9" 3RD MEMBER ?
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
9" 3RD MEMBER ?
I just finished disassembling the 3rd member on my 9" rebuild. I failed to index the pinion and pinion cartrage flange position B4 pulling it apart. My question is there any danger of vibration do to a un balance condition if I re use the original ring and pinion gears with the new Trc-Loc. The gears seem to be in good condition, the trunnion (or pinion shaft where it rides in the pocket bearing), is not polished but has no pits and or wear groves in it. I can replace the gear set if needed but wont unless there is a good reason to. Here are a couple pics of the gear set. The reason I ask is one reference book said that in rare cases the axle and third member were balanced as a unit. FYI this third member was not the original to the axle housing. As always I really appreciate any and all input. Thank you
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Burbank, WA
I've never heard of the gears, or any other parts of the third member being balanced. I don't believe you'll have any issues like that putting everything back together. It's my understanding, though, that most guys will shy away from reusing gear sets because it's extremely difficult to get the mesh exactly the same as before, and if they don't fit right, they can make quite a howling noise.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
What ratio do you have? The only issues I'm familiar with as far as specific alignment is with the 3.50 gearsets. Because they are an "even" number, there are teeth on the ring and on the pinion that are punch-marked. When you reassemble, you are supposed to line the marks up to re-establish the existing wear pattern. On gearsets with odd ratios, like say 3.66 or 4.10, there isn't the same concern.
Never heard of them being balanced.
Never heard of them being balanced.
Are we there yet?
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: NW Valley AZ
If you want to go just a little lower go somewhere in the 3:70 range or 4:10 if you want more.
This will depend on your tire diameter too. A very tall tire will effect the overall ratio.
If you do a lot of highway driving you may want to stay with the 3:50's.
This will depend on your tire diameter too. A very tall tire will effect the overall ratio.
If you do a lot of highway driving you may want to stay with the 3:50's.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
I pretty sure the tires are 395/15s, and I do very little freeway driving. The rear I have in it now is 2.89 which is in a Dana 53, It seems to be pretty good with the C4 and 2000 rpm Hole shot T/C. It will cruise at 65 but does use the gas. EDIT the tires are 295/50 15s
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
9" 3rd member.
Once the 9" R&P is removed from the housing, the crush sleeve (4662) has to be replaced, as you cannot use the original over again.
You will also have to replace the pinion seal (4676) and the pinion bearing retainer o-ring (4669).
Plus the R&P has to be set up, why you need to replace the crush sleeve. You cannot install all the parts without having this done, because if you do, problems will arise PDQ!
You will also have to replace the pinion seal (4676) and the pinion bearing retainer o-ring (4669).
Plus the R&P has to be set up, why you need to replace the crush sleeve. You cannot install all the parts without having this done, because if you do, problems will arise PDQ!
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Lead Driver
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Here's a tool to dial your power band in for your particular situation.
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Now all you need is to decide what RPM range you want to be in.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Personally I would be looking at more like 3.25 with an A/T that doesn't lock up. But you just can't go wrong with 3.50.
Look on the end of the pinion gear for a hash mark or dot marker. Same on the outer edge of the ring. If the R&P are in good shape wear-wise, I wouldn't fret a lot about matching them, but if you can it's a good idea. Can you post a pic of the end of the pinion?
Look on the end of the pinion gear for a hash mark or dot marker. Same on the outer edge of the ring. If the R&P are in good shape wear-wise, I wouldn't fret a lot about matching them, but if you can it's a good idea. Can you post a pic of the end of the pinion?
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Good morning all, I just woke up and had my 1st sip of coffee. A lot of great input thank you guys. Ok. Bill I have all new internals except the r&p gears, and I went with the upgrade to the solid shimmed spacer to replace the crush sleeve. Ross Yes I did find the markings on both gears.. I will post a pic of the end of the pinion in an hour or so.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,670
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
Jimmy,
As long as you set the pinion depth and backlash correct you should have no problems. I have done lots of rearends when I worked at the speed shop so if you have any issues and don't mind a little drive I can help you set it up here in Truckee in my shop.
As long as you set the pinion depth and backlash correct you should have no problems. I have done lots of rearends when I worked at the speed shop so if you have any issues and don't mind a little drive I can help you set it up here in Truckee in my shop.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
That is a very generous offer, but a drive like that is kinda out of the question at the moment. If I could, Id do it just to meet you, Maybe someday. Thanks, and thanks for the input also.
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