I'll bet you have much better chances of getting a deal on a larger unit than a smaller one Doug. As long as its not too big...............Everybody wants the little ones and it keeps the used prices sky high.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. To melt it more do I turn up the power or just burn more stick on it?

I have been called a Neanderthal before and I hit it hard, so we'll take a grinder and clean the splatter and spray it and call this one good.

 

Higher power will melt into the two sides more. If one material takes more heat that the other then you can tilt the stick so it aims at that one more than the other so you don't burn through the material that takes less heat. You can also move the arc up the heavier material a bit to get good heat into it and then pull back down to get the fill.

Just a matter of practice and learning what the arc can do. Working on heavier materials is easier as you don't get burn through. MIG'ing thin exhaust tube can be an exercise in frustration, I've built a few header sets from mandrel bends, lots of fun.

Flap wheels are awesome for weld cleanup too, it's a disc for the grinder that looks like little layers of sandpaper.

 

I used to have a Kubota G2160 with 60" deck and blower that I used when we were in the country. Loved that little thing. Between that and the ATV w/plow I never used the IH574 w/dbl auger blower after that. The 900' of snow fence helped too. When we moved I sold it for more than I paid for it.

 

changing the polarity on the mig welder can help too. usually the flow is to deposit electrons ONTO the target surface.. but if you reverse it, the intensity drops and burn thru is less apt to happen.
also works with stick welding

 

MIG welding, torch is positive and ground clamp is negative. Don't experiment with this polarity unless you want to waste time.


Flux core welding, electrode negative ground clamp positive. You can experiment with this one, but you will probably end up back like this.

 

I'll have to check if my Lincoln can do that. Thanks.

 

I think I'm a little ways away form polarity, but it's all good to know. I was worried about burning through the bucket. Feel like I'm back in High School, but we only had wood shop not metal shop. This really is a blast. Can't believe I let one bad experience keep me away from it for 30 years.

Got some 4" flapper wheels and some paint, along with some flat back hooks. There are two flat plates on the bucket in line with the piston tilt arms and going to put one on each side. I'm going to work with the MIG gun and drop the bucket in the garage and try it.

I checked...the gas is mixed argon and co2. Got a couple extra hooks and I'm gonna practice putting them on some scrap until I can do better than my stick job. Thanks for all of the pointers. Results to follow.

 

Carl, practice makes perfect !!
Beings the loader tractor is new to you, I thought I would throw a friendly word of caution out there. Those "piston tilt arms" are referred to as cylinder rods.
The friendly part is...... Don't ever get weld spatter on the chrome, or throw a log chain over them and bind it down.
I am self taught on the various processes of welding, but always enjoy learning something new.
Enjoy your awesome tractor.

 

I went to the School of Experience for welding, my elective courses were "The Joys of Welding Flash", "Torch Skin Burns" and my favorite "Welding Splatter Inside the WorkBoot"

 

For purposes of financing, we are looking to buy new. They are offering 0 down and 0% for 60 months. I will visit on my next set of days off this coming week and see what the numbers look like, and if they are reasonable, will take Jodi on my next Saturday off in two weeks from tomorrow to close it. If the numbers between the larger models and smaller ones are close enough, I will go larger. I have to bear in mind some of the smaller spaces I need to be able to use it though - such as stalls.

Today is the Day I give Rodney back his thread!

 

0% is tough to pass up Doug. Even if you don't need it, it always makes sense to take free money. If you do need it, better yet!! That's one thing that is keeping me thinking about the 450/JD option. 0% on the Deere and you can combine it with rebates too. Then again, I HATE payments.

Decisions decisions....

 

0% is good when you can use it WITH rebates. I always need to check the math though when they make you choose between rebates OR 0%. I have passed up the 0% before in lieu of good rebates, taken their crappy interest rate, and refinanced a week later at a much lower rate than offered with the rebates. I'll see what it looks like when the time comes.

I absolutely LOVE overkill, so my vote would always be the 450 when spending someone else's money! A SRW 350 would likely suffice just fine.

 

No its not. Enough of that nonsense!


At least on the 1 series, I saw JD offering 0% for up to 84 months around here. 7 years of free money! Never take their first offer and price out their competition. Even if you can't get rebates, if you can beat one dealer down more than the other you can still win! When dad got his x7 series I sat in the salesmans office with his completion's quote hidden in a x7 series brochure. When his numbers were higher I pulled out the other dealers quote. My dad told me he wanted to go hide in a corner from embarrassment. But he beat the other dealer. I get that from my moms father. He'd haggle anybody over anything. He took the 0% too, why not.


Carl, keep having fun with the welder. It is fun and only comes with practice. I've been down the same road as Steve. Wearing real (welding) gloves, long sleeves and such are good ideas. So is a good helmet. That is my next purchase. Still using grandpops old one, but have one on the radar.


Rodney, kick that cold and we want pics!

 

Yup! Sorry you feel bad, but glad you are making the trip anyway.