It wasn't complicated. I removes smaller peaces first: steps, flares, lights, bumper, tailgate, filler part. Then there're 8 bolts and that's it.

 

Yeah, I did mine with the bed off.

 

Just as easy with the bed on,... but you must be able to lift the metal bedsides to slip the new wood under the flanges.

 

You have to remove the bed. Without the wood, there is nothing to keep the sides and front from falling down. I disassembled the sides, removed the strips and then went from there. Depending on your geographical location and salt, you may need to replace or at least repair the frame rails for the bed.

 

 

nope, don't need to remove the bed.
The bed sides sit on the head crossmember and the tailgate crossmember.
unbolt the sides from the crossmembers and drop long screwdrivers in the bolt holes. now you can lift a side and slide the bed wood under the steed flange.

 

I don't know if the guys who never worked on these things know about what's being debated, but the problem is the wood around the edges of the floor fits UNDER the bed sides.

I found this out the hard way, I was just going to put the decking boards in the bed without routing the edges down. I found the front panel of the bed is setup for a certain thickness, and of course it's bolted to the sides so that sets the thickness there also. To make it all work out correctly I had to take a router and mill down the edges of the boards so they fit properly under the bed all the way around.

 

3/4" marine plywood fit under the steel flanges quite nicely. Like mentioned before just un bolt the sides from the crossmembers, and when you work on the left side, lift the left side wall (after you drop long screwdrivers in the holes (from side to crossmember)
Just did this about 3 months ago....

 

Gee Willikers this is beautiful

 

I think decking boards are 1 1/4" thick.

 

Nikmish, I was wanting to send you a PM but I don't have permission to send messages. I was curious what paint you used. My truck is that color red as well and needs to be repainted which is why I'm asking. It looks really nice and I'm in the process of redoing my bed right now.
Jason

 

He has not been on here since 2017 so sending a PM may not work.
Who is going to be doing the body and paint work, you are a shop?
If a shop they will have a paint they use and trying to get them change may not happen for a bunch of reasons.

Now if you are doing the body work & paint then you must have a place and the equipment and the know how (I hope).
What have you used in the past and how long ago was that?
I found when I did my truck a lot had changed since did body & paint work.

Also when our trucks were painted it was a single stage and todays paints a 2 & 3 stage, they may not have mix codes for our colors in any stage paint.
I was lucky I wanted single stage and the paint store (NAPA) were able to find mix codes for the 2 colors my truck factory was done in.
I was also building my truck as a nice driver and something I throw the weekly trash in to take to the dump so was not looking to go top of the line paint either.
So you need to check with the paint store to see what they can get for you that you can paint with.

As for the wood floor on the flare sides 80 to think it was 83? used planks and think 6 metal strips.
84 to 86 used 3 parts of plywood and 5? metal strips.
All of them painted the trucks body color.

Me I did not have the money to buy all the cross beams ($1000) then the wood (planks or ply), metal strips and all the hardware.
So I took the parts truck LB style side bed and cut the sides off, 1 side was crushed in the roll over.
Made it shorter and used the metal ribbed floor to replace the wood and I can use the bed and not worry of hurting it.



Yes it has working dual tanks using all factory parts from my parts truck.
Dave ----

 

Thanks for the detailed response. That is a beautiful truck you have. Mine is solid Maroonish red. I am essentially doing a full restoration trying to do as much myself as possible. Truck has not run for about 10 years. Overall body is in great shape but the bed and cab corners is where the majority of the rust is, although I have seen cab corners that are way worst.
I originally came in here to see what others have used to replace the bed strips and wood planks as I was looking at a complete bed kits. Mine does have 6 rails and separate wood planks, I've read where some beds appeared to be plywood.
I have someone that is going to be working on engine that use to race inline sixes, which is what engine I have. Engine build will be aggressive as truck will be something I can have fun with and not used to haul anything. My parents bought me this truck when I turned 16 and that was 26 years ago.

​​​​​​I will be asking questions on the best way to repair the rust. Not sure if someone else will paint or me. Does anyone know the original color codes? I'm sure I can look them up.

 

Start your own post of your project as we all would love to follow what you are doing and can ask questions about anything in there.
You will get all the help you need then.

Thanks on the truck,
4 year cab off frame rebuild. I had to replace floors, rockers, cab corners, lower rear door posts and the lower left inner & outer door just to name a few things I did. Yes I did all the work my self but I have the skills, equipment and space to do it all.
See the link in my sig to my project.
Dave ----

 

Will do thanks!