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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Mar-02 AT 08:12 PM (EST)]Ok guys i ahve read all i need to on the radius arm bushing lots of great info now heres my twist if the metal on the bracket is Ok and not worn is it better/easier to replace just he bushings and heat shields or rather the whole kit and kaboodle!! I have a 93 f150 4x2 300 witha mazda 5 speed 140k
I'm sorry, but I'm not understanding your "twist" since I don't recall people posting about the steel brackets being bad.
The easiest way to do change them out is probably to have the bracket rivets ground off, pull the brackets off of the frame after taking off the big radius arm nuts (most probably with a six foot cheater bar), replace the bushings, use grade 8 bolts to reconnect the brackets.
I did it the hard way and changed them without taking the brackets off... geez, what a mistake that was. I probably spent three to four times the amount of time getting it all back together. Now that I have it together I still wish I would have taken it all apart and completely cleaned/protected the brackets from rust.
I think either way you tackle it a come-along (or two in my case) is a needed tool.
Hmm... I wonder how much it would cost to get those two brackets chromed after you got them off?
Gamma- Thanks for the advice I remember reading your post and laughing cause I thought s*&t like that only happened to me. Actually I traced the noise back to my drivers side front leafspring bolt/bushing I will tackle that in the next week or 2.
Try drilling the rivets out with a 7/16 \ths bit, then hit them with an air hammer if you want it to go faster. It can be done in an afternoon. Coat the new bushings with white lithium grease. Also I coated the front of the radius arms with copper grease at the mounts, in case of any shifting and movement. Also the bottom front nut torques to like 300 ft/lbs and the top around 240 ft/lbs. While you have the front end down be sure to check your rubber brake lines for any damage or dry rotting. Hope this helps.
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