Hi every one,

I want to add rear wheel spacers for my 2010 extended E250 5.4L
I already checked the forum and 2" spacers seems perfect.

I'm not sure this auction on ebay will fit tho, can you guys help me out?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Wheel-Spacers-Adapters-8X6-5-TO-8X6-5-14X1-5-2-THICK-CHEVY-GMC-/191290440804?hash=item2c89cc7c64&vxp=mtr
I searched the web and I'm getting some info here and there,
8x165? 8x6.5? 9/16 studs? 14x1.5 threads? stud length?

Now the compatibility check on the auction page says it will not fit, is it accurate?

Thanks!

 

Ok so I kept on looking around after posting this new thread and I answered one question. Sorry I'm new to all this.

They wont fit because they don't have the right threads (14x1.5 is incorrect) I need 9/16.

Also 8x165 is the same as 8x6.5 it's simply a metric vs inches thing.

Found a new number 124.9 (center bore) so I have to match that as well I guess?

But take a look at this auction, it seems good but the compatibility check says no?? what gives?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8X6-5-WHEEL-SPACERS-ADAPTERS-9-16-DODGE-RAM-FORD-F-250-F-350-2-INCHES-/141250875661?hash=item20e335510d&vxp=mtr

 

Dont buy aluminum spacers , if you want spacers buy steel,

the firm arrowcraft makes them

 

Does your E250 have the full floating axles ? (that are bolted in place from the outside ?) or are they the same type as the 8.8 rears ? (C clip retained with a single bearing?) If the later, you really don't want to move the wheels outboard at all as you will be increasing the leverage on the axle bearing. Not to mention it'll be even worse by adding weight to the van in your conversion.

 

The E250's are semi-floating axles, not really a candidate for spaces.

 

Why do you need spacers ?

 

If you have a sliding cargo door you can forget about spacers.

Also front fender clearance when turning is marginal at best.

 

My van is 9 feet tall with a hightop and very unstable with crosswinds on the highway, 2" on each sides will help a lot.

Also I red that adding precisely 2" spacers will align the rear with the front, I live near Montreal Canada...
No need to tell you that when we have snow storms the rear will constantly be fighting to stay in the front tracks.

No sliding door.

Only rear spacers.

Another reason I want to add rear spacers is for looks since I will also be adding bushwaker's fender flares.

I don't know what kind of rear axle I have, does this picture help?




Rear axle

 

I agree about not using aluminum.. Only use steel if you want the spacers. Also you do realize that its a violation in most parts to have the tire sticking out past the rear quarter or fender right? 2" is a lot. I used 1.5" on my 99 e350 and i had them on for over 10 years with no issues at all. The wheels still didnt stick out past the body. Keep in mind though this was a conversion box van with dual rear wheels, i put them in between to separate the tires that were rubbing and help with body roll. It did help with body roll greatly but your talking about cross winds and what i believe to be single wheels on a van.. I dont see how it will help you there on a van.
Anyway, if you must get spacers, do like richter said and get steel only. Also, you will most likely have to trim your existing lugs and make sure to use locktite on all lug nuts. You can speak with Fred Goeske in california at WheelAdapter.com. Hes well known, knowledgeable and can make them for you. He helped me out greatly with my 99. My new e-350 extended van was a little frightening on the highway so i added a hellwig front sway bar and did the steering stabilizer add on. It rides better than my expedition now.
Be careful with those spacers, not the best idea IMO!

 

I will say again, this is not safe, and your photo proved me to be correct, you have a semi-floating axle, it does not have the necessary bearing surface to do what you are trying to do, you will be putting the load out past the bearing, ever wonder why all duallys are on semi-floating axles. Stability issues aren't due to the width of your track, upgrade the swaybars, and the suspension, but leave that axle alone.

 

How about going the route of a good rear anti-sway bar, especially if you don't have one? And make sure you're using good tires--a number of us like Michelin LTX M/S. I've had my '02 E150 since new, in more than a few Detroit snowfalls, and it does very well. I also had an Eaton Posi installed in my van when it was new, and that makes a lot of diff in the winter. I frankly have never noticed the rears pulling into the front ruts.

Spacers will put more stress on the bearings as the others are saying, but if you are not carrying heavy loads, you may have a decent amount of extra capacity that won't fry the bearings as often.

I have not looked at the specs for your van, but on mine, the rear track is 2" narrower than the front, so it would take 1" spacers on each side to square it up. Look up the spec for your exact van or better yet, measure your own track width. If you gotta run spacers, stay with the narrowest you need to square the van--if you can get by with 1" (and if they make them), I'd go with those.

Good luck,
George

 

I would just go with wider tires in the rear. Adding spacers with that rear will shorten the life of the bearings. And if that rear is designed like an 8.8, (C-clip retainers with the axle serving as the inner bearing race) you should pull the axles and inspect the portion of the axle the bearing rides on before doing anything else.

 

And.......another Negative reply to using wheel spacers........

For the reason, from the picture you posted, the wheel rim "seats" on the axle hub for a reason, most of the vehicle weight is "supported" directly to the rim, and not just relaying on the wheel studs.

You describe "body-roll" on a high top van, very common, try running down the road with a cube van, that tops off at 10'-6" high and 8 foot wide.
Yes, it has a D70 axle, and duel wheels, which make a huge difference over what your running.

But.......I resolved the problem with body roll with using Timbren added suspension, Besides the body roll problem, it took the sag out of the rear springs, and helps with added loads in the van.

Here's the Link for their web site.

And, there made from your neighbors over in Ontario.

And NO, I'm not a sales rep for them, just a consumer that spent the money and gave then a try, and very well satisfied with the results.

And, replying to what Mikey_23_ny1 wrote, I agree that what you have been using would work, as you should have a D70 axle, and the axle hub is still long enough for the wheel rim to support the axle. The box is wide enough to "cover" the wheels. If your running larger than stock 235/75/16 tires, then with the added weight, the tires will rub together, and that causes another problem. I also learned from my tire guru that the outer tire will wear out faster than the inside tire on duels, thus the need to rotate the tires often, from side to side, or flipping the inner and outer.

 

That's not true. If the outer tire is wearing faster than the inner tire, you're not keeping the inner tire properly inflated to match the outer tire's pressure. If both are maintained at the same pressure (both have to be the same tire as well) they will wear equally. I know this to be true from 38 years experience in trucking. (18 wheelers) Now sometimes you'll get strange wear patterns on either tire over time, but that's due to differences in the rubber compound. If either tire wears faster than the other, that can be due to one tire being under inflated compared to the other tire. On a tandem drive axle, the tires on the rear axle will wear faster than the tires on the front drive, this is because the front drive axle "freewheels" all the time. Thus the rear axle is doing all the work in transmitting the power to the ground. The front drive only "pulls" when the interaxle differential is engaged.

 

Now your comparing Apples (16" rims) to Oranges (24" rims) and single axles to tandem axles.

Plus your variables do weight in on how/which tire wears.

My tire guru has been doing tires for over 40+ years, and taking over his fathers business, I've been dealing with him for over 35 years, and he sells/changes tires on every thing from lawn mowers to tractor/trailers, so I'll kind of take his word for this. He's not a truck driver.

And I am talking about the same size/type/pressure in all 4 rear tires, and after plucking down $630 last December for four of the same tires for the rear axle, I'll also take his word for this after seen the outer tire wear quicker on the last set I bought from him 4 years ago on my retired '94 E350 cube van, which I also rotated once a year.

Could your reasoning be the main reason that most trucking company's are switching to single rear tires on both tractors and trailers??? I fact, I just seen a semi dropping nitrite at the tungsten plant near my shop today, running all singles.