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EOT was 50 over ECT!!

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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:26 AM
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oughtsixbigred's Avatar
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EOT was 50 over ECT!!

So we were towing our toy hauler, about 8500 lbs up a hill going over the coast range and I saw on the scan gage the EOT about 230 and the ECT about 200, then as we crest the summit it hit 259 and the ECT was 209. Cruising on the flat it stayed about 20 degrees over the coolant which tells me it's time for oil and EGR cooler replacement. The truck is a 2006 with 50K on it, I can do the replacement myself but I asked a local shop who specializes in super dutys what they charge and they strongly recommended changing the head studs also at the cost of $8500 for them to do it. Is it necessary to do the studs if Im not having any problems? I do not want to do the heads myself so it would be the shop doing the work.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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I wouldn't do the studs unless you show cooling system pressure over 16psi after the oil cooler/EGR cooler swap. Why buy trouble if it isn't for sure broke?

$8,5000 sounds very steep to me, but maybe it's because I haven't priced studs lately?

Did you double check for sensor bias by comparing cold soak temps? If the split popped up suddenly I'd start there first, just to make sure a $100 sensor doesn't cost you $8,500.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by oughtsixbigred
So we were towing our toy hauler, about 8500 lbs up a hill going over the coast range and I saw on the scan gage the EOT about 230 and the ECT about 200, then as we crest the summit it hit 259 and the ECT was 209. Cruising on the flat it stayed about 20 degrees over the coolant which tells me it's time for oil and EGR cooler replacement. The truck is a 2006 with 50K on it, I can do the replacement myself but I asked a local shop who specializes in super dutys what they charge and they strongly recommended changing the head studs also at the cost of $8500 for them to do it. Is it necessary to do the studs if Im not having any problems? I do not want to do the heads myself so it would be the shop doing the work.
There is no way I would tear apart a perfectly running engine to do head studs, she will tell you when and if the time ever comes that the head gaskets need to be replaced and that is when you would do the head studs. The only other circumstance where you would install head studs is if you planned on running a monster tune on it. I would do the oil and EGR coolers and just drive and enjoy it.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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What were the conditions surrounding the event, Ambient Temp, head wind no wind, how many ours had you been driveing before the event.Fan working correctly?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:57 AM
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Jumped thread for some reason
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 12:30 PM
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50* seems a bit high. I will seen a delta of up to 30* when topping a good hill climb but slowly see the two numbers get back to between 12-15* once running flat again.
I'd run it empty and flat at 65mph to set a baseline. I'd then expect 8-12* avg delta.

Many will stud an engine when adding addition turbo psi or a tuner. Most have said its not a big deal if you only run stock.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 01:41 PM
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Going rate in CA at reputable powerstroke shops is $6500. $8500 is a joke!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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The 15 deg standard is based on an unloaded truck. Was your fan roaring trying to cool everything down? As stated check a cold soak sensor reading, wait 12 hours before checking, tft ect eot iat1. Also how is your coolant cap? There are a lot of bad caps out there venting below 16 psi, something to check if it is running hot.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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I feel better after reading the comments. What is a cold soak? I can search but it may be quicker if someone comments here. The out side temp was 53 degrees, I don't remember the fan being loud. Maybe it is the sensor. Good info, thanks all
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oughtsixbigred
I feel better after reading the comments. What is a cold soak? I can search but it may be quicker if someone comments here. The out side temp was 53 degrees, I don't remember the fan being loud. Maybe it is the sensor. Good info, thanks all
Cold soak just means after the truck has not been run over night and check the temperatures before you start the truck the next morning.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 07:27 PM
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i agree with 78fordman if you have the original cap its time to replace it. Mine ran much cooler when i replaced the cap.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 01:00 AM
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Just for reference, my studs were done for $4000 (outside of Redding, CA / where I blew my heads). Local shop in k.falls wanted $8500 also.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 02:04 PM
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I did a cold soak this morning, outside was 47 degrees and so were both the EOT and ECT. Ran at 60 mph on flat and delta was between 8 and 12 degrees. Could the 50 degree difference be a sensor? I will throw on a new cap for giggles.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 05:57 AM
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I would also check to make sure you fan was running correctly. Try testing your deltas at 65-70 MPH on a flat 15 mile run but what you posted so far the temps seem to be ok.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by oughtsixbigred
I did a cold soak this morning, outside was 47 degrees and so were both the EOT and ECT. Ran at 60 mph on flat and delta was between 8 and 12 degrees. Could the 50 degree difference be a sensor? I will throw on a new cap for giggles.
I would expect that the sensor either works properly or it doesn't. If it's in the 8-12* range now, it wouldn't expect it to be wrong at the high end.
Testing at 47* outside temp, might give you a false sense iof the trucks cooling capacities, knowing the problem will show more effect, at much higher outside air temps.
I too replaced my coolant cap as that's a good place to start.
 
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