I have a 1978 F250 Custom that I am getting ready to do some serious maintenance on. I picked it up about a year ago for a very good deal. However, it leaks everything. And I have some time coming up that I can fix it all. Id like some opinions on some things.

Truck stats: 1978 F250 Custom, 400, NP435, NP205, D60 rear, D44 front.

I'm planning on the following:

Oil Filter - Wix 51515
Oil - Amsoil Z-ROD 10w30
NP435 - Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90
NP205 - Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90
D60 - Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90
D44 - Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90

What does everyone think of these choices? How many quarts of each are needed?

Other than fixing the leaks and putting in all new fluids, it also needs a tune-up. What spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor does everyone recommend?

Anyone have a sure fire method for cleaning oil off the undercarriage? I was planning on soaking it all down with Simple Green and then using my pressure washer.

Any other helpful ideas/advice yall might have?

Thanks!!

 

I always use Wix filters. I prefer Mobil 1 to Amsoil though - lacks the MLM angle and has way more R&D behind it. Amsoil won't hurt anything, just a bit over-hyped and over-priced in my opinion.
Capacities should be listed in both the owners' and factory service manuals - the latter are well-worth the investment for these trucks. You can usually find complete sets or CDs on eBay.
Unless you're adding a supercharger or something, the standard Autolite or Motorcraft plugs that the parts store will come up with for the engine, and a cap & rotor and 8mm plug wire set from BWD or a similar brand will be fine. No need to go with anything crazy for a stock setup.
That's a good approach. You may need to use a large flat-head screwdriver or something to scrape off some of the more caked-on grime, depending on how powerful your pressure washer is, but Simple Green + a pressure washer did pretty well for me.

When replacing gaskets to seal up the leaks, it might be worth switching to modern rubber-coated metal gaskets where available, rather than cork - they tend to last longer and seal better. I also tend to use a thick bead of RTV along the front and back of the intake manifold rather than using cork there too.

 

I get a good deal on Amsoil, thats why I use it.

I dont have either at the moment, I will look for the CD set. Anyone have good links?

Thanks!!

Its 3100psi, so I think it will work, if not I do own a bunch of screwdrivers and paint scrapers.

Do you have a good source for modern gaskets for these engines, trans, t-cases?

Thanks for all the info!!

 

Fair enough. Like I said, it won't hurt anything, I just wouldn't pay what they ask for it.
Do a search on eBay - something should come up:
1978 ford truck service manual | eBay
No idea on trans/t-cases; maybe someone else can chime in. For the engine, I look on Rock Auto and select Fel-Pro gaskets that are rubber rather than cork, when they're available.

 

Found it on Amazon, ordered. Thanks!!

Thanks, I was just about to head there for cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, etc.

 

FYI, RockAuto also sells Felpro gaskets for the NP435 and the NP205.

 

Good to know! I don't have a 4wd truck, so had never checked.

 

I do believe the 400 needs 7qts of oil.

 

The lubes sound fine. I used common 80W90 but your choice is good also.

As far as cleaning, Simple Green + pressure washer is good. It may not get the heavy grime off though. Pre-treat with some mild solvent (paint thinner) and a stiff brush on heavy grime helps a lot. Getting it completely clean may take a couple of iterations. Pre-treat, simple green, pressure wash. Let it dry and hit again.

After it is clean you will be able to find location of any oil leaks.

 

Thanks everyone!! Parts are starting to roll in. Didn't have any time this weekend to start cleaning it up though.

 

Worked on the truck on Sunday. Replaced all 4 shocks, spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Resealed the front and rear diffs and put in fresh gear oil.

I also received my shop manual and it says that the engine has to be raised to drop the oil pan. Looking at it from underneath it seems that if I jack the truck up, and place jack stands under the frame, and then take the tires off and let the axle fully droop that I should be able to remove the oil pan that way. Thoughts?

After checking it out it seems that the oil leaks are only from the oil pan, and the valve covers. So I want to get those replaced ASAP, and then when I pull the trans and t-case to reseal them, Ill swap out the rear main as well.