You have the stock On/Off switch and the column lock AND you also have an ignition switch. Which one are you planning on using?

 

In the rewiring, I've gone back to the one on the column (the dash-mounted switch is not connected any more). I'm keeping the dash one in place until I know for sure that the column-mounted switch works (won't know that until I finish up with the wiring job). If it does work, I will probably remove the dash switch and plug the hole. I will want to lube the column one, though, as it's a bit sticky and I don't want to break the key off when I turn it.

On another note, I'm keeping the after market turn indicator but now that I've bypassed the fusebox altogether, I'm wondering what to do with a wire that used to run from the indicator to a 20 amp fuse. Should this go to the circuit breaker now? If so, to which spot?

My oil pressure sending unit arrived, and a quick look at where it should go was confusing. There is a tube running from the rear part of the block to the top of the oil filter canister, and another tube running from the bottom of the canister to somewhere under the engine block. That tube on the bottom is attached to a brass T-fitting that has a second tube that used to run to the mechanical gauge (which I've gotten rid of). So, I'm wondering where the sending unit should go ... it doesn't fit into the brass T-fitting, but it looks like it should fit where the tube is coming from the rear part of the block. However, if I put it there, it's not clear to me what I should do with the tube that is currently running from that spot to the top of the oil filter canister (it won't fit into the new sending unit, and the unit is designed to be connected via a wire to the gauges). Also, it's not clear what I should do with the stub that now comes off of the brass T-fitting under the canister. Pictures will probably help clarify what I'm talking about, so here goes.

As always, I appreciate and and all advice!






At the top of this shot, you can see the bottom of the oil filter canister. The stub coming off of that used to go to the mechanical gauge, while the other tube returns oil to the engine.





Here's the tube coming from the rear part of the block. It goes to the top of the oil filter canister.

 

I think I ran my turn signals off of the switch side of the circuit breaker but any "Hot" will do.
The sending unit is not gonna go into the oil line, it goes into the block. It looks like where the line goes into the block, there is a plug where the sending unit would screw in. Or the line goes into the plugged hole and the sending unit would go where the elbow is now. There are many experts here, so I defer to them. I have a 6.

 

Thanks for the tip on the turn signals, Lee.

Yes - the plug where the line goes into the block is threaded, so I figure that's where the sending unit should go. But once I do, there'd be no place to put that line.

 

Seems like you would remove the plug at the block, insert the sending unit, leave the elbow and supply line to the filter in place, remove the old mechanical gauge adapter from the tee under the filter, and plug the hole. The harness wire for the sending unit should be the correct length to connect to the sending unit.

 

I had to buy the oil sending unit wire (Mac's ?) to attach it to the harness.
Could you guys elaborate a little on where you tapped into "fused" power for the turn signals? I guess I could just use one of those in-line fuse holders.

 

I'm still confused on the oil sending unit. I've ordered the wire - not here yet. However, if I put the sending unit in the block, with a wire from it to the harness, then the tube leading from that area to the top of the oil filter canister doesn't have anywhere to connect on the engine end. I don't see how the sending unit can accommodate both the wire and the tube. It's one of these:

 

You already have the line to the filter connected. Put the sending unit into the currently plugged hole in the block. Hook up the wire. As was mentioned, the "T" connection on the oil filter canister isn't needed now. Remove it and hook up the line from the block there using an elbow (I think).

 

Thanks for the light bulb moment, Lee! I was thinking the unit had to go where the line currently goes - now I see the error of my thinking. Sometimes, I marvel at myself...

 

Don't fret; it's just a rest of your life learning process. I've learned a lot this past year, but many of the folks here have forgotten more than I will ever learn. I just noticed that I am now a "senior user". I qualify on age, but certainly not on knowledge. Just keep asking questions when you are not sure; there is no judging here.

 

Please make sure you have a proper restrictor in the supply to the oil filter canister. It threads directly into the cannister, then the supply line threads into it. There are two versions. The first version is simply a restriction in a fitting that threads into the filter and the line threads into. The second version is a T block that also allows you to attach the oil pressure sending unit in an easy to access location, right next to the oil filter. Without one of these restrictor fittings you will have almost to no oil pressure at idle and reduced oil pressure throughout the rest of the RPM range.

 

I've been blown away by the friendliness and encouragement of this forum. It makes a huge difference for tentative newbies like me!

I'm assuming that this restrictor should be at the top of the canister, since my understanding is that that the tube at the bottom is the return tube to the engine. Please correct me I'm wrong about where to look. I've not yet looked for it, but if there isn't one in place, I just might opt for the T version. Thanks for the tip!

 

Yes, the restrictor is at the top in the supply line.

I am not aware of any new production restrictors. You will likely have to find a NOS one or get a used one at a swap meet, from that auction site, etc.

 

Here's what is connected to the top of the canister. Is that a restrictor, or just a connector for the tube?

 

If you have oil pressure at an idle that is probably a restrictor. If you want the T version look for part number 1BA 6073.