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I pulled my fuel injectors on the drivers side to do a replace of #8 and cleaning of #4-#7. How do I get them back in now!?! I put a very light coat of oil on the bottom O-ring but pushing down with everything I've got still doesn't get them to "seat".
Did you get new Orings? I wouldnt use the old ones. Motor oil often causes rubber to swell. I used just a little hand soap with a bit of water. If all is well they should go on with a bit of elbow grease. When you are ready to start the motor. Turn the key to run position let the fuel pump run but dont turn over the motor. Check for leaks now. I had a split oring and it was shooting gas into the alternator at 60 psi. If the motor would have been running I think I would have had a bad situation.
Don't know about a '90, but for an '89 Ford says use motor oil ONLY on the o-rings. They seem pretty adamant about it for some reason. Mine didn't seem to seat in a real satisfying manner either, but they've never leaked a drop.
Yes, fuel in the hot alternator is not a good idea. I still can't remember why I did it, but I remember spraying carb cleaner into an alternator that had just finished smoking. It kept glowing for a few minutes afterwards...
The injectors don't exactly snap into place. Use motor oil on the O-rings (which you should have replaced), press the injectors into their holes, then press the fuel rail down and bolt it into place. You can rotate the injectors a bit to make sure they're seated if you feel uncomfortable about it.
If you break the plastic cap when prying off the old O-rings, it's called a pintle cap. Napa sells replacements for about $0.30/each. I replaced my entire set when I had the injectors off a couple of months ago.
The one pop should be enough. And I use PB Blaster to lube the O rings, and the insides of the fuel rails where the injectors seat. If the wiggle you're talking about is only when you have the injector seated in either the fuel rail or the lower intake, but not both, then that's perfectly fine. Like c_rossman said, the injectors float in between the fuel rail and the intake. All is good.
The wiggle room is on the intake side. I haven't installed the fuel rail yet, but I feel confident I can get it all the way down on top of the injectors without much trouble.
It was on the #8 hole and my reason for replacing it was a rough idle and a brown color on the spark plug I removed (the others were white) on the ?insulator?. I had run cleaners through the tank and had high pressure cleaning done through the fuel rail as well as testing done (and replacing) on several sensors.
I still have a rough idle, but should I wait a while for the cylinder to sort of clean itself up from any crud that may have built up due to a bad injector before I start replacing more injectors?
Has anyone else had this same experience? If so please share your story!!
I would check the compression. A weak cylinder will cause a rough idle. You may be able to do a cylinder balance test with that motor. I believe you pull codes as normal. When the computer quits giving codes goose the throttle and it will cut an injector at a time and check for idle changes. This wont work for banked injection motors
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