said in the QA section grade 8, but now I'm seeing other say it's grade 5.

So... I'm assuming that's a risk of snapping off a bolt in the block?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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I think if you take care not to over tighten them they will be fine. That has been my experience. Regardless of what strength you use check them occasionally for tightness.
 
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