door locks
This is what I found so far sounds like it could be the Issue , other wise good read for every one that has these trucks.
first use a small flat pry bar to remove this Shoulder door trim ( note the Screw at the bottom releases the lower door panel)
the two screws you will have to pull out before removing the lower door panel ,the two small screw drivers are at the location of screws, the arm rest control pop the front first and slide it towards the door hinges , no need to disconnect the harness, also lift up on the panel to remove , ( disconnect the light before removing all the way out)
A T-27 for the Door Latch and 7/16 is needed to remove the latch and window guide.
I didn't get the door cable but it will remove,the yellow clip like this one will have to be un snapped before removal you can leave this one on it goes to the lock ****
Ok guys here is the Door lock assembly repair Instructions .
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here is a picture of the yellow tab this goes to the Exterior door handle,( note the other metal rod holder low right side of yellow clip) this rod only goes through the top hole.and is the last thing to disconnect, take the wire harness off small screw driver will lift the clip and pop them out.
almost out, time to work the door cable off.
yellow clip exterior door handle,( pita)
I found it easer to remove the latch assembly off the door latch ( note the screw driver under the plastic tab) leave it there and use larger driver to slide the unit off of the metal clips) Note the electrical purple connection don't brake it it's very close and don't try to twist it out of the way, it will go .
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with the Assembly removed off the door latch ( not shown) start to work in-between the two housings ( Note the two silver screws DONT remove those just open slowly , the little plastic caps will snap off that's ok .
Now you will need a extra hand, some one will have to spread the two housings open while you grab the Stator ( alum piece ) (note direction of larger gear) this piece will flop aroundit will have to be set right before Install. ( Note smaller gear )when stator is out pry this gear off on the back of the unit are metal notches that hold the plastic on I used a 8d common concrete nail to help bent these out.
I forgot the best part as I still have to do the other door, when the stator is out you will see a small flat maybe 1/2'' x1/2'' x1/16'' plate it sits in the plastic piece of the stator take it out and add a small piece of Alumum foil at the bottom to build it up slightly you will see the contacts go just below that stuff it in then add the plate back on top spin the stator and ( note there are two small washers on the stator shaft these go behind the Brushes in the plastic piece ).
OK guys where the Nail points are the Metal tabs that hold the plastic witch hold all the Goodies in, you will have to pry the 2 tabs to ware the plastic will release.
On the right Nail point is trying to show 2 very small washers ( note , these go under the Brushes then the shaft into the small hole as shown above, the left nail is the flat Plate. also make( note) on how the electrical tabs pull out of the stator box.
Flat Plate with a small rolled up Piece of Aluminum foil lower nail shows foil Installed, don't forget to Install the Plate,
I used a vise to help hold the Unit, it really helps to bend ( with a nail) back down ( note ) be sure the white plastic is all the way in place before bending, once done rotate bend rotate and bend then spin the gear to make sure everything is good to go and snug.
I did the same repair replacing the thermals with a solid piece. They worked great for a few years until we stopped & found that the locks were now frozen & we were unable to lock or unlock the doors. We figured out that my friends dog that was sitting on her lap had his paw on the switch for an unknown amount of time (probably hours). When I pulled the motors, the coils had melted down.
The new style actuators have been working great for many years!







