Service Engine Light at Acceleration Only
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Oregon Coast
Ok Update time. I swapped #4 and #8 injector to see if the light would not come on and the light still comes on. before the swap i was getting P1316 and when i did the KOEO i would get P1271 and P1277. the KOEO buzz test gets me P1271 and P1277. I pulled the harness off of the IDM and ohmed the connections, as per the GB tech bulletin #103 and got 3.2 Ohms for each of the cylinders. At one point i got 3.6-3.7 for #1 and #7 then they went down to 3.2. I am thinking of swapping just the solenoids ( #3 switched to #1 and #5 switched to #7 to see if the codes switch to #3 and #5 cylinder)? My thinking is that if i switch them and the code switches that maybe i can just replace the solenoids? Please let me know if im on the right track or if there is something else i should be doing? I assume that just because they ohm good doesnt mean they are working properly? Thanks again for all the advice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
If I remember right you have the red line caped. I myself still think this is aboost problem unless I'm thinking of another post. Put the red line back on and see what happens if I'm right. Sorry just trying to help.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 190
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From: North Oregon Coast
Where does the red line go? The main reason I don't think it is a boost issue is the codes I pull are for the #1 and #7 injectors plus the red line has been disconnected since I've owned it and the SES light issue came when the IDM filled with water. If I can find out where it goes I will hook it up tomorrow while I'm working on the solenoid swap.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 5
From: Salt Lake City, utah
Where does the red line go? The main reason I don't think it is a boost issue is the codes I pull are for the #1 and #7 injectors plus the red line has been disconnected since I've owned it and the SES light issue came when the IDM filled with water. If I can find out where it goes I will hook it up tomorrow while I'm working on the solenoid swap.
The redline will go to the wastegate on the turbo should have a 90* boot on it. I'm still following this thread since I have had the same problem but has only happened a few times and have come up empty on the cause.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 190
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From: North Oregon Coast
I assume on the back side of the turbo? I have not been able to see what the backside of the turbo looks like but I will check tomorrow. I have read a few threads where people had the same issue and never seen one where they told the cause. Know I want to fix it so that someone else that has the problem can know where to look.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Injectors 1, 4, 7, and 8? IDM? Swapping solenoids? This is going sideways. I would stop using codes. A code is nothing more than a hint of a symptom, meaning only you need to find the root cause of that issue - even if it's in an unrelated component.
For example - a 1211 can pop if a quick-disconnect on the fuel pickup line doesn't seal. One might protest "But Tugly, a 1211 is a HPOP code, and there is no sensor on the fuel pickup." Leaky QD leads to air in fuel, leads to air in injectors, leads to more oil demand from the injector to compensate.
Assuming you've driven the obligatory 100 miles to purge all air from the oil system after a stick pull: If the covers are still off, carefully observe the oil flow out of the spouts at idle. If this doesn't make anything obvious, get a temperature gun capable of reading over 600 degrees F (you need one for other stuff anyway), and aim it at each exhaust port at idle.
For example - a 1211 can pop if a quick-disconnect on the fuel pickup line doesn't seal. One might protest "But Tugly, a 1211 is a HPOP code, and there is no sensor on the fuel pickup." Leaky QD leads to air in fuel, leads to air in injectors, leads to more oil demand from the injector to compensate.
Assuming you've driven the obligatory 100 miles to purge all air from the oil system after a stick pull: If the covers are still off, carefully observe the oil flow out of the spouts at idle. If this doesn't make anything obvious, get a temperature gun capable of reading over 600 degrees F (you need one for other stuff anyway), and aim it at each exhaust port at idle.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 967
Likes: 7
From: coquitlam,BC
Ok Update time. I swapped #4 and #8 injector to see if the light would not come on and the light still comes on. before the swap i was getting P1316 and when i did the KOEO i would get P1271 and P1277. the KOEO buzz test gets me P1271 and P1277. I pulled the harness off of the IDM and ohmed the connections, as per the GB tech bulletin #103 and got 3.2 Ohms for each of the cylinders. At one point i got 3.6-3.7 for #1 and #7 then they went down to 3.2. I am thinking of swapping just the solenoids ( #3 switched to #1 and #5 switched to #7 to see if the codes switch to #3 and #5 cylinder)? My thinking is that if i switch them and the code switches that maybe i can just replace the solenoids? Please let me know if im on the right track or if there is something else i should be doing? I assume that just because they ohm good doesnt mean they are working properly? Thanks again for all the advice.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 190
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From: North Oregon Coast
I swapped the solenoids and still get the P1271 (#1) and P1277(#7) with both buzz test and KOEO test. I didnt read the post about checking oil output until after i had it all back together. Does buzz test also point out mechanical issues with the injector or only electrical? They all sounded the same and the RPM's went up to the same area. The IDM was replaced at the start of the issue because the old one filled with water. So to recap, the old IDM filled with water so i replaced it. The service engine light was on all times until i replaced the UVCH's and #8 injector ( #8 injector was at 2.1 ohms and faint on buzz test). After that work the SES light only comes on under load. I swapped #8 and #4 injector and the light still comes on under load. I swapped the solenoids #1 for #3 and #7 for #5 and the light still comes on under load and same codes. I guess next step will be to pull cover back off and check oil output. Gotta give it a rest for a while because my back is killing me and my hands are all busted up. Plus the wife is getting pissed. I will keep people updated
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: North Oregon Coast
Finally Fixed
Its fixed. I guess i should have driven it after i swapped the solenoids instaed of just scanning it. So far the SES light has stayed off when it would have previously came on and i even tried to get it to come on with WOT. Maybe one of the solenoids or injectors was loose? I did retorque the injectors on the passenger side. Thanks again for all the help it was a good learning experience.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Congratulations on the fix! Enjoy the drive.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 190
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From: North Oregon Coast
I had over 300 miles driven after I replaced the #8 injector so I ruled out air. Could a loose injector or loose solenoid cause a code? Whatever it was I hope its fixed.