The water pump of my 93'Bronco (351W 5.8L EFI) start leaking big time. after reading the Haynes and Chilton's I started the recomended dismantling procedure. Radiator hoses, Fan blades, Fan Pulley, AC and Power steering compressors etc etc.
Two of the longer water pump screw broke regardles my "liquid wrench", Heat, and hammering treatment.
These 2 screws goes through holes in the timing chain cover and broke somewhere before reaching the actual block, so if I'm able to remove the timing chain cover, I will have about 1 to 1/2 inch of the broken bolt exposed AND will be able to repeat the heat-hammering-oiling treatment directly at the threads this time increasing the chances of succesful removal.

To remove the timing chain cover I need to remove the crankshaft damper. I used a screwdriver to stop the crankshat to turn and for my surprise the external part of the damper moved !!!

Seems that there is a worn-out rubber inbetween the damper and the damper "core" or inner part.

My questions:

1- How do I stop the crankshaft from turning while loosening the big mean 15/16" bolt ???

2- Will I need to replace the whole damper since the alignement between timing marks and damper "core" (therefore crankshaft, pistons etc) is gone ?


Thanks, you Guys are my last hope
(Well.. I'm seeking some inmediate help in a 2nd Heineken too)

 

Put a breaker bar on the 15/16" bolt. Then rotate the breaker bar all the way until it contacts the frame on the passenger side of the vehicle. At this point, make sure that the socket is perfectly on the bolt; otherwise you'll cause a lot of heartache. Then, bump the starter for just a second, and you should have broken the bolt loose.

Yes, the damper is a complete unit, so you'll be replacing the entire thing. Costs about $60 at AutoZone, about $100 at Ford. Replace it now, or you'll be wishing that you had. If you let it break apart while you're driving, chances are that it will crack your timing cover and you'll be back to where you are right now.

Mine broke on the side of the road about 30 miles out of town on Monday, and I started this repair on the side of the road. With about 1/2" left pulling the damper off the crank, I broke the puller by not paying attention and backing it out beyond its threads. It cost me a tow home so I could do it with my puller (broke my brother-in-law's puller because it's what I had).

This is a pretty simple job.

 

I just had to change my water pump and timing gears/chain as well. It's a pretty easy job but it is time consuming.

Since you're going to have to pull the timing cover, you might as well replace the timing gears and chain while you're in there. Pull the radiator, shroud, clutch fan, and water pump. (which you obviously already did) Don't forget to pick up the timing cover gasket set!!

If you have access to an air impact wrench, use it to break the damper pulley bolt loose. If not, thread two bolts into the damper pulley puller holes and use a pry bar or something similar to keep it from rotating while you loosen the bolt. You'll need a puller to get the damper pulley off so you can pull the timing cover.

Yes, you will need to replace the damper pulley. If the outer ring has spun, the timing mark on the damper pulley will be wrong and you won't be able to check the timing.

Good luck!

 

Good idea! I did it the hard way......

 

Thank you Guys!, I think I will buy a long 1/2 driver size breaker bar since what I have is a 3/8 set and yesterday was creaking and screaming like showing it was not up to the job in progress.

I bought this Bronco just 3 month ago and with 172K miles and very abused it seems to be a project above my strengh. Already had an oil pump problem and replacing it was a major dismantling endeavour. but it was successfull. My oil pressure is now 60 cold and 25 idling warm.

Now the water leak, AC/radiator broken, broken bolts, timing chain, crankshaft damper, etc etc

There are still other issues to be solved with the 4WD but I will keep them for later.

Let's have only one headache at a time

Will let you know the outcome...Thanks

 

Wow, sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. Good luck.

You also could have used a chain wrench and a breaker bar to get that bolt loose without cranking the engine; I forgot to mention that last night.

A breaker bar is a great investment; it'll save you when you don't have pneumatics available or when they don't fit. A cheap 1/2" set wouldn't hurt either...

 

Okay I have to jump in here with my own question..
I had (have) a water leak in the water jack..work in progress I need to replace the front cover gasket..here's the problem..
I have the whole thing just about dismantled..left the oil pan on (removed the front bolts of course. Acc's all off and water pump etc ..damper is off and the retaining bolt is off, put a puller on the crankshaft pulley and I can't budge it. not even a smidge..wondering if there's a trick or something I might be doing wrong with the bolt threading into the holes? I had brass bolts threaded in and they started to bend for which i'll get steel bolts for the next attempt but I can't help but think I'm missing something?

 

On the three engines I've pulled the pulley has been bolted to the damper, so if you pulled the damper you've pulled the pulley. Could you clarify a little bit, I'm not sure I'm getting you question right...

 

Good point...allow me to rephrase.
The 4 bolts surrounding the center bolts = off
they held on the outermost pully to the a/c...off
center bolt = removed
all that's left is the remaining dual pulley and that is what wont budge.

 

Check to be sure the center of the puller you're using isn't preventing the damper pulley from moving. The tapered tip on the end on the center of the puller should fit into the end of the crank but should NOT contact the damper pulley itelf. If it is, the damper pulley won't move.

 

Thought of that..tried using the puller without the tip just for argument's sake at risk of chewin up the threads..did this because without the tip it's narrower, however from what i can see the tapered tip does clear ..do you suppose a "jaws" style pulley puller like advanced auto parts has would work any better? or perhaps some pb blaster could work it's way in to loosen it up?

 

Just for reference, what year vehicle is this??

Do not use a puller that grabs onto the outside of the damper pulley as it will damage it.

May be kind of obvious but just one last thought.....be sure the washer from the damper pulley bolt is out of the center of the damper. There's usually some extra silicone behind it that squeezes out from the bolt threads that could hold it in place. The pulley won't go anywhere if the washer is still there.

 

it's an 89 2.9l ranger...
as for the washer..let me just say..AHA..you having said that I have to look ..the bolt is a "washer head"..could be a washer in there yet? It would sit flush inside?

 

Check for a washer. I made myself look stupid last week because I didn't catch the washer that was still stuck to the damper. Whoever assembled this engine used silicone to stick the washer in.

 

..Speaking of looking stupid..I checked for the washer to no avail, so I took someone else's suggestion of putting the center bolt back in part way and pushing against that with the puller ..sure enough it worked ..piece of cake..got it off and discovered my problem. There was a bloody woodruff key on the shaft that I couldnt see for squat. Funny how Haynes made no mention of this. GRRRRR!