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somewhere in there I used the handy tool I customized for the FE to remove the springs so I could install a weaker spring and a solid lifter along with the adjustable pushrod for proper pushrod length.
I also dropped the intake back in place with gasket to check for pushrod clearance and intake port alignment to the head using a Borescope. It looked great!
Once the long block was done I masked it off and sprayed with PPG concept. I found it lasts much longer than the typical spray can . .
I had a hard time to decide if black or corporate blue. The corporate blue I had formulated years ago from a NOS part but somehow the blue disappeared and was in a bin or box of unknown. I used the black . . LOL
I am not a fan of hardware store fasteners with washers, they look out of place so proper plated original style bolts were used. IMHO I think it adds a bit to install after paint vs just a blob of one color.
I did use a new set of ARP head bolts, same torque used as when final honing was done.
Boss9F100 - An excellent blow by blow. Thank you. I'm about to build my first ever engine and you provide an excellent perspective on what a careful build looks like.
Impressive work. Keep it coming. Thanks for the detailed account of your work.
Originally Posted by yellow truck
Boss9F100 - An excellent blow by blow. Thank you. I'm about to build my first ever engine and you provide an excellent perspective on what a careful build looks like.
Thanks!
Hoping to finish it up tomorrow.
I will most likely go the chassis dyno route vs the engine dyno because of availability. Be nice to do both again.
Expecting as in the past a minimum of 100hp loss flywheel vs rw
Boss9F100 - An excellent blow by blow. Thank you. I'm about to build my first ever engine and you provide an excellent perspective on what a careful build looks like.
If you do not want to wait for a engine this one will be completed today . . .
Box it up and ship it for probably far less than you can build one for.
Estimated 475 HP @ 5500 RPM
I would like to dyno it just so its not just a "educated guess"
On engine you plan on building you asked about compression ratio
On a 442 cube engine .020 over 390 4.070 bore
Zero deck
76 cc combustion chamber
1021 head gasket
In order to get 10.50 compression you would need a flat top piston with a
9 cc dish.
10 cc dish would be 10.4
8 cc dish would be 10.6
Common 12 cc would be 10.21
I would go with a hydraulic roller cam if you have the $$
I would suggest getting align bore good then same rod and piston in all four corners to check your deck clearance. With that then do the decking so you will have a zero piston to deck clearance.
Of course you have to come up with the proper piston first. To be in the ballpark.