Clutch Pedal Problem
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 22
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Clutch Pedal Problem
Here's my ongoing problem, had clutch, slave cylinder, throwout bearing pilot bearing replaced last year. 1,000 miles later clutch is toast again. After removal the clutch was shredded, like hash brown potatoes if you will. Replaced everything I mentioned before and now 3 times in a hundred miles my clutch pedal freezes. Mechanic states it's throwing the line at the connection under the driver's side of the cab. After last time he states the connection has been redesigned looks good now. I state clutch pedal does not feel right. Everyone except myself says it's fine, I've owned this truck for over 10 basically trouble free years, 108,000 miles no kids hammering on it. They soften me up a bit by bleeding the system and now a hundred miles later the pedal freezes and after I push it a bit pops and goes all the way to the floor ? Don't want a fight over this but, I'm stumped, Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
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Have you checked the master cylinder? If there is damage inside the mc it may be working intermittently and causing this catching/popping experience. It also may be causing your clutch to not fully engage when you release the clutch pedal which would cause some clutch slipping and ultimately burn up your new clutch. Just a thought...
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Worn pedal shaft bushings. I'm going through that now. Hopefully I'll get new bushings installed this weekend.
I started to half-a** it with that heim joint rig but decided to fix it right. I put the steel pushrod in mine and in a month it had ripped the bushing/retainer out
Of course if that coupling at the slave cylinder closed internally you would have broken the clutch rod by pushing on it hard.
The hydraulic line coupling self-seals just like a hydraulic line on a tractor.
coupler
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psqntlyjxf.jpg
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...pswqza9zge.jpg
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ckadsea.jpg
I started to half-a** it with that heim joint rig but decided to fix it right. I put the steel pushrod in mine and in a month it had ripped the bushing/retainer out
Of course if that coupling at the slave cylinder closed internally you would have broken the clutch rod by pushing on it hard.
The hydraulic line coupling self-seals just like a hydraulic line on a tractor.
coupler
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psqntlyjxf.jpg
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...pswqza9zge.jpg
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ckadsea.jpg
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 9
From: E.Lincoln County, NC
You get all of the bushings in a kit, F3TZ2C342A, except the one that goes on the pushrod and it can be had in Dorman #14041. The fingers on that bushing, photo 1, are the only thing that holds the rod on. Wear/mis-alignment of the pedal shaft FUBARS the bushing and off the rod comes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1997-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Clutch-Pedal-Bushing-Repair-Kit-OEM-NEW-F3TZ2C342A-/201263946453?hash=item2edc441ad5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1997-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Clutch-Pedal-Bushing-Repair-Kit-OEM-NEW-F3TZ2C342A-/201263946453?hash=item2edc441ad5&vxp=mtr
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Trailering
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 22
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Thanks, problem appears to have been misalignment/ non-compatability between the connecting rod on the clutch pedal and the master cylinder, both after market. This pressure also flexed the line popping it off at the connector just under the cab. We'll see. Seems like a problem that would've been redesigned.
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crunky944
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 8, 2012 09:33 PM
