400 low power
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 801
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From: Toledo, Ohio
. I think Woodward Avenue has lots of engine rebuilders on it... they don't call it The Motor City / MoTown for nothing... Have you been to GreenField Village / The Henry Ford Museum yet?
. It's OK if vacuum hose goes to intake instead of carb... ported vacuum at carb. just has something to do with emissions junk, I think...
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The Guy at Autozone told me they dont sell this part :/.
I ordered one at orileys.
Didn't visit Ford Museum yet but i definitely will!
Still didn't got my hands on a timing light yet, will ask some guys at work today if they got one. Also have to fix my brake line to the rear wheels because its rusted through and break fluid runs out of it.
Found a cheap Edelbrock Intake and Holley 600 cfm with vacuum secondary and e-chocke.
Around 170$ for both.
What you think about this combo?
I ordered one at orileys.
Didn't visit Ford Museum yet but i definitely will!
Still didn't got my hands on a timing light yet, will ask some guys at work today if they got one. Also have to fix my brake line to the rear wheels because its rusted through and break fluid runs out of it.
Found a cheap Edelbrock Intake and Holley 600 cfm with vacuum secondary and e-chocke.
Around 170$ for both.
What you think about this combo?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Any of the aftermarket intakes are fine, as is the Holley - although I like Edelbrocks better for a daily driver as they are more set-and-forget. However, a low-compression engine can't wind up very high so can't really take advantage of a 4bbl carb.
However, I worry about introducing new problems before you get the existing ones fixed. So, I'd recommend getting the engine running correctly before swapping the intake and carb. That way if something goes wrong with the swap you will know.
However, I worry about introducing new problems before you get the existing ones fixed. So, I'd recommend getting the engine running correctly before swapping the intake and carb. That way if something goes wrong with the swap you will know.
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I will do some research what carb type / size is best for my needs.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Depends on how far you intend to wind it. If you aren't going about about 4000 RPM then a 600 CFM will suffice. But, if you are headed to 5,500 R's then a 750 would be closer. However, with low compression you'll be hard pressed to reach 5,500 RPM as the engine will run out of steam before that and you'll want to shift.
As for brand of carb, here's my take - and you get what you pay for, which means this advice is worth what you are paying for it - nothing.
As for brand of carb, here's my take - and you get what you pay for, which means this advice is worth what you are paying for it - nothing.
- Holley: A complex carb with a lot of tuning potential. And, IMHO, the best carb for racing as it can be dialed in for any eventuality. However, some of its design also causes problems in daily driving. For instance, the gaskets holding the bowls on and the gasoline in can leak. And the power valve and accelerator pump can leak or split, and that usually causes a massively-rich condition. Further, on an early carb w/o the check ball having been added a single backfire can blow the power valve.
- Edelbrock: These were originally the Carter AFB or AVS carbs and they are what I grew up with. They are more simple than the Holley and don't have the ability to be tuned as completely - at least not without drilling out passages or bleeds. However, they usually work well out of the box and don't have the problems I've seen with Holley's, like gaskets holding in the gas or power valves or accelerator pumps that are delicate. On the other hand, in my experience they give away a little bit of power on the top end compared to a Holley. But, since I rarely race I can give up the little bit of power for the set-and-forget where I know it'll run right day after day.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 801
Likes: 7
From: Toledo, Ohio
. Intake and carb. sounds like a good deal... usually lucky to find intake for that... has to be a "400" intake (also fits 351M)... no other intake works...
. You prolly won't be here long enough to do cam and pistons, so a 600 carb. will be big enough.... otherwise, I'd suggest 650-750 size...
. The Holley 600 will prolly need different primary jets... ~#62 for 300" engine... ~#66 for 350" engines... ~#68-72 for 400" engines... what's in there already may depend on what the carb. came off of...
. Since the Holley and your carb. use about the same accelerator pump, you're already familiar with that... there are paper or re-usable rubber gaskets for the float bowls... I'm sure you know which ones I'd suggest...
. Checked with my local AutoZone, said couldn't get just the accelerator pump rubber diaphragm any more, only in a $20 rebuild kit... not sure if a Holley one from a speed shop would work...
. You prolly won't be here long enough to do cam and pistons, so a 600 carb. will be big enough.... otherwise, I'd suggest 650-750 size...
. The Holley 600 will prolly need different primary jets... ~#62 for 300" engine... ~#66 for 350" engines... ~#68-72 for 400" engines... what's in there already may depend on what the carb. came off of...
. Since the Holley and your carb. use about the same accelerator pump, you're already familiar with that... there are paper or re-usable rubber gaskets for the float bowls... I'm sure you know which ones I'd suggest...
. Checked with my local AutoZone, said couldn't get just the accelerator pump rubber diaphragm any more, only in a $20 rebuild kit... not sure if a Holley one from a speed shop would work...
