2 trucks 2 questions
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From: Washougal
2 trucks 2 questions
My 88 F150 will idle up n down to an almost stall when engine is hot and started. I replaced the coolant temp sensor on the top of the 300 I6 motor but need to fix code 51. where is this other sensor?
*21 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor "FIXED"
*51 Coolant Temp Sensor
*34 EGR Control Circuit
*34 Evap Control System
*67 A/C Compressor Clutch Switch? "No A/C"
*67 Neutral Drive Switch? "Manual 4 speed"
I am looking into picking up a 88 250 big block but one problem, see first 20 seconds of video below. What could it be? is it worth $300?
*21 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
*24 Air Temp Sensor
*15 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Test Failed
*21 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor "FIXED"
*51 Coolant Temp Sensor
*34 EGR Control Circuit
*34 Evap Control System
*67 A/C Compressor Clutch Switch? "No A/C"
*67 Neutral Drive Switch? "Manual 4 speed"
I am looking into picking up a 88 250 big block but one problem, see first 20 seconds of video below. What could it be? is it worth $300?
*21 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
*24 Air Temp Sensor
*15 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Test Failed
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,776
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you have 2 coolant temp sensors on the 300, IIRC theres one on top around the thermo (sounds like the one you replaced) and one at the base of the intake on the side of the engine. that's probably the one that is bad...if you have your old one try using it in that location or just buy a new one.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 113
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From: Washougal
I think the 2nd one is for the gauge and is a single wire. but that one won't cause my current issue, would it?
Could the EGR cause idle issues on warm start?
I also want to know if this big block F250 is worth $300. Would need to rent dolly. +$75
Has A/C which I want to install in my F150 I6 which came un-equipped.
The tailpipe exhaust looks sturdy and I am missing mine.
The weather stripping looks ok.
Window Frame assys. - $45 used
Wiper components.
Floor boards.
Windows are excellent, Specifically the Windshield. - $130 new
Radiator core support - Not sure if compatible - $189 new
Hood bumpers - $5 new
Scrap value at $200
Could the EGR cause idle issues on warm start?
I also want to know if this big block F250 is worth $300. Would need to rent dolly. +$75
Has A/C which I want to install in my F150 I6 which came un-equipped.
The tailpipe exhaust looks sturdy and I am missing mine.
The weather stripping looks ok.
Window Frame assys. - $45 used
Wiper components.
Floor boards.
Windows are excellent, Specifically the Windshield. - $130 new
Radiator core support - Not sure if compatible - $189 new
Hood bumpers - $5 new
Scrap value at $200
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 443
I'm not positive, but I think the second temp sensor (the one in question) is for the gauge and to let the eec know when it can go into closed loop. if that's the case, yea it would cause issues but perhaps not the ones youre experiencing. if its the only code youre throwing, its worth a shot.
300 is worth it, last truck I tore down for engine/trans and I'd bought for 300 and still made money on the scrap.
300 is worth it, last truck I tore down for engine/trans and I'd bought for 300 and still made money on the scrap.
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From: Washougal
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Washougal
What tha deuce?
Could it be reading an error in my gauge sensor? I only seen it go up almost half way even when the engine gave off more heat then usual. The one in green is a new sensor and fixed error 21. Which coolant sensor is error 51? This is an 88 F150 with an Inline 6 motor and 3 speed granny. "4 gears + R" These are the codes thrown
*21 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor "FIXED"
*51 Coolant Temp Sensor
*34 EGR Control Circuit
*34 Evap Control System
*67 A/C Compressor Clutch Switch? "No A/C"
*67 Neutral Drive Switch? "Manual 4 speed"
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 443
If your dtc codes above are straight out of the book; based off the verbiage, I'd guess the engine coolant temp sensor is for your gauge, and the coolant temp sensor is the other one. Just a wild educated guess....
But allegedly the sensor in the back is for the gauge, and you didnt replave that one, so I may be wrong. Either way, if you're throwing 2 different codes for 2 different ect and one code is satisfied with the replacement of one, it'd stand to reason that the other is bad and needs replacing also.
The egr control circuit is another cause for poor drivability. Make sure everything is plugged in, there are no broken/corroded c9nnectors, and all the wiring is in tact. Next place to look would be solenoid or the sensor, but they have their own codes so somethin funky would have to be wrong there to throw the circuit code.
But allegedly the sensor in the back is for the gauge, and you didnt replave that one, so I may be wrong. Either way, if you're throwing 2 different codes for 2 different ect and one code is satisfied with the replacement of one, it'd stand to reason that the other is bad and needs replacing also.
The egr control circuit is another cause for poor drivability. Make sure everything is plugged in, there are no broken/corroded c9nnectors, and all the wiring is in tact. Next place to look would be solenoid or the sensor, but they have their own codes so somethin funky would have to be wrong there to throw the circuit code.