Hi All,
Is there a way to find out which PCM is specific to my truck?
The hollander is showing 3 different choices for my truck using my VIN.
I know I can just unbolt mine from the mount and see which one I have, but I'm asking because I think I may have the wrong one installed from the PO.
I want to try to stay away from the dealer if I can for a reflash (too expensive)
Having the dealer flash my current one would be an option, but they are not going to want to flash the PCM without diagnosis 1 st.
I 'd rather just swap out with a working one and see if my problems go away.
Cheaper in the long run also.


FYI....2000 Excursion 5.4 with 152,000 on the clock.
I'm having misfire,surging,hesitation, issues WITHOUT any codes other than P1000. Problem is intermittent.
I can't get the P1000 code to reset. I have currently 41 drive cycles stored in the PCM, it should of cleared by now.
I have this posted in the Excursion forums also.

Thanks in advance, Jeff

 

18inchapes: Two cents buddy. I just went through this with the 5.8L in my 1995 Bronco. So, I suggest you slow down and try something simple first (which I did not). Conanski and others suggested that I look for possible arcing between plug wires. So at night I ran the engine and didn't see any arcing. So I replaced my EGR sensor and it didn't fix it (I don't think it needed replacement). I replaced my frame rail fuel filter (it really needed it) and my in-tank fuel pump (it needed that too). Nothing helped.

So, I pulled my PCM and opened it up to look for leaking/bulging of the three (now 20-year old) capacitors which notoriously fail in my EEC-IV PCM (yours is newer and is different) and the capacitors looked good, so I didn't replace them (although I will eventually).

After early morning Easter resurrection services (man those Presbyterians can sing!) at my mother in laws (because I had nothing to do) I was looking closely at the spark plug wires and I could see and feel roughness on the wire rubber where one wire was crossing over another wire. So I separated that wire from crossing over the other by stretching it over the valve cover plastic oil fill cap.

And the miss instantly was reduced.

Since then I installed a 9mm Ford Racing Spark Plug Wire Set* (from Summit Racing for $43) and two sets of Ford Racing Wire Separators ($14 ea. for plastic! but they look and work good), and guess what?

I HAVE NO MORE MISS OR HESITATION OR STUMBLING WHATSO-FRIGGIN'- EVER !!!

Let me repeat that for emphasis:

I HAVE NO MORE MISS OR HESITATION OR STUMBLING WHATSO-FRIGGIN'- EVER !!!

Finally, if you do this make, sure that you get a copy of your SPARK PLUG WIRE ROUTING DIAGRAM and follow it!!! Because of the firing order, certain wires have to run cross-ways to others (not parallel) so follow the routing diagram to a "T" and make sure you use wire separators (generics are half the price at Pep Boys) to keep the routed wires in place.

Just two cents from another guy who assumed it was the PCM and was about to replace it.

And finally, there is no substitute for pulling your PCM if you want to know its number. And if you can, photocopy or photograph the bar code and numbers on the exterior of the PCM. Otherwise, you are just guessing.

And one more thing, I attribute this all to the Easter Morning services. So go to church.


* The 9mm Ford Racing Spark Plug Wire set is really nice. Not only are the wires bigger than stock, but each wire for a specified engine is already fabricated in the correct length for that numbered cylinder (no need for you to cut and fabricate) and check this out: EACH WIRE IS NUMBERED ALONG ITS LENGTH WITH THE NUMBER OF THE CYLINDER IT GOES TO !!! (Even I couldn't screw this up.)

 

Hi Tim,
Thanks for the response. I've pretty much change a bunch of parts already and still have the problem.
Its easier at this point to list what I HAVE NOT changed....
PCM
Engine wire harness
crankshaft position sensor
8 Fuel injectors
O2 sensors (have new ones, just haven't had a chance to get under the truck)

Everything else has been changed,plugs.coilpacks,temp sensors,cam sensor,MAF etc...
WITH NO CHANGE to problem.
I firmly believe that the P1000 code not resetting is keeping the PCM from throwing codes, IE...The PCM doesn't see anything wrong because its still "learning"
The problem is,why? I have driven more than 3600 miles, and using my snap-on scanner, I can see the drive count (which is in the 40's) won't reset. It should of reset by now.
I would like to reflash the PCM and try that next, but I don't want to go to the dealer and deal with them trying to get some service work from me.
The only alternative i have is to get a used/refurbished PCM and swap it out with one in the truck.
Back to my question, There are 6 different choices for PCM's for my year/model,
Three are considered "low emissions", 3 are "standard emmissions". I assume mine is standard, so that leaves me 3 choices. How would i know which one is the correct one for my truck. Example.. a 2 wheel drive PCM is different from a 4 wheel drive.
I would like to compare part numbers with the correct one my truck calls for to the one I have already installed and make sure the correct one.

Thanks Jeff

 

According to Conanski, the EEC-IV PCM in my 1995 Bronco is not flashable. Just doesn't have any flash memory in there to flash.

I know the PCM in my 2002 7.3 E350 is flashable. And I know that Cleatus12r who is the tuning guru in the 7.3 forum told me that if I pulled the PCM and got the numbers off of it that I could easily find and buy a PCM from ebay or from Coparts.com (that nationwide wrecking yard) for a backup.

I think that the PATS stuff in the Excursion PCM may also give you issues if you don't find the exact one.

So, I really think you should just pull your PCM and photocopy or photograph the part number and other info on the case label and put the part number into google and go from there. Personally, I would rather spend the money on a used PCM than have the dealer do anything.

FYI, I had my wife's oem Dodge Dakota computer fixed by:

KlienBottleComputer.com

And I have had great success in buying used (they also flash them if necessary) PCMs for my wife's Dodge Dakota from:

AutoComputerExhange.com

 

Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), low emissions, ID YC3F-TC
Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), low emissions, ID YC3F-TD
Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), low emissions, ID YC3F-TE
Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), standard emissions (Fed), ID YC3F-UC
Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), standard emissions (Fed), ID YC3F-UD
Electronic Control Module, (LH outer firewall), 8-330 (5.4L), standard emissions (Fed), ID YC3F-UE

Doing a search on the web came up with these links. It looks like any of them will work, they are just updates of the other. UD is a update of UC. UE is a update of UD. YU7A-12A650-BVA is a update of UE.

Ford PCM YC3F-12A650-UC information

Ford PCM YC3F-12A650-UD information

Ford PCM YC3F-12A650-UE information

 

When I had the same problem with my 97 Explorer a quick look at the engine control wiring diagrams told me that the horn & PCM were wired to the same hot at all times fuse. Checked the horn & it was dead.

Replaced the fuse & drove it a couple days to reset the monitors and passed cal smog no problem.