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Hey Guys, thanks again for the advice! The Holley currently sits on a engine (350 i think) and runs. Its not shining fancy but i am okay with that. Intake would be a 2 hour drive tho... someone near Bryan Ohio ? 
Can you tell me some experiences with a Summit 600 cfm carb?
Today i tried to fix the break line that goes to the back and is leaking. I wanted to cut off both ends, so i can tell the guy at Orileys what i need. I wanted to do the quick and dirty version with just 2 complete lines (i mean already flared and with fittings) and just put a adapter between it. While i was trying to pull on the break lines the fuel line cracked open. It already dropped a few drops on the floor at the spot where it did break.
I think both fuel and brake line a rusted through on the same spot on the car, kinda like right behind the front wheel. The rest of the fuel line in the front and the back is covered in oil and 39 year old grease, so it didn't rusted there. I bought a fuel hose, so i can bridge the rusted area. Quick and dirty again
This got me back on the ground, so i am putting my thoughts and time back into making this beauty run reliable again first... Have to cancel my appointment at the muffler shop tomorrow
Since it was opening day today in Detroit, a lot of people took a day off, so no success on the timing light either
Can you tell me some experiences with a Summit 600 cfm carb?
Today i tried to fix the break line that goes to the back and is leaking. I wanted to cut off both ends, so i can tell the guy at Orileys what i need. I wanted to do the quick and dirty version with just 2 complete lines (i mean already flared and with fittings) and just put a adapter between it. While i was trying to pull on the break lines the fuel line cracked open. It already dropped a few drops on the floor at the spot where it did break.
I think both fuel and brake line a rusted through on the same spot on the car, kinda like right behind the front wheel. The rest of the fuel line in the front and the back is covered in oil and 39 year old grease, so it didn't rusted there. I bought a fuel hose, so i can bridge the rusted area. Quick and dirty again
This got me back on the ground, so i am putting my thoughts and time back into making this beauty run reliable again first... Have to cancel my appointment at the muffler shop tomorrow
Since it was opening day today in Detroit, a lot of people took a day off, so no success on the timing light either
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
The Summit carb is the old Autolite 4100, which is basically two 2100 2 bbl carbs together. It is a good carb and is probably in the same league as the Eddy. Simple, reliable, and easy to tune. It still has the Holley style power valve and accelerator pump, but uses metal instead of gaskets to hold the fuel in.
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Hey Guys! Brake and fuel line are repaired and since the weather was so nice at the weekend, I decided to drive it instead of working on it.
I have a timing light now. But the problem is, I can’t reach the screw that holds the radiator in place. The A/C compressor is blocking everything. At least I was able to check the initial timing and It was around 8 degree (factory settings). So I am guessing the vacuum advance is too high? I can adjust the sensitivity from the vacuum advance with turning a screw inside the advance capsule, right? But A/C compressor would also be in the way…
Since A/C is not working and I don’t need it, I was thinking about just rip the compressor and the big hoses out to have more space in general and be able to reach the screw to loosen the radiator. Is it possible to just rip it out? Do I have to seal something?
Thanks!
Jonas
I have a timing light now. But the problem is, I can’t reach the screw that holds the radiator in place. The A/C compressor is blocking everything. At least I was able to check the initial timing and It was around 8 degree (factory settings). So I am guessing the vacuum advance is too high? I can adjust the sensitivity from the vacuum advance with turning a screw inside the advance capsule, right? But A/C compressor would also be in the way…
Since A/C is not working and I don’t need it, I was thinking about just rip the compressor and the big hoses out to have more space in general and be able to reach the screw to loosen the radiator. Is it possible to just rip it out? Do I have to seal something?
Thanks!
Jonas
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Radiator? Do you mean distributor?
As for the timing, you check initial timing with the vacuum advance line pulled and plugged. But, if it is connected to ported vacuum, meaning it has no vacuum at idle, then your 8 degrees is fine and there's no reason to adjust the vacuum. In fact, unless you know what you doing then you should leave the vacuum adjustment along.
And, you shouldn't just open up the A/C lines as venting Freon to the atmosphere is illegal and dangerous. But, I see no reason to do that in your case as I think the timing is fine.
As for the timing, you check initial timing with the vacuum advance line pulled and plugged. But, if it is connected to ported vacuum, meaning it has no vacuum at idle, then your 8 degrees is fine and there's no reason to adjust the vacuum. In fact, unless you know what you doing then you should leave the vacuum adjustment along.
And, you shouldn't just open up the A/C lines as venting Freon to the atmosphere is illegal and dangerous. But, I see no reason to do that in your case as I think the timing is fine.
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Yes, I meant the distributor… 
I measured the Initial timing without the vacuum hose connected, since it comes directly out of the intake and have vacuum at idle.
