door locks
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
door locks
Hello FTE f-150 Forum, I just Purchased a 2000 f- 150 5.4l 4x4 and I'll have to say my back loves it after being in my 04 diesel ( other baby) a little bit smoother ride , all is in great shape and functioning except for the Lock system , the key fob and door manual lock don't work you can use the key to unlock only and press down on the lock dillie on the door and that will lock it up . these trucks are similar ( 04 power stroke diesel) in lock style what would keep this from happing. thanks guys for your Input . Pics to come
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
How To Fix Failing and Sluggish Power Door Locks - Ford Truck Technical Articles
This is what I found so far sounds like it could be the Issue , other wise good read for every one that has these trucks.
This is what I found so far sounds like it could be the Issue , other wise good read for every one that has these trucks.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
My Grandson just Joined FTE and figured out how to post , we bought the truck for him, but I have my eye on the Tail gate OH and the comfy seats
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
first use a small flat pry bar to remove this Shoulder door trim ( note the Screw at the bottom releases the lower door panel)
the two screws you will have to pull out before removing the lower door panel ,the two small screw drivers are at the location of screws, the arm rest control pop the front first and slide it towards the door hinges , no need to disconnect the harness, also lift up on the panel to remove , ( disconnect the light before removing all the way out)
A T-27 for the Door Latch and 7/16 is needed to remove the latch and window guide.
I didn't get the door cable but it will remove,the yellow clip like this one will have to be un snapped before removal you can leave this one on it goes to the lock ****
Ok guys here is the Door lock assembly repair Instructions .
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
here is a picture of the yellow tab this goes to the Exterior door handle,( note the other metal rod holder low right side of yellow clip) this rod only goes through the top hole.and is the last thing to disconnect, take the wire harness off small screw driver will lift the clip and pop them out.
almost out, time to work the door cable off.
yellow clip exterior door handle,( pita)
I found it easer to remove the latch assembly off the door latch ( note the screw driver under the plastic tab) leave it there and use larger driver to slide the unit off of the metal clips) Note the electrical purple connection don't brake it it's very close and don't try to twist it out of the way, it will go .
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
with the Assembly removed off the door latch ( not shown) start to work in-between the two housings ( Note the two silver screws DONT remove those just open slowly , the little plastic caps will snap off that's ok .
Now you will need a extra hand, some one will have to spread the two housings open while you grab the Stator ( alum piece ) (note direction of larger gear) this piece will flop aroundit will have to be set right before Install. ( Note smaller gear )when stator is out pry this gear off on the back of the unit are metal notches that hold the plastic on I used a 8d common concrete nail to help bent these out.
I forgot the best part as I still have to do the other door, when the stator is out you will see a small flat maybe 1/2'' x1/2'' x1/16'' plate it sits in the plastic piece of the stator take it out and add a small piece of Alumum foil at the bottom to build it up slightly you will see the contacts go just below that stuff it in then add the plate back on top spin the stator and ( note there are two small washers on the stator shaft these go behind the Brushes in the plastic piece ).
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
Sorry guys I was so bizzy putting this thing back together and didn't take the Pics of the plate foil and Stator housing clips/tabs , those need to be crimped back down or pounded with a nail, to hold the stator in place ,I had to put it in a Vise to hold the unit steady,I'll get the pics when I do the other door.( note) before you Install onto the door latch and zip tie, hook it up to the truck connection to make sure the gears move and has enough play you may need to open and rotate the gears it took me one time , then disconnect electrical and add some Zip ties to hold it together
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,832
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
OK guys where the Nail points are the Metal tabs that hold the plastic witch hold all the Goodies in, you will have to pry the 2 tabs to ware the plastic will release.
On the right Nail point is trying to show 2 very small washers ( note , these go under the Brushes then the shaft into the small hole as shown above, the left nail is the flat Plate. also make( note) on how the electrical tabs pull out of the stator box.
Flat Plate with a small rolled up Piece of Aluminum foil lower nail shows foil Installed, don't forget to Install the Plate,
I used a vise to help hold the Unit, it really helps to bend ( with a nail) back down ( note ) be sure the white plastic is all the way in place before bending, once done rotate bend rotate and bend then spin the gear to make sure everything is good to go and snug.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 1
From: SF Bay Area
Something I would like to add to this... The resisters are actually working as timers, letting the motors work for only a few seconds.
I did the same repair replacing the thermals with a solid piece. They worked great for a few years until we stopped & found that the locks were now frozen & we were unable to lock or unlock the doors. We figured out that my friends dog that was sitting on her lap had his paw on the switch for an unknown amount of time (probably hours). When I pulled the motors, the coils had melted down.
The new style actuators have been working great for many years!
I did the same repair replacing the thermals with a solid piece. They worked great for a few years until we stopped & found that the locks were now frozen & we were unable to lock or unlock the doors. We figured out that my friends dog that was sitting on her lap had his paw on the switch for an unknown amount of time (probably hours). When I pulled the motors, the coils had melted down.
The new style actuators have been working great for many years!