That's just nuts!

It's important to be patient. A motor that's been locked up solid for twenty or thirty years isn't going to free up in a few days.

 

My late FIL had an 8N that he stored over the winters. One spring he went to start it and she smoked like a chimney. Smelling burnt wood he investigated and found chipmunks had filled the exhaust and muffler all the way to the manifold. They had managed to pack one cylinder too. I'd pop the heads and see whats up. Hey GB, do you have any pics of your specialty tool? Sounds like something that could be very handy.

 

Patience is definitely key. It took me almost three months once to get all the pistons out of a stuck 390 I picked up out of a junkyard.

 

I bought a 1951 8n that had sat more than 20 years, stuck tight! Pulled the plugs and poured in marvel mystery oil in each and let it sit for a week and tried to turn it, still stuck. Poured in some more face it a couple of days and tried again still stuck. Tried it every day for several days and finally got some movement. Kept trying and each day got more movement. Finally it broke loose and turned over easily. I did a carb overhaul plugs,wires, rotor cap, distributor cap and points and condenser. She cranked up but smoked like a tar kiln until the mystery oil burned off then ran like a sewing machine. Just have lots of patience so that you don't break anything.
Half atf and half acetone is better than MMO but I didn't know that then.
Elmo

 

I mixed some of that up - or tried to. It wouldn't mix. Maybe I used the wrong kind of ATF?

 

I will be pulling the heads in the next few days. Also the exhaust since I'm pretty sure that's where they came from. If it frees up enough that the starter will do the turning all by itself, then I'll put it back together. If there's something expensive to fix that would require a machine shop, then I'll give it to someone willing to do that work on it!

 

I wrote this many time before. I never had luck with snake oils. Take a
bolt in the sea only way is with heat. Last one I did, like this (takes time
take patients take the phone off the hook). I got a propane burner for
sizziling chicken wings. Take the thermostat out block all water outlets,
I poured boiling water in the block, while the next batch of water is
boiling, drain block pour in new boiling water until the block is at full
boiling takes awhile keeping the block high temp I boiled CRC and poured
that in the cylinders meanwhile still pouring new boiling water in the block.
This heat get into every nook and cranny, like a hot rag on ya stiff neck,
everything gets relaxed. After that was a success, my next one was a lot
faster. same propane setup but I welded up a container and steamed it.
I found the steam works faster with no wet hot feet and mess. So make
a boiler & attach to the lower inlet and watch the power of steam. ON
extreme cases maybe a couple of times. the key is expansion and
contraction and it gets to all working parts. then if you have a slightly
stuck , maybe just boiling your favorite snake oil in cylinders may do it.

 

I am working on a 74 360 that is frozen up. I've filled the cylinders with MMO tugged on the crank bolt so hard I've bent the ratchet handle. I've pulled the radiator so I have more room to work on the front side but I'm leery about too much pressure on the crank bolt. Can any of you offer suggestions or advice on the best way to get a good grip on crank any tricks for a newbie.

 

How long has the engine been stuck, and how long have you let the MMO soak in?

 

The 292 y block on my '56 C600 chassis was stuck tight for the last year. Couldn't budge it at all. Removed all the plugs and poured trans fluid, acetone, and anything else I could find into it. I tried to wrench it over with no luck.


Last week a friend came over and we removed the exhaust manifolds and found the usual mouse remnants . Still wouldn't turn over , despite soaking for 6 months. Pulled the heads, and didn't see anything broken, just all the fluids I poured in. A 5 foot pipe wrench on the dampner did the trick, and it turns freely.


I am not going to use the engine or chassis on my build, but at least a new owner won't have to go through the hoops like I did.


Regards, Mark.

 

Another vote for MMO. When it works (and often does) the engine will usually run. When it doesn't, there are usually more serious problems.

 

The truck has set and not run for at least 5 years. I've had the MMO in for about a week and a half. Question- to those of you and who have been here done this. Did you remove the crankshaft pulley or just leave it in place and work the bolt?

 

You have to be real cautious about using the crank bolt to try to turn it. Twist that off in the crank and you'll have a real mess.

If the problem is piston rings rusted to their bores, snake oil in the cylinders will usually do it, but heat like Big Job says is better. If the crank has holes bored in the counterweights, pulling the pan and sticking a bar or pipe in those to try to turn it is real safe, and you can go both ways (unlike the crank bolt). Using the flywheel, or rocking the truck in 3rd gear can do it too.

If it's the lifters rusted in their bores, valves stuck in their guides, you ought to pull it apart (assuming it's an engine you want to keep and rebuild). Especially on an OHV, you'll just bend something trying to turn it.

One flathead I have got water in the lifter valley and half of the valves had to be cut out with a plasma torch, and the lifters driven out with a 3-lb sledge. It was not pretty... And after all that, it was clear that the engine had been set up wet and froze, cracking the block.

 

Success!!!!!!! Finally today I wrapped a chain wrench around the crank pulley and gave the old girl a couple smacks with a rubber mallet... She moved about an inch. Another pop - another inch... Within an hour I had her turning freely!!!!! Ahhhh yeah.... Now need to figure out where my ignition short is and fix that. ��

 

I will be doing this again shortly..
Just brought home a 1965 Buick Riviera Gran Sport, luxury hot rod with the super wildcat 425 nailhead with dual AFB four barrels. Car has been sitting in a dingy damp rain leaking garage for over 30 years with the spark plugs OUT. I think the heads will have to come off but I am going to try the MMO first.