Running Warm
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Junior User
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Running Warm
So after a complete rad rebuild, which turned out to be 60% blocked I figured the truck would run much cooler and it does, to some extent. However I still find my self boiling coolant out the overflow hose. I checked the oil, and I have nothing mixing, water pump seems ok, with only minor play in the bearing. There was a lot of rust in the system when I flushed after rad rebuild. Am I safe to assume I most likely need to do a water pump since my fins are most likely gone and I am just not moving the coolant fast enough? At this Point I still don't have the temp gauge working, I guess I should fix that. The ports in my head's are blocked off, so I was going to use the port in the intake, since my heater has been blocked off. Anyone recall what the size is? 3/8th comes to mind for some reason.
Thanks
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Black Hills of SD
Have you tested or replaced the cap? A lot of times that's the only problem with coolant loss. Maybe you could up the pressure a little. Also the shroud is a key component to cooler running. Maybe you could add an electric pusher fan.
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Brand new 7psi cap. I bought one and rad shop gave me another one after the rebuild. I wish it was that easy, as for fan i have a twin electric setup that came out of a junk yard, Its a bit large for the rad but you can feel it sucking cold air from the front.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
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From: Black Hills of SD
Have you checked the timing? Not just base timing but what it's all in at? Also are you burping it? I always run an engine until the T-stat opens and it circulates, then top it off before putting the cap on. This gets rid of any trapped air.
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System has been burped, nose up in the driveway, run till thermostat opens up, I replaced it when i did the rad, so i was back to a known good state. I fear my stumble under low rpm's and load and this overheating issue may be related. Perhaps a cracked head / cracked head gasket, i hope its just a gasket. Plugs looked great when I pulled them though. Timing its about 6degrees BTDC. We just set to the points which were slightly off, and it does run better, makes more power, but the stumble is still there. There was alot of rust in the system when I flushed it. Could have been from water pump rusting away. The PO pulled it non running from someones yard, and patched it up as best he could, got it drivable but it was overheating for him. He flushed system, put in new thermostat and said it didn't overheat anymore, However I beg to differ.
At this Point its one of 3 things based on my limited knowledge
Running lean, either because of dizzy or carb being off.
Water Pump is not cycling enough fluid
Cracked Head/Gasket, There is evidence on the passenger side between numbers 2 and 3 of some overflow running down the side of the block. It has never leaked there though since I have owned the truck. Oil looks good I check it quite often.
At this Point its one of 3 things based on my limited knowledge
Running lean, either because of dizzy or carb being off.
Water Pump is not cycling enough fluid
Cracked Head/Gasket, There is evidence on the passenger side between numbers 2 and 3 of some overflow running down the side of the block. It has never leaked there though since I have owned the truck. Oil looks good I check it quite often.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
Likes: 12
From: Black Hills of SD
I used to have a leak check kit, pretty inexpensive. You sucked air through a sintered bronze filter into a column of yellow fluid. If it turned blue, Carbon Monoxide was present. Or just use the sniffer from an exhaust gas analyzer.
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eman92082
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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