As soon as I connect it, idle changes and I get pinging on highway and after slowly removing throttle from WOT. So I thought I turn the screw in the advance capsule slowly to lesser vacuum advance, until the pinging stops? Or am I on the wrong road?
I will try to make the numbers on the harmonic balancer more visible with a marker, and then try to read out how much advance I will get.
Ok seems like the stuff inside the A/C System is pretty beasty :/.
But I could get it emptied in a car service shop, right?
I measured the Initial timing without the vacuum hose connected, since it comes directly out of the intake and have vacuum at idle.
As soon as I connect it, idle changes and I get pinging on highway and after slowly removing throttle from WOT. So I thought I turn the screw in the advance capsule slowly to lesser vacuum advance, until the pinging stops? Or am I on the wrong road?
I will try to make the numbers on the harmonic balancer more visible with a marker, and then try to read out how much advance I will get.
Ok seems like the stuff inside the A/C System is pretty beasty :/.
But I could get it emptied in a car service shop, right?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yes, an A/C shop will empty the system and then you can pull the parts off. But, doesn't it get hot in DE? Why pull it? They make a distributor wrench that should get you access to the bolt w/o pulling the A/C. I can supply a pic if you'd like.
On the timing issue, make sure you aren't advanced any further than about 8 degrees before you go changing the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance is there for economy only, but the initial timing, as well as the mechanical or centrifugal advance are there for power. So you need to get the initial timing set first. Then, w/o the vacuum connected, check that you get no pinging with just the mechanical kicking in. And that the power seems correct. If so and then it still pings with the vacuum connected it is time to back the vacuum off some. But, not all vacuum advances are adjustable, so you might have to get another one if yours isn't.
On the timing issue, make sure you aren't advanced any further than about 8 degrees before you go changing the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance is there for economy only, but the initial timing, as well as the mechanical or centrifugal advance are there for power. So you need to get the initial timing set first. Then, w/o the vacuum connected, check that you get no pinging with just the mechanical kicking in. And that the power seems correct. If so and then it still pings with the vacuum connected it is time to back the vacuum off some. But, not all vacuum advances are adjustable, so you might have to get another one if yours isn't.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 801
Likes: 7
From: Toledo, Ohio
. Removing the A/C will hurt the value of the car... and you may want it if temperatures get over 100 degrees F around there this summer... actually, any time over about 80... might consider getting it fixed in a month or two...
. Part of the pinging problem is those engines were built by the factory with horrible 'engine quench' dimensions...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench
.
. Part of the pinging problem is those engines were built by the factory with horrible 'engine quench' dimensions...
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench
.
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Hello Guys! Good news.
After remarking the numbers on the balancer wheel to be able to read the numbers properly, I found out that the initial timing was actually 8° After TDC. After that it took me only 3 days, some PB Blaster, a pack of dry ice, a torch and countless strokes with the hammer to get the distributor finally moving a bit.
I then set it to 9° BTDC Initial.
Mechanical advance goes up to 22-24 BTDC (I got nothing to measure the rpm tho…)
If I add vac. advance in idle, timing goes up to 36° BTDC! I guess this is way to much, and my vacuum advance is broken, right?
Since I hammered this so much, I am planning to get a new distributor with the new intake and carb.
Right now I am driving it with 11° BTDC and it feels like it have doubled the power!
Of course the Vac advance is disconnected at the moment. Right now the distributor is stuck again. I will try to advance the timing more, to find out where it starts pinging and then turn it back a few degrees.
When I go for the intake swap, I will probably remove the A/C compressor and plug the lines. When I take it back to Germany I will restore or rebuild the car completely anyway and then I will find another solution for the A/C where the compressor does not sit on top of the engine and blocks everything.
Cheers
After remarking the numbers on the balancer wheel to be able to read the numbers properly, I found out that the initial timing was actually 8° After TDC. After that it took me only 3 days, some PB Blaster, a pack of dry ice, a torch and countless strokes with the hammer to get the distributor finally moving a bit.
I then set it to 9° BTDC Initial.
Mechanical advance goes up to 22-24 BTDC (I got nothing to measure the rpm tho…)
If I add vac. advance in idle, timing goes up to 36° BTDC! I guess this is way to much, and my vacuum advance is broken, right?
Since I hammered this so much, I am planning to get a new distributor with the new intake and carb.
Right now I am driving it with 11° BTDC and it feels like it have doubled the power!
Of course the Vac advance is disconnected at the moment. Right now the distributor is stuck again. I will try to advance the timing more, to find out where it starts pinging and then turn it back a few degrees.
When I go for the intake swap, I will probably remove the A/C compressor and plug the lines. When I take it back to Germany I will restore or rebuild the car completely anyway and then I will find another solution for the A/C where the compressor does not sit on top of the engine and blocks everything.
Cheers